Having a shop do cooling flush and both diff's flush I have toyota red coolant already what oils will be best for the diff's and what weight thanks 2000 Toyota LandCruiser
Front and rear diff weight and brand opinion 2000 LandCruiser
- Thread starter ExtremeCruiser92
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Quality 75W-90 synthetic in all three.
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- #3
For got to mention I am in southeastern Texas it stays pretty hot here if that makes a difference and I make a 150 miles a day commute round trip for 4 days a week for work
Buy a motorcycle for the commute.
I just use 75-90 conventional. I don't mind changing it out more often since it's pretty simple.
I use 80w90 conventional. 5 gal bucket like $50-60, maybe cheaper with coupons. Easy to change. Use if for 80 and 100 series front/rear diffs. I use mobil 1 syn 75w90 for transfer. If you go conventional 80w90 or use a 5 gal bucket then get a pump. Got mine from amazon and made the job much cleaner and easier.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I agree with OrengonLC^
Synthetic 75W-90 will stand up to high heat without breaking down like a conventional lube. It will also give good low temp protection, for cold mornings. The HWY miles are the best miles, you can increased intervals between changes if you like. You'll find the rear differential will look pretty good after the second flush with synthetic at 30K to 40K miles. The front diff & T-case will start turning dark at around 20K miles. The synthetic's like M1 EP have some nice seal modifiers, that keeps those seal tight.
I use M1 throughout for all lubes (oil, grease & ATF). It may or may not be the best. I just like being able to use one easy to find brand for all application in the 100, keeps it simple. One exception; I can't find #1 grease in M1 for axle bearing & bushing.
Synthetic 75W-90 will stand up to high heat without breaking down like a conventional lube. It will also give good low temp protection, for cold mornings. The HWY miles are the best miles, you can increased intervals between changes if you like. You'll find the rear differential will look pretty good after the second flush with synthetic at 30K to 40K miles. The front diff & T-case will start turning dark at around 20K miles. The synthetic's like M1 EP have some nice seal modifiers, that keeps those seal tight.
I use M1 throughout for all lubes (oil, grease & ATF). It may or may not be the best. I just like being able to use one easy to find brand for all application in the 100, keeps it simple. One exception; I can't find #1 grease in M1 for axle bearing & bushing.
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VERY obviously.Moped??? Obviously you've never been to Texas
Though it perhaps might pass muster in Austin. 
I found it online, but only a couple of sources. Easiest for me was to order a couple of cartridges from a neighbor who's an Amsoil dealer. I'm using their NGLI #1 grease fortified with moly.
hth
Steve
I am running mobil 1 synthetic 75w-90 with LS in all three. I swapped out the old fluid I September of last year. I seems to run a little smoother. The biggest noticable difference is all the attention I'm getting from the ladies. I'm not sure if it is the synthetic or the LS, but all I can say is wow. Lol...jk
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Got all the fluids flushed and changed out $580 all synthetic I love my job I am glad auto techs love there's I don't mind doing my own work but Gatta keep the locals in business
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- #14
Lol at the moped comment I am well compensated for my commute and plus with the LandCruiser as long as I do my routine maintenance I will never be stranded and will make that drive very comfortable just more stops at the gas station
2001LC
SILVER Star
My Amsoil guy said I was the only one in ten years to order #1. Now that's gone I'm just switching up to #2, same all the shops.
Hi guys... By introduction, I own an oil company and we distribute Mobil Lubricants. Been in the business for 25 years. Owned 3 Landcruisers. Why are you using a NLGI grade 1 grease? Unless you are storing the grease in a freezer there is really no reason to use a #1. The grade refers to how easily the grease can be pumped. One solution is to use a #2 and store your carts in a warm garage, or inside the truck. What matters most is that you use a grease with the correct viscosity which typically would be an ISO vis 220 for general auto use. Some #1 greases will also be of a lighter oil vis which will lead to increased wear if used. Mobil 1 does not offer an NLGI#1 because there is literally no demand in the automotive world for it. Mobil does manufacture some #1 for industrial applications, but even then there are very few apps that really need a #1. Also, Moly grease is not recommended for wheel bearings. Feel free to hit me up with any questions you guys have about lubricants, fuel, or coolants.
I'm using #1 since that's what the FSM says to use. I do understand virtually a zero demand. I've half a tube left of the #1 Amsoil, when it's gone, I'll change to M1 which I use with u-joints and the driveshaft slip yokes on the LX. I use M1 for all other lubricants in the LX and LC, large and small Kubota tractors, hay baler and cart, and on and on...
Steve
would you suggest NGLI #2 w/moly for driveline?
why wouldn't you use moly in wheel bearings?
Grease that contains moly will leave a film residue on the surface which provides a layer of lubrication when the grease has worn away. It is a great choice for general chassis lubrication. But not for wheel bearings. The moly film will build up on the surfaces and cause bearing failures. Therefore we do not recommend moly greases for auto wheel bearings.
That's interesting. Grease is made of 3 things: Oil, Additives, and Thickener. A #1 grease just has less thickener than a #2. It has less thickener so that it can be pumped easier in climates where the greasing equipment is kept in a cold environment. The grade has absolutely no effect on the ability of the grease to lubricate. The oil is what lubricates. You will be fine with M1, and if you check the data sheet for amsoil you may find that the oil viscosity is the same as M1 (ISO 220)... Good luck
