Found the Engine Problem

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Do you think the oil pump slowed down the volume of oil? It has oil through all the mains and rod journles. It has the metal lapping compound throughout all the rod bearings as well as the #2 & #3 main bearing. #1 and #4 are clear.
 
I think with the metal all over the place is normal. once the motor started to come apart metal made its way into the oil pump then that moved it everywhere else thus further destroying the engine and creating more metal flake untill it finally had enough and came apart and stopped moving all together.
 
Head Gasket

I was cleaning up the head tonight in preperation to take to the machine shop.

I noticed something that does not really make sense to me.

The top picture is the head with the gasket.

The bottom picture is the head without the gasket but cleaned up. There are five water jacket holes across the top of the head clearly blocked by the gasket. Top meaning the top of the picture.

Is this the way it is suppose to be?
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Extra Engine

I pulled my extra 2F engine down tonight. I'm now glad I did.

The intake/exhaust manifold gasket was blown in a few places. This was caused by the heat exchange riser flapper thingee shaft coming undone. The flap was just laying in there blocking the exhaust from coming out. I also found two bent pushrods.
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Pistons

I looked at the pistons out of the cooked engine and noticed that they were domed slightly. The ones in my builder 2F are flat. Any advantages or differences? The domed ones will not fit in the builder engine, too big in diameter. The heads look axactly the same.

As mentioned, my biulder engine has flat pistons. #1,#2 & #6 have a 46 cast into them, not stamped but cast. #3, #4 & #5 have a 33 cast into them. Any differences?
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I was cleaning up the head tonight in preperation to take to the machine shop.

I noticed something that does not really make sense to me.

The top picture is the head with the gasket.

The bottom picture is the head without the gasket but cleaned up. There are five water jacket holes across the top of the head clearly blocked by the gasket. Top meaning the top of the picture.

Is this the way it is suppose to be?

Mine was very similar, made me wonder as well.
 
I pulled my extra 2F engine down tonight. I'm now glad I did.

The intake/exhaust manifold gasket was blown in a few places. This was caused by the heat exchange riser flapper thingee shaft coming undone. The flap was just laying in there blocking the exhaust from coming out. I also found two bent pushrods.

Did you separate the intake manifold from the exhaust manifold? If you did you'll have a clear view of what's going on with the heat riser stuff. From the bottom of the ex. manifold it does look like that thing is just blocking all the exhaust, when in fact it's just rerouting it to heat the intake up until the engine is at a warmer temp, then it spins and dumps it straight out.
 
looks like there was a serious oil flow problem... My guess is that it all stemmed from the main bearing not being lined up correctly. do the drillings in the crank let oil flow to the #2 and 3 pistons from anywhere else other than the main bearing that was in wrong?

how long was it running before it stopped?
 
The pistons are aftermarket high-compression parts. Combined w/ the overbore and the head mill, the CR was around 10 or 11 to 1. The engine was detonated constantly which beat the hell out of the rings and gradually hammer/extruded the rod bearings.
 
It's normal for the head gasket to cover one or two of the holes on the head.
 
The water passages blocked by the gasket is normal. The passages are there to remove the core sand when casting the head. Restrictions in the gasket are used to direct coolant flow for optimal cooling.

If detonation caused the demise of this engine, you may be able to see some evidence of it in the sheet metal "grommet" that is wrapped around the cylinder openings in the head gasket. A normal grommet (or armor) will have a nice smooth curve from the tool that was used to form it and crimp it in place. Detonation can impact the armor enough to deform it. The smooth curve can look more like someone crushed the edge of it with a pair of pliers. Sometimes it will even crack in the small area exposed to the explosion in the cyl.
 
Is there a plug in an oil galley in front of the block that may restict the flow of oil if it is screwed in too far?

I'm thinking it ran fine idling around and at low RPM. When the PO stood on the stupid pedal the demand for oil exceded the supply.

I jsut don't want to make and same stupid mistakes as the PO on the 2F I'm building right now.
 
I looked at the pistons out of the cooked engine and noticed that they were domed slightly. The ones in my builder 2F are flat. Any advantages or differences? The domed ones will not fit in the builder engine, too big in diameter. The heads look axactly the same.

As mentioned, my biulder engine has flat pistons. #1,#2 & #6 have a 46 cast into them, not stamped but cast. #3, #4 & #5 have a 33 cast into them. Any differences?

Can't answer your questions about the casting numbers. As far as the flat vs. domed pistons, the domed pistons will give you a higher compression ratio, equalling a more power, but you may have to run higher grade gas (though I have to run premium in my 3f already or it pings pulling hills). They won't fit in your builder engine because your builder is probably stock, and the domed pistons out of your dead motor or probably .030 over (.030 over is pretty standard, could be more or less, depending what was needed at the time of rebuild.).
 
Is there a plug in an oil galley in front of the block that may restict the flow of oil if it is screwed in too far?

There's a brass nozzle to oil the timing gears that if screwed in too far will cause a leak. The main bearings get oiled almost directly from the oil filter. From the mains it goes right to the rod bearings.

The mains look good and the rod bearings look like hell, right? I too vote for detonation.
 

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