Foreign body in the rear differential (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Threads
13
Messages
81
Location
Boise Idaho
Hey mud community, I was doing a baseline on my 2002LC, I was filling the rear differential when a 2'' piece of 1/4'' tubing shot into the housing....
I assume, like me, you all would like to know how something like this happens. I cut the tip of the gear oil cap and jammed the piece of tubing in that hole. This allowed me to hold the bottle up at an angle and squeeze the oil into the fill hole. But because it's so cold the viscosity of the oil was requiring me to squeeze the bottle pretty hard and the damn tube shot out and into the fill hole.
Question is......How involved is removing the front side of the rear differential. I don't see any posts pertaining to rebuilding the rear differential. If anyone has suggestions I would be VERY appreciative.
Thanks in advance
 
Go fishing.

E69B77FA-65C1-4C84-A60A-20FC19FEA0F9.jpeg
 
Use that tool, a borescope camera, and a set of needle nose pliers. Can be had for under $50 to use with your tablet or phone from Amazon (borescope cam).

Those 3 tools should help you solve your issue.
 
A piece of rubber or plastic tubing? Personally, I'd drive it 500 miles and change the gear oil. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I'd guess the diff gears would just mash it to nothing.
 
I'd fish (or remove the cover if needed) to keep that out of my gears and bearings. A long hook shaped pick with a sharp tip might get it.
 
It should fall to the bottom and come out the drain - pull the plug ,drain and see what happens- feel around the inside edge of the drain and see if its there or close. If not refill and try again.
 
I did drain what was in there and no luck. I'm looking at the endoscope....might be helpful in the future, I am approaching 50:oops:
On another note, the grabber tool is stuck!!! Damn this project sucks. Should've been an easy 30 minute job. Famous last words!
 
A piece of rubber or plastic tubing? Personally, I'd drive it 500 miles and change the gear oil. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I'd guess the diff gears would just mash it to nothing.

I agree, let it roll. The gears will either chew the tube up or push it out of the way. I can't imagine any scenario in which the rubber tube being in there will cause any damage.

Jim
 
Try some small blasts of compressed air to try and get it to the bottom drain area.
 
Does anyone have experience pulling the dif. apart? Outside of the hassle and replacement of associated seals, what is involved with removing the front side? Is there any need to realign the gears or anything technical?
 
Does anyone have experience pulling the dif. apart? Outside of the hassle and replacement of associated seals, what is involved with removing the front side? Is there any need to realign the gears or anything technical?

Pretty big project. Both rear axles need to be pulled, that means rear brakes come off. The "front" is the 3rd member (holds diff gears and carrier) and must weigh at least 60lbs. I have made a fixture for my floor jack to support it when I remove mine. On other hand not sure you want to run it with the piece in there, could get in the diff seals and damage them, and if you have a rear locker there is more stuff that could be messed up. However if it is plastic and you are lucky the gears will grind it up and it pours out the bottom when you dump the oil later.
To get the the grabber out, Block the other wheels, jack one of the rear wheels up, release the parking brake and turn that tire gently back and forth, while pulling on grabber.

Edit: Other than dealing with the heavy 3rd member, no fancy gear setup to deal with, 3rd member is all self contained. As far as seals the inner axle seals are probably okay and reusable if you are careful, the pinion seal is in 3rd member and so you don't deal with that. The outer axle seal is probably fine and just have to monitor it as in rare cases it backs when reinstalling the axles. If that outer seal backs out it is a royal pain, as a diff shop will need to press the bearing stack off to reseat it.
 
Last edited:
Pretty big project. Both rear axles need to be pulled, that means rear brakes come off. The "front" is the 3rd member (holds diff gears and carrier) and must weigh at least 60lbs. I have made a fixture for my floor jack to support it when I remove mine. On other hand not sure you want to run it with the piece in there, could get in the diff seals and damage them, and if you have a rear locker there is more stuff that could be messed up. However if it is plastic and you are lucky the gears will grind it up and it pours out the bottom when you dump the oil later.
To get the the grabber out, Block the other wheels, jack one of the rear wheels up, release the parking brake and turn that tire gently back and forth, while pulling on grabber.

Edit: Other than dealing with the heavy 3rd member, no fancy gear setup to deal with, 3rd member is all self contained. As far as seals the inner axle seals are probably okay and reusable if you are careful, the pinion seal is in 3rd member and so you don't deal with that. The outer axle seal is probably fine and just have to monitor it as in rare cases it backs when reinstalling the axles. If that outer seal backs out it is a royal pain, as a diff shop will need to press the bearing stack off to reseat it.
Skidoo thanks for the reply. That answers my questions. I'm going to try and get the grabber out tomorrow.

Thanks to all the replies! This place is great
 
Success! From the drain hike I was able to pass a bent bicycle spoke to hook the grabber tool and dislodge it. What a pain. Fished around for the little tube... I'll have to wait until I have the endoscope. Thanks all
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom