I know the fording depth for the 200 is 700 mm, and I can't imagine the waters we crossed this weekend in Louisiana were more than 500 mm. My question is whether there is any flushing of fluids or other maintenance I should tend to after such driving? Thanks is advance.
Fording flood waters
- Thread starter shelby95
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MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
If the diff breathers go underwater, you'll need to service the oul
Doesn't ARB or Pirahanna make diff breather extension kits?
Go to Tundra Talk and there will be threads on there on how to make a $10 diff breather yourself. Quite simple to do.
I haven't forded any water in our LC yet but... I burned up the alternator in my Tundra in water about 2' deep. Numerous reports of this happening on the Tundra forums. I would suspect there is no difference between the two alternators. The low placement of the alternator on the passenger side front of the 5.7 engine makes this susceptible to water damage. Luckily mine was still under factory warranty and it was replaced for free!
I haven't forded any water in our LC yet but... I burned up the alternator in my Tundra in water about 2' deep. Numerous reports of this happening on the Tundra forums. I would suspect there is no difference between the two alternators. The low placement of the alternator on the passenger side front of the 5.7 engine makes this susceptible to water damage. Luckily mine was still under factory warranty and it was replaced for free!
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Very easy to fix.
Cut off breather, buy brass or PVC 1/4" male/male nipple, add new breather line (some people recommend fuel line), and then cap the end of the new line with the old breather. Hold everything together with stainless steel hose clamps.
Cut off breather, buy brass or PVC 1/4" male/male nipple, add new breather line (some people recommend fuel line), and then cap the end of the new line with the old breather. Hold everything together with stainless steel hose clamps.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't failures of the secondary air injection pump caused by getting water into the system while fjording?
I've read on Tundra forums that those just go out on their own - not saying water couldn't speed that death up but those are weak links
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Thanks to everyone for their input. I am a bit confounded and may just have them flushed. The top of the rear diff breather sits at about 25 in (630 or so mm) and I don't believe the water got all that deep, but I would rather not ignore a potential problem.
usmcHOG, my wife got home today and said the 200 had trouble starting today. Go figure. It did hesitate when I tried. While running the battery read about 14 volts, so I think the alternator is fine. Interestingly, the voltage across the terminals was 10.36 with the ignition off. It seems impossible that this is enough to turn the engine over although it will. With all the electrical gizmos that come on this vehicle, is it possible there is a parasitic drain? FWIW the date on the battery is 11/12.
Anyone care to weigh in on this?
Thanks again.
usmcHOG, my wife got home today and said the 200 had trouble starting today. Go figure. It did hesitate when I tried. While running the battery read about 14 volts, so I think the alternator is fine. Interestingly, the voltage across the terminals was 10.36 with the ignition off. It seems impossible that this is enough to turn the engine over although it will. With all the electrical gizmos that come on this vehicle, is it possible there is a parasitic drain? FWIW the date on the battery is 11/12.
Anyone care to weigh in on this?
Thanks again.
It is my understanding that the 4Runner comes stock with a front diff breather located in the engine compartment where the rear is just the one way valve on top of the diff body. Is the 200 the same way? In other words does one only need to worry about the rear diff or would I have to address the front too? What about the transfer case? Thanks!
Looked for some more info on this but couldn't find. Specifically, at what heights are the different breathers? Which are most vulnerable?
On the 2013 LC
I think you might want to replace that battery asap...
come on guys...can someone in the know tell us which diffs are vulnerable in the LC??? Thanks
kling-on
Kool Arrow
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If you get deeper then the axle tubes you should always at least ck the fluid to make sure it ok
fjording?
Fjording is generally slightly deeper than crossing a crik......
It's a Norwegian thing.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
The front and rear diffs, along with transmission and transfer case are extended from the factory.
Toyota uses a ball and spring detent cap that acts as a one way valve. A common misconception about extending breathers is that people think the top of the breather tube lets in water all that time. Really, the breather tube allows for pressure to escape when heat building in the components because of driving. The issue comes when your drive train cools rapidly, like hitting cold water from a crossing, then on normal breathers it sucks air in through the breather, but in a water crossing, you may have water above the breather.
But with the lowest breather, which is the rear, already being extended to the body (unlike every other toyota rear diff which doesn't extend the breather at all, and sits on the axle housing itself) you would need to put water higher than you tire to maybe create a problem of sucking in water. And that's only if the spring in the breather fails.
It's like a safari snorkel, I've had quite a few of them in the past, but I won't add one to my 200 for my current situation. They are awesome with the desert, but even if I extend the air intake, there are still a ton of items that don't like water, and will kill the motor just the same in deep water crossing. Like our fuse box, which is the at the same height our front differential, transmission and transfer case breathers are at.
