Forced to Start my Buildup Early (1 Viewer)

[Mr. Notorious]

What's missing here?

lol... My plan was to swap in an 80 or 60 series rear axle, and toss in my center section. I'm popping open the case tomorrow AM and see if the ARB is damaged. Then try to identify the gear ratio (in there when I bought the truck). Then pray that 80 series rear came with this ratio. Then try and see if my ARB will work... Anything wrong with using factory FJ80 rear locker?

I want more width out of the rear, doing a slight stretch out the rear, and tossing my rear wheel spacers (1.5" each) upfront to make up the difference. As for suspension, will be an independent 3 link with coil overs front and rear. I just have to figure out what to do with my rear AUX tank, but for now I can pull it and run off the factory for now.

I have a '67 FJ40 with 35's. For the drivetrain I have a built SBC with SM465 tranny adapted to a ealy 70's 3 spd toyota case I believe. Which brings up another question, is there any way to remove that big parking brake drum in the rear of the t-case? It kills ground clearance and my cable's broke anyways.

So yeah basically I've been tossed into this project much sooner than I wanted, which means I haven't done as much research as I'd like. Please feel free to critique, complain, help, suggest, or whatever. Thanks.

 

[incogrhino]

I gotta pull my rear diff apart in the morning to.Atleast I'm not alone now.

 

[projektdotnet]

word of advice don't post any MSPaint Mockups in hardcore that's for sure!

 

[Isotel]

was the rear pinion fine or Course spline? Course would make it a 4:11 gear set.. Same as a stock 80! using an 80 factory locker is fine, but out of pure brute strenght id keep the arb, and find a 60 housing and shafts.. then you dont have to worry about the hub/driveplate studs, or an e-locker failure..

sounds like a good plan!

 

[Mr. Notorious]

was the rear pinion fine or Course spline? Course would make it a 4:11 gear set.. Same as a stock 80! using an 80 factory locker is fine, but out of pure brute strenght id keep the arb, and find a 60 housing and shafts.. then you dont have to worry about the hub/driveplate studs, or an e-locker failure..

sounds like a good plan!

There was 10 splines, I assume thats coarse? Is that why it broke?

ARB's toast as well as the removable third member. I'm fighting to rip out the pinion. Prying open the thirdmembers crack. Can anyone think of an easy easy way to get to the c-clips with an ARB. (I've never had an ARB before).

Can you explain the hub/driveplate studs?

I think I'd like to keep the e-locker for the rest of summer just to get some wheelin time in. That's assuming my front is 4.11's. I can just use a standard switch right? I don't have to grab the factory one, right?

Anything else wrong with going with the later model 80 series (I believe after 93?)? After this incident I like the full float and disc brakes. With full float I could have pulled the shafts and driveshaft and drive back to the shop in fwd instead of waiting in the rain (no tops or doors) waiting for a tow truck.

Thanks for the help. Since I'm going with 80 series rear, I'm thinking about using the spring buckets and run a linear coil in the rear instead of coil over. That way I don't have to put hoops in the bed, or chop the frame up. We'll see how it plays out.

haha no msPaint here. Too hard for me to use... just kidding...

 

[bustanutley]

FJ 80 rear e-lockers suck, you’ll have to get a custom shaft made with double the spline length cogged into it. I don’t like the way they work, you’ll end up twisting the splines on said shaft, then it is a major PITA to get apart.

Like you the stock parking brake made me angry, so I thru the parking break drum in a lath and turned off the drum. Now I just have a flange, I am much happier now.

 

[Isotel]

THe Full floats have Studs that hold on the Drive plates.. These Tend to be a point of failure on the FZJ rear axles.. That and the spline twisting that zach mentioned..

id sell the e-locked axle for $1000 or so and build an FJ60 rear.. Even an Aussie locker is probably better off than the 80 setup..

Yes Course spline is why it broke.. all 78 and up cruisers are fine spline, and are a bit stronger..

 

[Mr. Notorious]

Thanks for the tip bust for the parking brake, I'll remember that...

okay for the e-lockers I need a custom shaft, I assume we're talking driveshaft here? So instead of a flange pinion yoke like normal it's a slip yoke? Am I getting this right?

Isn't a 60 rear just 3" wider than a stock 40? In my 40 right now, I needed to widen the rear 3" (using 1.5" wheel spacers) just for it to match the front track width. Is that normal?

So you guys prefer a 60 rear over a 80? I was sold with the full float and disc brakes...

Do 60 series have any cheap aftermarket support for full float and or disc brakes? how's their t-case compared to mine? Any years I should look for or stay away from?

Fought with it again today, I don't know if the case is tweaked or what. But I couldn't get either of those pins to come out to push the axles in to get to the c-clips. Am I skipping a step or something?


like I said before, sorry for all the questions, just got tossed into this before I could do as much reading as I would have liked.

 

[bustanutley]

I was talking about the axle shaft, I was under the impression you wanted to put the e-locker third into the fj60 housing, in the case that you are just running the axle nothing traumatic needs to happen, but I still wouldn't run one as I have never seen the long spline axle come out of my buddies ride that wasn't twisted. This is what the shaft looks like

PS everything you need to know is in the tech links.

Why are you so pumped on full float? Just to not have c-clips? Full float doesn't really make any difference in strength unless you are carrying ALOT of weight. You'll end up lugging around an axle that is 50% heavier than it needs to be. Disc break conversion are easy enough.

As far as width, i'm running 40"s with fj60 axles and 1.5" spacer and am happy with the width, I can turn full lock without rubbing on my outboarded springs.

60 series t-case is called split case, and you will need to jump thru some hoops to make it work with your drive train, you either use a 6" adapter from from AA or a crawlerbox that ends up the same length, toy box, or np203.

 

[Mr. Notorious]

I'm set on full float because if a shaft breaks, I could simply pull the shaft, flip on the locker, and drive out. No need to carry spares. Or in this case, I could have pulled both shafts, and driven home in FWD instead of waiting for a tow truck in the rain for an hour since without shafts and a driveshaft nothing would have been spinning. I'm not argueing, just point out some facts, don't get the wrong idea.

So your saying with the wider stance the longer shaft is a serious weak point to consider?

Anyone want to add anything? I'm stuck here...

 

[too tall]

Full floaters aren't that great imho I 've had them in three of my rigs and semi float seem to stand up to abuse better .As for what you are missing from the first photo , I believe an antiwrap bar might have saved that pinion . If you do break a semi float axle and have disk brakes on the back the calipers will hold the axle on long enough to get you off the trail . full floaters are expensive and sometimes hard to find parts for. Especially 45 and 60 series ones . I vote for a 60 rear end w/ disks until you break an axle then upgrade to poly performance chromoly rears . Better money spent and less repeated work in the end. just my opinion though ... everyone has to find their own way !
P.S. how do you know the ARB is wrecked if you haven't even gotten the clips out?

 

[bustanutley]

too tall you stole the words out of my mouth.

Another thought for you, if you are considering a different t-case and think a centered output case suits your needs better, you could have a diamond housing made to the dimensions of an IFS yota rear and have the center sized to house a Cruiser third, run IFS shafts, although they are semi float they have the bearings pressed onto the shafts and don't run c-clips driving on a broken shaft brings no drama. Poly pro also makes chromoly shafts for this application.

 

[Mr. Notorious]

Thanks,

Too tall, I can see the carrier itself is cracked/smashed in. It actually even bent one of the bolts that holds in the pins in. Maybe thats why I'm having such a hard time getting the pins out.

Why is the longs side of the 80 more prone to twisting over the 60? Because it's longer or is it weaker?

I got a price for a 80 rear with locker for $500, I thought that was pretty dang good right?

I tossed around the idea of throwing a d300 tcase and a centered rear but tossed it out, too much to dive into right now.

 

[bustanutley]

The way the fj80 locker works the shaft with the long splines sees forces from both sides of the carrier ending in twisting the shaft right at the center of the splines.

 

[Mr. Notorious]

I see... If I was to throw an ARB in there, can I use the factory shafts? And I assume this problem is cured with any non-factory locker?

 

[bustanutley]

I assume an ARB would work, but I don't know for sure, call ARB

 

[Tapage]

In all cases you can go sure and buy a poly performance comoly rear 60 axles ( also are available belive for 80 series rear ) and keep your 60 ARB ( believe RD08 ? )

I trust in SF axles .. !

 

[Mr. Notorious]

Well I picked up the 80 series rear this morning. We'll see how it goes. Down the road I'll probably swap out the center section with a non-locker one and stuff in another ARB. What a beast this thing is. Going to start cutting off the bracketry tomorrow and get into the brakes. Has all new hard lines and emergency brake cables already.

Now I have to find some literature on getting the locker to work.

Also, I need to figure out what to do with my second AUX gas tank as I'd like to do a clean stretch as well. The 350 will suck the little tank under the passenger seat dry in no time.