Fluid Coupling Fan (1 Viewer)

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Mar 13, 2003
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I can't get my fluid coupling fan to turn with resistance when the motor is hot and shut off.
Should it trun with resistance when the motor is hot and turned off? The manual doesn't show this test. It says to look for leaks.
On my trip I went through 100f temps with AC on full with a full vehicle at 80+ mph. When up steep grades at 4500rpms. The temp guage never moved. I replace the OEM thermostat last year and the rad is a couple years old.
 
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Are you so desperate for car maintenance that you're inventing problems :flipoff2:? If you don't have an overheating problem, why worry about it?

To actually answer your question, it sounds like it's working fine to me. The viscosity thins with heat.
 

MTNRAT

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Landtank, you sound good to go. I was having ISSUES, hense the wholesale change. I can still move the new fan fluid coupling with not much resistance, but the old one when compared on the bench to the new one would have a little resitance then none. On and off. Just felt wrong.
Sean
 
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I will be taking apart the belts,fan,etc off the replace the alt brushes and I don't want to do it again to replace the coupling. It seems that every time I take apart one thing to fix it the thing next to it soon needs to be fix. So I end up taking it apart again. I still don't feel any difference in resistance from hot to cold. The 60 would kick in at startup then cut off. Maybe the 80 coupling is different?
kurt
kurt
 
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kurt,
they are differeent teh 80 series are not rebuildable and the earlier 40 and 60 series were something about a tension spring. I was freaking out about mine not givnign enough resistance and I really couldnt hear it very well. then I changed my belts over and gave everything a good cleaning and the damn thing is loud as can be on free way on ramps when warm..... point to rambling if you can hear it then you are fine if you cant hear it I wtill wouldnt worry if you can cruise at high outside air temps with ac and not move the gage.
Dave
 
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[quote author=PHAEDRUS link=board=2;threadid=4905;start=msg37425#msg37425 date=1062566609]
kurt,
they are differeent teh 80 series are not rebuildable and the earlier 40 and 60 series were something about a tension spring. I was freaking out about mine not givnign enough resistance and I really couldnt hear it very well. then I changed my belts over and gave everything a good cleaning and the damn thing is loud as can be on free way on ramps when warm..... point to rambling if you can hear it then you are fine if you cant hear it I wtill wouldnt worry if you can cruise at high outside air temps with ac and not move the gage.
Dave
[/quote]

not true, fj80(91-2) fan clutchs are rebuildible(on ANY of theFC's all you can do is replace fluid anyway, if it aint working then unless the fluid has leaked out just get a new one, can't replace the spring or bearings) I believe(I get em kinda confused) 75-92 are the same part number(if not I know they will swap, done it). Not sure about 93+. But I know for a fact they come apart just like the others.

best way to test one is to. Warm up motor, close hood,block off grill, raise the RPM's to about 1k, pretty soon you will hear the fan kick in, remove cover over grill and it will kick off, if it does this its working.

when cold the FC will be stiff, when warm it will spin with little resistance, when hot it firms up again.



John H
 

cruiserdan

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The pimp has hit the target.


BTW on the 1FZ clutch, it has changed numbers once. It was a 16210-66010, it is now a 16210-66020. It lists for $124.78. The old one has a black base while the new one is bright blue. The housing is different as well, the fins look different. I am currently running the new clutch and a new OEM 3 row radiator (16400-66040)

D-
 
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Dan-

Any more ideas on overheating? My 80 still does it ever so slightly w/ the A/C on... new radiator cap, recent flush and fill, new fluid clutch, and no slipping belts... it's strange... it only over heats on what seems like hills or after driving at around town speeds, and then idling for at least 5 mins... but then it rapidly overheats... any thoughts? I can't find any cold spots on the radiator surface, on either side... I'm also running Water Wetter... help!

J
 
Joined
May 31, 2003
Messages
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Wolfpack,

Did you change the thermostat?

Retarded timing can cause a run-hot situation.

So can a bad head gasket.

But my guess is the radiator. Even without cold spots it can still be partially restricted. Your choices are to have it boiled and/or rodded out. But those of us that replaced radiators have seen our overheating problems disappear.

You mentioned a slight overheating. The temp guage needle stays in the same spot in a range of 185-221F. So if it moves up, the temp is already at 222 or more.

Ed
 

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