Looks like you could cut/trim and kinda relocate your fender lip if you wanted to. OR........just comp cut it. I'm enjoying your build.
Builds Flooded 1981 Toyota Pickup Revival & Sprung Under FJ80 Axle / Dolphin RV Dually Axle Swap Build Bonanza on 4Ds
- Thread starter Lucille
- Start date
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- #42
If was better at toyota sheetmetal work, id cut/section it and open up the fender flare, but im afraid id probably mess it up. we will see.
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- Thread starter
- #43
Any online source to by replacement wire harness plugs/connectors? Many of the 3rz plugs i removed from the Tacoma were brittle and broken from the heat cycles. I see RA has some random ones. Didnt know if there was a kit available that could pick and choose from and re-pin and replace as needed.
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Here’s a wiring repair manual with plugs and parts numbers to help. I ordered a bunch of plugs from corsa for my 3rz wiring harness.
- Thread starter
- #47
Thanks. Gnob sent that earlier. Appreciate it.
- Thread starter
- #48
Time to update. Decided to change the engine to the 3rz i got for free in the abandoned 99 Tacoma. I had the harness re-worked to a stand alone with the auto portion of the harness removed and started it up on the floor to make sure it worked. The sucker fired right up and sounded good.
Pic of the abandoned tacoma. It had 217k miles on it.
Once i knew the engine would run, i gave it the craigslist rebuild treatment.
The insides looked surprisingly good.
And what does every 217k mile 3rz need of relatively unknown mechanical condition? Well, a $150 chinese turbo of course.
Paired with this Australian made turbo manifold.
Chopped off the factory mounts and made my own to place the engine where i wanted it. Its about 1.5" up with a little less angle to hopefully make the transfer cases not hang down below the frame rails as much. Ill cut the rusted out floor accordingly.
Even clears the hood. I checked.
I also finished up the suspension fab with the mounting of the shocks both front and rear. Front will be getting some 12" Bilstein 5150s and rear will be getting some el cheapo 13" F250 Gabriel's.
And thats about where it sits for now. I removed the engine and front axle and suspension yesterday to weld everything up. Its now painted and i will start the re-assembly process this week after i weld up the mods i did on the front axle housing. Then its building of the duals, rebuilding the thirds, and wiring up the 3rz. Its coming together.
Pic of the abandoned tacoma. It had 217k miles on it.
Once i knew the engine would run, i gave it the craigslist rebuild treatment.
The insides looked surprisingly good.
And what does every 217k mile 3rz need of relatively unknown mechanical condition? Well, a $150 chinese turbo of course.
Paired with this Australian made turbo manifold.
Chopped off the factory mounts and made my own to place the engine where i wanted it. Its about 1.5" up with a little less angle to hopefully make the transfer cases not hang down below the frame rails as much. Ill cut the rusted out floor accordingly.
Even clears the hood. I checked.
I also finished up the suspension fab with the mounting of the shocks both front and rear. Front will be getting some 12" Bilstein 5150s and rear will be getting some el cheapo 13" F250 Gabriel's.
And thats about where it sits for now. I removed the engine and front axle and suspension yesterday to weld everything up. Its now painted and i will start the re-assembly process this week after i weld up the mods i did on the front axle housing. Then its building of the duals, rebuilding the thirds, and wiring up the 3rz. Its coming together.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
That’s a ton of progress, I feel lazy and unproductive now…also how much floor needs to be cut out with the engine getting raised up like that?
- Thread starter
- #50
Not quite sure yet. I mocked up the bellhousing on the back of the engine when i made the mounts and is just under the floor with marginal gap. I had to hit the floor a little to clear it on the sides but not too bad. I didnt want to raise it anymore because i plan on having AC in this one and the heater box sits right there above the bellhousing. Ill definitely have to cut it for the rear t-case.
- Thread starter
- #51
Welded in the cross tube for the front shackles to give them some rigidity and painted the leafs.
99% finish welded the front housing. Still some final gussets to add, but its close for some buffing and paint.
99% finish welded the front housing. Still some final gussets to add, but its close for some buffing and paint.
- Thread starter
- #52
My clutch came in as well. Since Marlin no longer supports anything other than new broncos and FJ cruisers i decided to go with the OG dual friction Centerforce clutch kit.
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- #53
Front axle all slicked up and looking pretty. I should get it mounted up this evening.
Made the decision to pick up another parts truck to replace this cab. This 79 is a roller. Luckily its color matched and the patina on the cab is similar to what i have now, minus the massive rust around the windshield. Ill reuse my doors, fenders, and still deciding on what bed to use. This one is much nicer but would be a shame to cut it up just to destroy it. So i may bob the one i have now and go from there. Oh, and the interior is blue and i have a bunch of blue interior parts from my Dirt Squirrel 1.0. Ill be picking it up this weekend hopefully.
Made the decision to pick up another parts truck to replace this cab. This 79 is a roller. Luckily its color matched and the patina on the cab is similar to what i have now, minus the massive rust around the windshield. Ill reuse my doors, fenders, and still deciding on what bed to use. This one is much nicer but would be a shame to cut it up just to destroy it. So i may bob the one i have now and go from there. Oh, and the interior is blue and i have a bunch of blue interior parts from my Dirt Squirrel 1.0. Ill be picking it up this weekend hopefully.
- Thread starter
- #54
New cab acquired over the weekend. Picked up a 79 roller and the cab is clean around the windshield and top like i hoped. The floor has some spots but is overall 10x better than the cab i have now. The bed is solid too except what you can see at the seam. Hood and front fenders repainted bright white. The rest original paint.
Had to move the Squirrel out to get the chassis out for the cab swap. Same Same as my body swapped 79 on a Taco chassis on 35s.
Removed the rusted cab from the crawler and rolled the chassis outside to paint the top of the frame rails and roll the 2wd roller to the lift. "Four" first gens in one pic.
Painted top of the frame rails since the cab was off.
Old rusty cab placed on the 2wd chassis. You can see the color matches pretty well with the patina.
Ill post up some more pics later but i now have the 2wd donor cab mounted to the 81 chassis. The front cab mounts on a 2wd cab are different and i had to get creative to make the front core support mount up to the 4wd cab mounts. The rear 4 mounts line up perfectly. Now i need to swap over the 22re wiring, fenders, doors, brake booster, clutch master, seat, HVAC, steering columns, etc from the rusted cab to the gutted 2wd cab. Should be a direct swap over as the 2wd cab was an AC truck to begin with.
Had to move the Squirrel out to get the chassis out for the cab swap. Same Same as my body swapped 79 on a Taco chassis on 35s.
Removed the rusted cab from the crawler and rolled the chassis outside to paint the top of the frame rails and roll the 2wd roller to the lift. "Four" first gens in one pic.
Painted top of the frame rails since the cab was off.
Old rusty cab placed on the 2wd chassis. You can see the color matches pretty well with the patina.
Ill post up some more pics later but i now have the 2wd donor cab mounted to the 81 chassis. The front cab mounts on a 2wd cab are different and i had to get creative to make the front core support mount up to the 4wd cab mounts. The rear 4 mounts line up perfectly. Now i need to swap over the 22re wiring, fenders, doors, brake booster, clutch master, seat, HVAC, steering columns, etc from the rusted cab to the gutted 2wd cab. Should be a direct swap over as the 2wd cab was an AC truck to begin with.
- Thread starter
- #55
A little more work done on the flood truck yesterday.
Mounted the last two beadlocks and mounted them to see how everything looked. Rear is going to need a little trimming. Front is high with no engine or winch bumper mounted.
Mounted the tie-rod and at full lock, they get close to the leaf springs but have about an inch of clearance.
PSC 8" hydro assist ram mounted up.
Added a middle double shear plate on the knuckles. Notice the freshly rebuilt knuckles as well with new felts, rubbers, etc from Slee. Im using their high steer arm on the passenger side only as well with new studs and cone washers. The third mount is a weld in bung through the ABS sensor hole.
"custom" body mounts for the 2wd cab to the 4wd frame mounts. Used a leaf spring sleeve and a washer frenched into the core support. Seems to work just fine.
Carolina squat? Check.
Shocks mounted up front to finish out the night.
Im going to work on the engine this evening. New water pump, front and rear main seals, rear sump oil pan, etc. Id like to get it and the transmission in the truck before i start on the duals.
Mounted the last two beadlocks and mounted them to see how everything looked. Rear is going to need a little trimming. Front is high with no engine or winch bumper mounted.
Mounted the tie-rod and at full lock, they get close to the leaf springs but have about an inch of clearance.
PSC 8" hydro assist ram mounted up.
Added a middle double shear plate on the knuckles. Notice the freshly rebuilt knuckles as well with new felts, rubbers, etc from Slee. Im using their high steer arm on the passenger side only as well with new studs and cone washers. The third mount is a weld in bung through the ABS sensor hole.
"custom" body mounts for the 2wd cab to the 4wd frame mounts. Used a leaf spring sleeve and a washer frenched into the core support. Seems to work just fine.
Carolina squat? Check.
Shocks mounted up front to finish out the night.
Im going to work on the engine this evening. New water pump, front and rear main seals, rear sump oil pan, etc. Id like to get it and the transmission in the truck before i start on the duals.
Love the progress. Thanks for sharing!
- Thread starter
- #57
Did a little yesterday. Welded up the engine mounts and installed the rear sump pan. Welded in the turbo drain as well.
Inside of the engine looked decent. No sludge, or anything out of the ordinary in the old oil pan. New pickup/gasket installed on the pump.
Pan installed and slightly torqued to get the RTV to splooge out a little around the edges. Ill final torque everything this evening.
Inside of the engine looked decent. No sludge, or anything out of the ordinary in the old oil pan. New pickup/gasket installed on the pump.
Pan installed and slightly torqued to get the RTV to splooge out a little around the edges. Ill final torque everything this evening.
- Thread starter
- #58
Had a couple weeks off work and got a lot done on the truck. Front axle is 100% done and in with new brakes, locking hubs w/ RCV hub gears, Revolution 5.29s in the HP and a new Aisin actuator for the e-locker. Steering IFS box rebuilt and tapped for hydro assist. Centerforce clutch installed and engine put back in. Duals built 23-spline throughout with a TG adapter for the gear cases to the W59, an AA adapter for the duals. 2.28 x 4.7 gears. This will be my first ever set of toyota duals which is hard to believe.
Some pics.
Centerforce dual friction clutch installed. Not many good clutch options out there for a crawler now that Marlin discontinued 95% of their solid axle s***.
The 2wd made for a good workbench.
TG transmission adapter, crawlbox, AA adapter.
Some minor surgery to fit everything above the floor. Not quite a flatbelly, but about 4" raised compared to the stock crossmember.
IFS box in and steering is working. I plan on double shearing the pitman arm.
If you can smell a picture, then you know what this smelled like. s*** was gross.
Some fresh moly RCV grease for the birfs.
And pretty much as it sits now on the lift.
Started messing with the wiring some yesterday. New harness is installed on the engine. Need to drill a hole through the firewall and mount the 3RZ ecu. Next is to start combining the 22re harness to the 3RZ so i can have everything work as close to stock as i can. Im plan on cutting a couple plugs from the 22re engine harness side and splice into the 3rz, i.e starter, gauges, AC, etc. Still waiting on my turbo manifold to come in so i can get started on all that stuff. I have about 6 weeks to get to get it finished for a new mexico / colorado trip.
Some pics.
Centerforce dual friction clutch installed. Not many good clutch options out there for a crawler now that Marlin discontinued 95% of their solid axle s***.
The 2wd made for a good workbench.
TG transmission adapter, crawlbox, AA adapter.
Some minor surgery to fit everything above the floor. Not quite a flatbelly, but about 4" raised compared to the stock crossmember.
IFS box in and steering is working. I plan on double shearing the pitman arm.
If you can smell a picture, then you know what this smelled like. s*** was gross.
Some fresh moly RCV grease for the birfs.
And pretty much as it sits now on the lift.
Started messing with the wiring some yesterday. New harness is installed on the engine. Need to drill a hole through the firewall and mount the 3RZ ecu. Next is to start combining the 22re harness to the 3RZ so i can have everything work as close to stock as i can. Im plan on cutting a couple plugs from the 22re engine harness side and splice into the 3rz, i.e starter, gauges, AC, etc. Still waiting on my turbo manifold to come in so i can get started on all that stuff. I have about 6 weeks to get to get it finished for a new mexico / colorado trip.
- Thread starter
- #59
Been working most days on this piece. Not a lot to show, but some good progress. 2nd 4runner tank back in with a walbro 255 pump installed. I installed a -6AN return line into the hanger as well. Did a bunch of wiring and i can not start the engine using the key and all through the 22re wiring harness. Turbo manifold finally came in. The Australian one fell through so i went with another GL Fab log manifold. Fit was perfect as before. Ive used one on my FJ40 and its been flawless. Also ordered both driveshafts from Tom Woods. Those should be in later this week.
Some pics:
TC pump installed with a Chilkat bracket.
Of course i had to mock up the china turbo
Downpipe is going to be tight to the firewall, but i think i can squeeze a 3" 90 in there. May have to pie but it a few times. The charge pipe should be a simple couple of 90 degree bends.
Some pics:
TC pump installed with a Chilkat bracket.
Of course i had to mock up the china turbo
Downpipe is going to be tight to the firewall, but i think i can squeeze a 3" 90 in there. May have to pie but it a few times. The charge pipe should be a simple couple of 90 degree bends.
- Thread starter
- #60
Works continues on the flood truck. Little tedious s*** that takes up a lot of time. Downpipe mocked up and clears firewall by an inch or so. Ill wrap it in header wrap. Simple charge pipe mocked up. Still needs welded but should work out nicely. IAC connection will also connect to the charge pipe. Intake will be a 45 degree coupler to some 3.5" aluminum pipe to the MAF and air filter where the original battery was located. Started on drain and oil feed plumbing as well.
Tow woods made me a couple single joint driveshafts for the front and rear. They included some gold with it as well.
Exhaust is up next. I will also probably get a fuel cell for the bed instead of the stock tank. I dont like how vulnerable it is under the bed. Should help with routing the exhaust easier as well. Radiator is a 22x19 ford/mopar Northern unit with a matching fan. Clearance is super tight to the water pump so some notching is in order for the side tanks to sink it down some. My IFS box mount on the inner frame rail is in the way so ill make it fit. Might also have to trim the core support to bring it forward 1/2" which is all i need. Its coming along.
Tow woods made me a couple single joint driveshafts for the front and rear. They included some gold with it as well.
Exhaust is up next. I will also probably get a fuel cell for the bed instead of the stock tank. I dont like how vulnerable it is under the bed. Should help with routing the exhaust easier as well. Radiator is a 22x19 ford/mopar Northern unit with a matching fan. Clearance is super tight to the water pump so some notching is in order for the side tanks to sink it down some. My IFS box mount on the inner frame rail is in the way so ill make it fit. Might also have to trim the core support to bring it forward 1/2" which is all i need. Its coming along.
