Flexy Coils and Mathematical Theory for Review

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I subscribed. I think your goal is an ideal one but if you keep tinkering you'll find a realistic new good for 80 users who are interested in That goal. I'm hooked on this stuff and enjoy the communication and troubleshooting abilities that this forum and people like you provide.
Don't get so frustrated there are a lot of us learning from you and this is what makes the 80 section thrive along with all the more trivial threads.
Sounds to me like you simply got too much lift!
The manufacturer hasn't helped you much. I think that in the states with those springs, I would head to Slee's shop and see if he would dial them in for you before I swapped.
But before that I would make sure that I wasn't going to significantly change the weight of the front or rear of the truck in the near future. I know how you continually mod as I do.
Don't delete and keep us posted, thanks for the thread, I thought I wanted some of these.
 
Delancy I am in no way ridiculing you for your efforts

Apologies if it sounded I was singling out, because I wasn't. Generalized statement.


I skim read it.

That negates any benefit to the original post, so I'll reply similarly.

1st thought: put a fat chick

Can I borrow yours? I don't have one available.

Driven a year on these coils in anticipation of settling and they haven't.

2nd thought: I have run 16" triple rate coil overs on the street and the whole idea is the same as the flexy coils. Only tunable on when it transitions from soft to street occurred.

Have dual and triple rate on quads and these aren't. The concept, yes, but the only instance where the upper coils open is at extensions beyond that of normal usage.

3rd thought: if your anal about a half inch

I'm not. Thanks for skimming.

4th I can't believe I waisted this much time

Me, either.

5th I have been responsible for spring manufacturing and its not as easy as you think. There is a lot of variation ft to ft in spring steel and unless you want to pay government rates for a perfect spring and $1k hammers and toilet seats you hear of, learn to live with manufacturing variation that keeps products reasonable priced to the public

At the onset of this thread, I explained the variables within the given formula, utilizing the constant rate of all of these coils.

All I asked for was help in determining what height of coil to re-order, based on those constants, that was states to have no variations.

Thanks for skimming.
 
6th i'm as anal as you and will end up with coilovers just saving funds oven if its for 8" of travel and a 3" lift

Ahhh, now that's a reply worth the paper.

I'm not anal, just want to benefit from the performance of a product, in a level stance.

Wish I had gone to coil overs, but was talked out of it.
 
I have not gone back through your build thread but I can't recall seeing any pics of your rig with the standard aftermarket bumper options with spare tire hanging off the back.

They were never intended, nor will even be.

Doing a 2" tube concoction at some point, that should weigh 85-100lbs.

I have that amount of weight in the rear, and have had, to compensate for.

I am also fairly certain you were shooting for an ultra light rig?

Within reason.

No swing out.

No rear bumper of any weight.

No roof rack or drawers.

The spare is in back and always has been, as has the co2 tank, gear, and a weight that the rear bumper wings and tube work will be.

Not adding anything else, so feel I'm where it will always be.

Waited a year to determine sag and there's been none.

All would be considered constant.
 
When we started having these coils made back in 2006

I originally contacted you before I even bought this 80, attempting to mimic the 3"/37 combo.

In realizing the difficulties with the time difference and knowing not everyone from Oz wants to deal with shipping and all other hassles associated with US market, I assumed there was no interest when talks died, be it email or the FJCF PMs.

The biggest reason why I would've preferred would've been the shocks to coincide with, since it appeared the kinks had been worked out.
 
Sounds to me like you simply got too much lift!

Someone actually read!!!

That's exactly it and point for thread:

I have more than the 4" originally intended and don't know if the additional height is attributable to the issues up front, since arms are for 4" lift, or how much that matters.

I have rake that I can't stand at a 5" front lift.

All I sought was a review of what coils to order to achieve a 4" lift at all four corners or what coils to order to lower rear 1" and mundane math to achieve, and if that may be a source of issues up front.

The manufacturer hasn't helped you much.

Communication seems to be a issue with suppliers in Australia. I can only assume that the time difference is the reason, since it seems to be more than one.

I emailed Superior on numerous occasions with a simple request they confirms a 4" arm is specific to 4" lift, or if the 4" arm is suitable for 5".

No reply either.

Have a buddy in Australia that finally got a rely from coil producer after he called then, and that's what got this going again.

I would head to Slee's shop and see if he would dial them in for you before I swapped.

Haha. Don't think Christo has any affinity for the long travel coils, my efforts, nor my BS regarding.

This is simple stuff, in all reality now that a few variables have been substantiated.

Reserve space at Slee for the next project and for that, all I'm going to say is "how much"? and pay.


But before that I would make sure that I wasn't going to significantly change the weight of the front or rear of the truck in the near future. I know how you continually mod as I do.

It's not. I overbuilt the previous, so knew exactly what the goal was here.

I'm a day trip guy. Throw a bag in the back, drive up to 500 miles round trip to wheel, all in a day and without trailering.

I thought I wanted some of these.

If this develops, as it initially appears, I'll wind up being a dealer with the surplus, so don't give up hope, yet.
 
I say screw it and send it to my buddies at JD Fab and turn it into a baja 80! ;)

Well, got bored last night so started chopping her up.

Hahahaha.

Money shot.



image-3915896577.jpg


Kind of have to admit it looks pretty cool, at that point, no debating the merits of the platform choice for intended purpose.

image-3915896577.jpg
 
Big Boy, thank you for stating the obvious. :meh:

One day you will share something worthwhile, or worth reading, that isnt shooting down someone else personally, while trying to look clever with 20/20 hindsight.......

We have seen plenty of Shanes coils, while swapping out the shocks he supplies, so although not as good as could be, we understand the details of that coil, and its extended lengths etc.

Thats why we offered some information toward actually helping the O.P.

Delancy, we had discussions with many people about our coils, we had Frankies try something similar, around that time, not sure what ever happened with those, but I remember they werent tapered, which we could never get to work, as dead coils, with the designs we tried.

Shane also found one of these designs, that didnt work, and then finally went to tapered wire, like we had found years earlier, when he changed coil manufacturers afew years ago.

We are still using, tuning, and installing our 9th design from back 2006, once we got the right formula, and they work well. The primary and secondary rates are important. We started with the patrol, originally, back in 2005, getting a coil to work with our 850mm rear shocks, with 14" stroke, and 750mm fronts with 11" stroke. You can see one of the early dead coil designs in this pic.

frontspring.jpg

DSCF0055.jpg

FOXlowerrearmount.jpg


Designing the coil to be the correct height another. The 80 goes to a poor driving experience on road once you go an inch higher, with roll steer from the rear, and bump steer, especially in the U.S opposing panhard rod set up. The Patrol is similar in weight, and suspension style, and we even have some coils we can run from 80, in the patrol, when tuning the height/rates.

TO overcome the roll steer issue, we have been using a larger rear sway bar, especially if the car has added weight over the rear like bar and wheel carrier, because once we went to dialling in neg camber, and more caster, the rear showed it was unable to keep up, and the roll steer [chassis wheelbase changing as the car leans, and one side wheel droops, the other compressed, causes the rear to steer itself] and this works very well, without limiting travel if the links are correct, by much.


We have also been playing with some new stuff, which is progressing well, and now set for production, after testing, and tweaks, and part of this will be the new coils not only made in the U.S.A hopefully, but available there too, along with the shocks.

We have found that with the new shocks, CDC valving easily adjustable, really helps with on road roll steer, by preventing the lean, while allowing you to drive the car to destruction around the shocks, if you wish :whoops:

We have played with dished pistons to pre load the first washer, flutter stacks for on road suppleness, ramping compression, even running valving that you would normally run in an FJ front shock, in the rear on the 80, while developing what we want.

315_zps71284762.jpg


And there is only so much travel available to make an 80 work, before you have to start cutting, and fabbing, but we are working on making the car drive and behave within these limits now, rather than just concentrate on flex, only. Delancy, tuning your coils to suit, you will only learn something in the process, even if the coils become no good ;)

01_zps5f8ac770.jpg


Loaded ride height on 35's.
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We also had FJ slinky coils when it was released here, and we use a 29" rear shock, like the 80, in the back of the FJ, 100, and 200 with the standard arm set up, and longer fronts, with heavier coils, etc.

We have used Fox 2.0 and 2.5's in the past, we made some progress with the King 2.5's for a while, but supply issues with the distributor network, and the custom shocks drove us mad, and so we have moved to a new shock supplier now, and been working with them on lots of Toyota stuff.

200rearwheeldroopedonramp.jpg

100slinkylongtravelflexedblack.jpg


Many of these during prototyping have been by tuning, cutting, heating and re adjusting existing coils, to see what works, or if its heading in the right direction, modifying shocks, or making adaptors to use different shocks, and only by doing this, can you find whats really possible, regardless of public consensus, or wives tales, forum consensus, etc.

Only you will know whats an improvement, and whats not, if you fiddle with the specs of what you have, because suppliers who really know thier product, [never assume they all do] will be able to supply you what you want, providing they make it. This is where getting inventive with what you can get steps in.

As for same old, same old, many companies just continue to supply what worked 10 years ago, which is fine, but I see that as something that would of kept us in animal skins, living in caves, if we didnt dare to venture outside further than we could see from the entrance :cheers:



I will be updating the details in my 80 SNOWY build, as we progress with some of the stuff above, too.
 
Not every shop or every dealer has the most up to date equipment for alignment racks. I know one in RI that can't even measure caster. For that reason alone I stick with a shop I know has the latest stuff.

So if you are going top take the time to adjust the stops why in hell would you not do it right?
 
Darren, the only fact I wanted to state. Is I dont think you should be telling anyone to cut other peoples coils. I know Chris, and know he will not be very happy with the offroad performance if they have been cut. He would be far better selling these and buying a proggress coil locally.

Was there any call or talk about bumstop spacers? You bring this all on yourself. Different strokes for different folks.
 
@ Darren,

I'm digesting and compiling a reply, but will take some time, so I hope you'll check back in.

A quick question, though, and asking due to experience with these exact coils.

Does the design inherent to SS coils seem to bind sooner than a conventional coil?

It'd only make sense, since there's more material there, but in my ridiculed method of determining shock travel values, I could never get the coils to compress and that was lifting a corner to the point the same side front or rear tire was almost off the ground, with 37s.

So if you are going top take the time to adjust the stops why in hell would you not do it right?

I'm pretty sure that's not directed at me, but if it is, you should know better.
 
He would be far better selling these and buying a proggress coil locally.

There's no chance to buy locally, unless someone will send me the detailed specs to produce. I've discussed with CSS and they said they could build anything, but not design something so far out of the box, on a platform with a limited market.

My plan is this.

Buy front coils assumed to level with the current rears, and sell as a set.

Buy rear coils that will level to 5" with what I've got on the front now.

Buy 4 coils that are suitable for 4" at all four corners.

Play with all, see what I like and don't, sell what's left.

If I can recoup a portion of the investment, it seems the only way.

After that, I'll probably sell all and got to coilovers.







Hahahaha. Joking.
 
Just in.

SA coil lengths for Pat's 80 (update with link shortly).

These are to net 4.5" of lift.

Front: flextf605

Rear: flextr600

Does that help at all? Its the only tags i could see on em.

Edited: In comparison to mine that netted well above 4", these are longer.
 
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There's no chance to buy locally, unless someone will send me the detailed specs to produce. I've discussed with CSS and they said they could build anything, but not design something so far out of the box, on a platform with a limited market.

My plan is this.

Buy front coils assumed to level with the current rears, and sell as a set.

Buy rear coils that will level to 5" with what I've got on the front now.

Buy 4 coils that are suitable for 4" at all four corners.

Play with all, see what I like and don't, sell what's left.

If I can recoup a portion of the investment, it seems the only way.

After that, I'll probably sell all and got to coilovers.







Hahahaha. Joking.

I think its TJM that sell a progressive coil for 4".
 
I think its TJM that sell a progressive coil for 4".

Then I'd have to eat crow and I don't like the taste.

I have yet to have ridden or driven an off the shelf AUS component for the FJC, 100, or 80 that didn't ride like my F350.

Will continue to :deadhorse: until the damn thing gets up and walks again.
 
I'm pretty sure that's not directed at me, but if it is, you should know better.


no, it's to those who questioned the worth of my post and the need to do so based on alignment results when there are some machines that don't use the stops to determine caster.

I'm just trying to put out some info that you might not be aware of in order to help you through the process.
 
Darren, the only fact I wanted to state. Is I dont think you should be telling anyone to cut other peoples coils. I know Chris, and know he will not be very happy with the offroad performance if they have been cut. He would be far better selling these and buying a proggress coil locally.

Was there any call or talk about bumstop spacers? You bring this all on yourself. Different strokes for different folks.

Big Boy, cutting coils is par for the course, manufacturers trim and grind after manufacture, and even cut, its normal practice to even heat and reset heights after manufacture.

And these arent "other peoples coils" they are his, he bought them, he can do what he likes with them.

Cutting a coil would do nothing to the offroad performance of the coils, as they wont change dead coil rates, all that will do is chnage the ride height.

Just because you dont know about processes, doesnt mean it isnt possible, when we all started playing with cars, and were where you are now, learning something every time we logged on, most understood why they have 2 ears, and only one mouth, and tended to stick to what they knew, rather than read, and post what we thought they saw.

Standing up for something, and being so opinionated on stuff you obviously arent undertsanding, or shouldnt have an opinion on, does nothing to help the OP on his problem, or anyone else, for that matter.

As for the bump stops, this proves that theory, it was just another view on the set up of your vehicle, and why you may not have heard the coil noise, just because you werent aware of it, with those huge bump stops stopping the coil going to bind, and compression, doesnt mean it doesnt happen for others, but you have to look at the variables, to be able to understand it properly, and what others may be experiencing.

Then people might actually take you seriously.


That will be the last reply to your opinions, Now, back to the topic here.....


Delancy,

At static movement, the right coil for the weight will not allow the vehicle to get to the bump stop when twisting it up.

Ideal is normally about 30-40mm away from the bump stop, because when the vehicle isnt in motion, it has no momentum, so some compression would still be required to catch that momentum, when wheeling, for this type of set up, along with bush binding. trying the same thing with all the control arm bolts lossened can help you determine how much is from bush bind.
Also pays to do a front, then a rear, to understand the axle weight and coil rate differences.

Ride quality is more about shock, than coil, and height, you can make coil rate changes of a reasonable amount before ride quality suffers, where as shock tuning has much more to do with the ride quality, with smaller swings more noticable.

We have even cut 2 coils, and used a joiner, like a coil over slide, to try different coil rates, we have had soft overly tall coils made so they stay captive, and run lower ride heights, we have made coils softer rate and taller free height, to sit the same ride height as heavier coils etc etc.

I am hoping, proper slinky coils will be available, with the ICON slinky long travel shocks we now have being made, soon.

Coil over kit is in the plans, down the track, after the bypass rebound and compression adj remote res 2.5 bolt ons 8)


When you want what no one has, you have to make it :wrench: :D
 
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Your situation sounds similar to mine, the ironman coils state they yeild a 6 inch lift, with 500 pounds hanging off the back I got 8" of lift...... Irritating, so I just bought 5" ome comp coils and a 30mm spacer like I had before
 
Delancy, tuning your coils to suit, you will only learn something in the process, even if the coils become no good ;)

Have absorbed some info, but realize it doesn't scratch the surface to the complexity of coil spring design.

Think I can see the nuances between the two vastly different coils I have (80 & FJC) and somewhere in between lies the ideal coil.

How to combine, I've no clue.

TO overcome the roll steer issue, we have been using a larger rear sway bar.......and this works very well, without limiting travel if the links are correct, by much.

Actually, have a solution for this, or so I think, that'd not only stiffen the rear 10-15%, but will also get the low hanging OE SB arms out of the way and eliminate the arms contacting the axle housing.

Hope to shave panhard mount this week, if not next and get the housing welded between the frame rails, just waiting on a few correspondences to finalize.

We have also been playing with some new stuff, which is progressing well, and now set for production, after testing, and tweaks, and part of this will be the new coils not only made in the U.S.A hopefully, but available there too, along with the shocks.

Icon, I see. They've already a few products similar.

How far out is the release?

We also had FJ slinky coils when it was released here, and we use a 29" rear shock, like the 80, in the back of the FJ, 100, and 200 with the standard arm set up, and longer fronts, with heavier coils, etc.

Have similar on the FJC with a 28.5" and the reason for seeking a similar product for the 80.

Pic, that'll I'll reference again.



image-2265208231.jpg






, because suppliers who really know thier product, will be able to supply you what you want, providing they make it.

Not finding any that make it.

As for same old, same old, many companies just continue to supply what worked 10 years ago, which is fine, but I see that as something that would of kept us in animal skins, living in caves, if we didnt dare to venture outside further than we could see from the entrance :cheers:

Amen.

Cutting a coil would do nothing to the offroad performance of the coils, as they wont change dead coil rates, all that will do is chnage the ride height.

Here's what I've got and why I don't believe coil cutting is an option, since I'd have to remove all the dead coils to lower, therefore losing the ability to benefit from 30" shocks.

Rear 80

image-380084117.jpg

Front 80

image-2851582771.jpg

Now, if they were more like the FJC dead coil spacings, I could see it, but they're not.

Rear FJC

image-738289909.jpg



At static movement, the right coil for the weight will not allow the vehicle to get to the bump stop when twisting it up.

I couldn't get the primary coils to contact one another, either.

Best I can describe, the primary rate it relatively stiff (going to determine later today, the best I can with online calculators) and may be the reason that I'm sitting inches taller than a coil this length should elevate.

We have even cut 2 coils, and used a joiner, like a coil over slide, to try different coil rates, we have had soft overly tall coils made so they stay captive, and run lower ride heights, we have made coils softer rate and taller free height, to sit the same ride height as heavier coils etc etc.

Have searched all morning for something similar, and can only find JDM tuner components that allow for a true dual rate coil. They must capture the coil assembly, somehow, which wouldn't work well in extended circumstance, BUT this would be a good way to play around with developing a working product....I think.

All above my pay grade as a bolt on guy.

I am hoping, proper slinky coils will be available, with the ICON slinky long travel shocks we now have being made, soon.

How soon, or should that question be directed to Icon?

Assuming they're taking a holistic approach to this and their shock valving will coincide with coil oscillation.

When you want what no one has, you have to make it :wrench: :D

I wish I had the capabilities.

I am going to begin sheet metal surgery in advance of obtaining what I want, though, hopefully as a motivator.

image-2265208231.jpg


image-380084117.jpg


image-2851582771.jpg


image-738289909.jpg
 
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