Flasher Issues on my 78 Restore? (1 Viewer)

[ButtonIt]

If all your lights work and work correctly but when you use the turn signal it flashes once and stays on, to the particular side your turning on would this be a grounding issue or a bad flasher.

I searched on flashers and signals and it sounds like a ground problem but I didn't find anything that referenced the single flash or click then the signals stay on so I was wondering if it wasn't a bad flasher?

Any thoughts, thanks.

 

[rsbcruiser]

It could be your flasher itself or maybe it is not getting enough juice. I have a similiar problem. my turn signal stops flashing when I step on the brakes. bet our solutions will be the same. Grand Coulee! Been there, wow. Bet you guys have no shortage of 4 X 4 trails there.

 

[Pin_Head]

It usually means that either a bulb is burned out on that side or is the wrong bulb or it has a bad connection somewhere in the circuit, most likely a ground. It is a feature to let you know that there is a problem.

 

[ButtonIt]

I guess I will have to go through and reground each light one by one, I was really careful putting them in and they are all new but that I guess is what I need to do first, I just thought since it would blink once maybe it was a bad flasher.

 

[viperbrat]

lights

I hope I can help I've had the same trouble and ended up replacing the wire harness from the front back. I found that the factory conectors like to corrode .Also I made sure I had a good ground .I haven't had any trouble for the past 4 mounths.

 

[CruisinMT]

just kick it, makes my tempermental tailight work.

 

[brew8]

Did you replace any of the bulbs with LED lights, they will make the flasher think there is a problem and they require a solid state flasher.

 

[Fast Eddy]

It can also be a voltage issue. If you're doing your tests off the battery without the engine running, you may not have enough volts to get the flasher to flash.

There are lots of ground connections between the bulbs and the body including places inside the housing where there's metal-to-metal contact. Hit each one of them with a file.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I had a Beetle that did that. Had to tap on the flasher module to make it flash. It was just worn out. I replaced it with another from a parts rig and it started working.

 

[ButtonIt]

Checked all my grounds again, seem to be good, all bulbs are good, hazards flash but no signal blinks, might have to get a new flasher and just rule that out.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Checked all my grounds again, seem to be good, all bulbs are good, hazards flash but no signal blinks, might have to get a new flasher and just rule that out.

Well that is weird. Anyone know if there are two seperate switches in that box? One for 4 ways and one for L/R?

 

[Pin_Head]

Grounds should be checked by running a wire from the fram ground to clean metal on the lamp housing and seeing if the light blinks. It is hard to know if they are good by eyeballing them.

It could also be a bad/corroded connection anywhere else in the circuit although bad grounds sem to pop up more frequently.

If you get a solid state flasher, it will flash regardless of the connection, the bulb type and how bright the bulb is.

 

[ButtonIt]

Bulbs and Lights are all brand new, and everything is bright and working which makes me thing my grounds are good. Flasher work great, but when I use the signal left or right it just clicks once and stays on to that side you are signaling toward.

 

[Pin_Head]

If I had to guess, I would guess that the bulbs are incorrect (low watt) because they are new and that is when the problem started. It is also very unlikely that both the L and R circuits would be bad at the same time as they are independent after the switch. If it is a bad connection it is probably upstream from the switch. It is the same flasher for the hazards, so it obvously works if you have enough load on it to up heat the bimetal switch.

Get a solid state flasher and be done with it, or put the old bulbs back in.

 

[Mr. Toad]

Did you replace any of the bulbs with LED lights, they will make the flasher think there is a problem and they require a solid state flasher.

If I had to guess, I would guess that the bulbs are incorrect (low watt) because they are new and that is when the problem started. It is also very unlikely that both the L and R circuits would be bad at the same time as they are independent after the switch. If it is a bad connection it is probably upstream from the switch. It is the same flasher for the hazards, so it obvously works if you have enough load on it to up heat the bimetal switch.

Get a solid state flasher and be done with it, or put the old bulbs back in.

Listen to Pin_Head on this one, as I did. Read it here.