Flame the Newbie

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by AgRunner06, Jul 10, 2005.

  1. AgRunner06

    AgRunner06

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    Hey guys, I'm new here but not to Toyotas. You can find me usually on Yotatech as I have a 93 4runner. The reason I'm posting here is to gain knowledge from the ever-knowing LC gods. My step-mom has a 96 LC (sorry no lockers :crybaby: ) with 165K miles and, being the woman that she is (sorry to any women on here but yall aren't the best at maintaining vehicles) doesn't take care of her car.

    But before I begin with a question, I'll post a little fix I found in case someone needs it in the future.

    I had these codes not too long ago after already replacing the EGR modulator and the EGR itself:

    0401 EGR flow insufficient detected
    0402 EGR flow excessive detected
    0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)

    The stealership wanted to replace the cat :flipoff2:. I replaced the upper O2 sensor and got rid of the 0401 and 0420. So now after reading here, I'm going to check the lines for blockage and if needed replace the VSV. This leads me to my first question. Where is the EGR VSV?

    Next quick question. If the front axle is already making noise when turning, has damage already been done?

    Final quick question. Is it typical for the oil cooler to leak? That's where it looks like oil is coming from but I'm not 100% sure.

    And yes, I did search on these items. But if I didn't do a good enough job feel free to tell me with as much flame as possible. :ban:

    Alright flame away (and try to answer my ?s) at my lack of knowledge in this new land.

    :grinpimp:
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2005
  2. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    too hot to answer, but Welcome!
     
  3. elmariachi

    elmariachi

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    The VSV is below the intake manifold and is tough to get to. It has a dark blue connector and you may have to remove the intake to get to it. That was the cause of my 402 code and I had the dealer do it because it was under my extended warranty.

    It's not normal for anything to leak on these trucks. My motto is find it and fix it. Leaks are for amateurs. :D
     
  4. Fochdog

    Fochdog

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  5. AgRunner06

    AgRunner06

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    Awesome, thanks guys. How hard is it to remove the intake chamber? I had to do it on my 3.slow (I really hate that engine and hope to get rid of the rig soon) when I replaced my injectors and it was a PITA to do.

    :cheers:
     
  6. elmariachi

    elmariachi

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    Its not a job for a novice and I definitely recommend having a FSM on hand. You need to drain the coolant and disconnect a bunch of stuff. And you need to have the replacement gaskets on hand as well as a new VSV (might as well change it if you're going in that far) and free day to work at a moderate pace.
     
  7. neowulf

    neowulf

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    the birfs are probably due to a lubejob :D and youre leak sonds like it might as well be from the powersteering, sheck that as well, the oil will run from the PS. input shaft throu the frame and drip from the left front towing point .


    and welcome


    btw the 4-runner, anny mods?
     
  8. AgRunner06

    AgRunner06

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    Hmm it doesn't sounds to promising to pull the intake but I will if it comes down to it. I've got small hands so maybe I can squeeze in there if possible. I'll probably just check the lines first.

    The 4runner. I've done a lot of little stuff but nothing extreme. Here's a quick list:

    Downey HD coils
    Mickey Thompson Classic Wheels with 31x10.50s
    Platinum tint with either limo or 15%
    Procomp shocks and steering stablizer
    Advanced timing
    2.25" Dynomax muffler and Magnaflow highflow cat

    The 4runner has been pretty good to me and I like it but it just doesn't have any power and gets bad gas mileage. It's a combo of the crappy 3.slow and my auto. So I'm looking to upgrade probably to a 96-98 4wd 4runner. However if I stumble across the right 1st gen w/ a 22re I may go for it.

    :bounce:
     
  9. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    IMO, the easiest way to get to and change out the EGR VSV is to remove the throttle body (he probably needs to clean it anyway). No need to drain the coolant, the bypass hose may leak a teaspoons worth, if that. The gasket at the throttle body/intake chamber interface is metal and reusable. This is about an hour and a half to two hour job, if you've never done it before. As mention, you should have the FSM on hand, so you know what to unplug, remove etc..

    :beer:
    Rookie2
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2005
  10. LX_TREME

    LX_TREME

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    Out of curiosity can you snap pic of her i mean the rig :doh: just wondering how/what the LC look like without being taking good care of...Thanks.
     
  11. semlin

    semlin discouraged user

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    Ag if you read the link above you will note you don't have to remove the intake chamber as long as you have a 24" plus extension bar. you can get the vs by pulling the t-body and accessing one bolt from under the truck.

    don't forget the modulator!!!!! seems like 80% of vsvs fail because the modulator is bad and letting carbon into the vacuum lines.
     
  12. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    I guess you can, but you really don't need an extension. Everything is accessible from the top side once the TB is out. I've removed it twice... once to test (inconclusive) and the second time to replace.

    :beer:
    Rookie2
     
  13. AgRunner06

    AgRunner06

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    Thanks guys. Pulling the TB is going to be much easier than pulling the intake chamber. I do need to pick up a manual for this thing. Though I'm not too sure I want to shell out the money for a FSM. I'll probably just go with a Haynes :doh: . Between that and the internet, I've never been let down with the 4runner.

    Well it looks like I have some work ahead of me. I'll try to get a pick of that oil leak so you guys can let me know if I'm right about the oil cooler.

    I'm going to do some more reading on the regrease of the front axle. That job may take me quite a bit of time since I'd be doing it all by my self and it would be the first time for me to do it. Is it best to just buy a kit with all the seals and gaskets or just buy what I know I'll need to replace?

    Thanks again. Your help is much appreciated.

    :beer:
     
  14. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    Yes on the kit. Most of the stuff is non-reusable anyways. Typically, you're going to fine the general attitude here is not to skimp on parts especially with all the dough you saving on labor. Check with C'dan on the parts and FSM. If you're going to be doing alot of your own maitenance, you'll want the FSM. It will save you lots of :doh:.

    :beer:
    Rookie2
     
  15. Rich

    Rich

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    The factory service manual costs less than 1 hour of dealer labor. If it's not worth buying, what is?
     
  16. stayalert

    stayalert

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    Yeesh in comes another newb...charging in like he knows everything, shows no knowledge of or respect for anything related to toyotas, bashes women, shows no interest in the importance of maintenace, offers no help of any kind demands answers, jumps right in with questions wuthout searching.....huh? oh...I thought I was supposed to flame a newbie.... :whoops:

    welcome:flipoff2:
     
  17. NovaFZJ80

    NovaFZJ80

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    AGRunner06,

    sent you a PM in regards to a FSM....trying to get rid of mine that i still have....
     
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