Builds FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one)

[Mike Shull]

If you are using a new gasket then I would bet that your gasket is slightly different. I suspect that I had the same problem with my windshield install and the installer had similar concerns about whether my glass came out of the same frame, etc. Fortunately I was able to rule out any discrepancies there as mine (update: the frame, not the glass) was the original and I had ordered a new gasket from Toyota.

I ended up having a very reputable heavy equipment/custom car glass company come to my home to custom cut glass to fit. He used my template as a starting point and trimmed the glass until it fit right. It took him three times and cost around $500 + the new gaskets.

 

[Mike Shull]

Something else to note is that my installer put the gasket in the windshield frame without the glass and took additional measurements. I’ve had several windshields cut for this Cruiser, but this was the first time that I had them replace the gasket.

 

[Ditcherman]

Electrical going in. Slow but it’s going to be very clean and nice when it’s done.

The vintage air is blocking the JB shifter lever handles. They’ll either get bent or shortened. Always something.

Building the sliders. Going to eliminate the Aqualu factory looking step, don’t like the pattern of the diamond plate on it and it exacerbates a fitment problem of different angles between the old cowl and the new tub. Plus, they were kind of in the way for a slider to be high and tight-ish and double as a step.

 

[Mike Shull]

The vintage air is blocking the JB shifter lever handles. They’ll either get bent or shortened. Always something.

Yes, this is right! At this point I think that everything except for my rear view mirror and a few factory switches on the dash are going to be modified. My rear heater is too big to fit between the seats without trimming it or creating some sort of bracket to scoot it over a few inches.

I love those sliders. They are stout and I can’t wait to see them installed!!

 

[Ditcherman]

Not quite installed yet but they’re turning out.

Discovered a bit of trimming to do on body mounts to get these to fit right.
These things gotta weigh 100 lbs a piece. Just lowered my CG some.

 

[Mike Shull]

These look sweet! What is this tab for?

I don’t know about the instructions that came with your tub, and I may have missed this with mine. I am adding two bolts on either side under the floor through the lip where my tub and cowl meet. I cracked my paint when I flexed mine earlier in the year. Now would be a great time to add a few to yours before you install the sliders.

 

[Mike Shull]

I don’t have any hardware below this line.

 

[Ditcherman]

These look sweet! What is this tab for?

View attachment 3883292

I don’t know about the instructions that came with your tub, and I may have missed this with mine. I am adding two bolts on either side under the floor through the lip where my tub and cowl meet. I cracked my paint when I flexed mine earlier in the year. Now would be a great time to add a few to yours before you install the sliders.

View attachment 3883293

The tab is actually just the end of the 2x2x1/4 square tube, cut off at an angle to match the cowl and fender angles. I should probably mount a fender up to double check that gap…

I didn’t get any instructions, but a detailed bolt list. The very first time we set the tub on I was “nuh-uh”. 3 3/8 holes were drilled per side and the cowl cross member down there was reinforced to help with that, using 3/8 grade 8 hardware. We’ve lifted the cowl and tub off the frame together, although that was before paint. I’m also bolting the tub to some floorboard ‘remnants’ with three bolts, in the footwell area.

There went the concourse awards.

Thinking about it, most of that bag of hardware hasn’t been used yet. We’ll raid it when we want a stainless metric bolt that doesn’t have to be Toyota thread pitch.
All the body mounts are custom and use grade 8 hardware. Some of them are doubled, using 2 of the rubber/captured nut assemblies.

 

[Mike Shull]

The tab is actually just the end of the 2x2x1/4 square tube, cut off at an angle to match the cowl and fender angles. I should probably mount a fender up to double check that gap…

I didn’t get any instructions, but a detailed bolt list. The very first time we set the tub on I was “nuh-uh”. 3 3/8 holes were drilled per side and the cowl cross member down there was reinforced to help with that, using 3/8 grade 8 hardware. We’ve lifted the cowl and tub off the frame together, although that was before paint. I’m also bolting the tub to some floorboard ‘remnants’ with three bolts, in the footwell area.

There went the concourse awards.

Thinking about it, most of that bag of hardware hasn’t been used yet. We’ll raid it when we want a stainless metric bolt that doesn’t have to be Toyota thread pitch.
All the body mounts are custom and use grade 8 hardware. Some of them are doubled, using 2 of the rubber/captured nut assemblies.

Interesting. All of my hardware is standard grade 5. I only used roughly 30% of the hardware that was provided.

 

[archie73]

This may or may not be relevant to the cowl/tub joining:
On my tub, rust had eaten the bottom 6-8” of the A pillar. I replaced it with a heavier wall square tube I had in the scrap bin. I then bolted the 3/4 tub to this new metal above and below the floorboard. This resulted in a nice sturdy connection. Now when I get flexed out in the rocks, it rips the new A pillar out at the welds. I haven’t figured out the solution yet. FYI

 

[Ditcherman]

This may or may not be relevant to the cowl/tub joining:
On my tub, rust had eaten the bottom 6-8” of the A pillar. I replaced it with a heavier wall square tube I had in the scrap bin. I then bolted the 3/4 tub to this new metal above and below the floorboard. This resulted in a nice sturdy connection. Now when I get flexed out in the rocks, it rips the new A pillar out at the welds. I haven’t figured out the solution yet. FYI

That sounds serious, ripping apart like that.
Are your aprons, on top of the fender, bolted to the cowl? It’s tempting to bolt them together but OEM is left to flex there. Just trying to understand where the leverage is coming from pulling the cowl away from the tub.

 

[archie73]

That sounds serious, ripping apart like that.
Are your aprons, on top of the fender, bolted to the cowl? It’s tempting to bolt them together but OEM is left to flex there. Just trying to understand where the leverage is coming from pulling the cowl away from the tub.

Nope, cowl-apron is not bolted together. Cowl is bolted to the fenders tho.
My feeling is due to multiple factors:
1)The aluminum tub is much stiffer than the steel cowl. Making them move in different ways.
2) The rollcage is bolted to the tub, making it even stiffer. In flexing the truck while wheeling, the rollcage has ripped both sun visors off. They had plenty of space when I set the cage up, but evidently not enough.
3) The oem frame is pretty flexy. @Ditcherman this will be less of problem since you are using a modern dodge frame. @Mike Shull - did you plate your frame?
Lastly, I’m a fledgling welder/fabricator. I may have used too beefy of a square tube to replace the rotten portion of the A pillar. Not positive on this, but it seems possible.

I don’t know if you’ll have the same issues, just sharing my experience. I think I’m going to remove the extra bolt I put in the A pillar and see if that lets it flex more.

 

[Mike Shull]

Nope, cowl-apron is not bolted together. Cowl is bolted to the fenders tho.
My feeling is due to multiple factors:
1)The aluminum tub is much stiffer than the steel cowl. Making them move in different ways.
2) The rollcage is bolted to the tub, making it even stiffer. In flexing the truck while wheeling, the rollcage has ripped both sun visors off. They had plenty of space when I set the cage up, but evidently not enough.
3) The oem frame is pretty flexy. @Ditcherman this will be less of problem since you are using a modern dodge frame. @Mike Shull - did you plate your frame?
Lastly, I’m a fledgling welder/fabricator. I may have used too beefy of a square tube to replace the rotten portion of the A pillar. Not positive on this, but it seems possible.

I don’t know if you’ll have the same issues, just sharing my experience. I think I’m going to remove the extra bolt I put in the A pillar and see if that lets it flex more.

Yes, I plated my inner frame where it was previously open and I fully welded the seems from front to back. I also fish plated the frame in a few areas where there were cracks or other connection points (mounts, extension, etc.). The original frame was very flexible, which most people like as it adds more articulation, but my frame was showing serious signs of fatigue in a few areas after 40 years of 4-wheeling and 260k miles. I decided that I wanted less movement with my frame and to increase the movement at the suspension.

The truck drives completely different and it feels very solid as I drive down the road. It doesn’t vibrate, twist or jump when I hit bumps in the road or when I am traveling down a rough section. Some of that has to be contributed to the fact that it’s heavier, but I also think that a big improvement to the drivability must be contributed to the rigid frame. @Ditcherman is using a Ford 1-ton frame if I remember correctly so I bet that he will experience similar benefits with having a rigid frame.

 

[Ditcherman]

Yes, I plated my inner frame where it was previously open and I fully welded the seems from front to back. I also fish plated the frame in a few areas where there were cracks or other connection points (mounts, extension, etc.). The original frame was very flexible, which most people like as it adds more articulation, but my frame was showing serious signs of fatigue in a few areas after 40 years of 4-wheeling and 260k miles. I decided that I wanted less movement with my frame and to increase the movement at the suspension.

The truck drives completely different and it feels very solid as I drive down the road. It doesn’t vibrate, twist or jump when I hit bumps in the road or when I am traveling down a rough section. Some of that has to be contributed to the fact that it’s heavier, but I also think that a big improvement to the drivability must be contributed to the rigid frame. @Ditcherman is using a Ford 1-ton frame if I remember correctly so I bet that he will experience similar benefits with having a rigid frame.

F450 frame from 1989, actually. So very tough to begin with then I’ve plated and reinforced it beyond that.
One of my concerns considering flex is that these aluminum tubs seem very rigid, if they flex they would crack. I’m sure others have experience seriously wheeling with an original frame so maybe my fears are unfounded. I’m assuming I’ll not see much frame flex.
The beast is going to be a turtle anyway.

 

[Ditcherman]

Engine compartment coming together.
Battery, air compressor have a space, need to find room for overflow and washer bottle.
This intercooler’s been a bear to get in there, there’s a quarter inch between the fan and the hood.

I built the steering column out of pieces I had, and ended up with two u joints and a rag joint and I don’t think that works. Will pull the steering column and eliminate the rag joint I think.

Also, sliders got mounted finally.

 

[Ditcherman]

One year since I started the thread. Seems a lot longer than that that I started the build.
Worked on putting some glass in this morning but was not successful, before I had to go to actual work .
But the sliding windows seem like they’re gonna work good.
And it’s nice seeing some top sides on it finally, I like the perspective it has, looking forward to doors and more windows.
And electrical. Still electrical.

 

[Mike Shull]

This thing is looking sweet. Do you think that you will have it ready for SAS?

What size simple die and gauge of steel did you use for the tops of your steps?

 

[Ditcherman]

This thing is looking sweet. Do you think that you will have it ready for SAS?

What size simple die and gauge of steel did you use for the tops of your steps?

Come hell or high water I will have it lined around and checked out well before then. Want to break it close to home and fix it, so barring an absolute disaster….
I will either break it completly or it will be there.

I’m cracking the whip with my help but it’s planting season too so we have stuff we have to actually have to go to work for…the help is also great, and we’re at an enjoyable part where we’re assembling and seeing it come together. My electrician is wiring in the 4 heated 12 way BMW seats tomorrow, assuming it rains line they’re calling for…

Figuring out what gives, like the paint job that I’m not thrilled with, I have been told since it’s all painted go ahead and put it together and then paint it like a normal car, all together. That might not happen before SAS.

Lots of little things to do, but the big things are right in front of me, roll cage and roof. It’s coming together.

 

[Ditcherman]

What size simple die and gauge of steel did you use for the tops of your steps?

The dimple die was a 1 1/4”, used an electricians knockout that was actual size 1.362 because that’s what I had, had to hold it centered but didn’t want to clean up after a hole saw, and it was 16 gauge steel over a 2” square as the main beam and 1 3/4” .188 dom outer rail. 2” square to the frame.

 

[clrussell]

Come hell or high water I will have it lined around and checked out well before then. Want to break it close to home and fix it, so barring an absolute disaster….
I will either break it completly or it will be there.

I’m cracking the whip with my help but it’s planting season too so we have stuff we have to actually have to go to work for…the help is also great, and we’re at an enjoyable part where we’re assembling and seeing it come together. My electrician is wiring in the 4 heated 12 way BMW seats tomorrow, assuming it rains line they’re calling for…

Figuring out what gives, like the paint job that I’m not thrilled with, I have been told since it’s all painted go ahead and put it together and then paint it like a normal car, all together. That might not happen before SAS.

Lots of little things to do, but the big things are right in front of me, roll cage and roof. It’s coming together.

Picture of said seats? What were they out of?