FJ80 Rattle Can Paint Job (2 Viewers)

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Joined
May 20, 2023
Threads
7
Messages
41
Location
Florida
I'm finally at the stage where I can work on the appearance. I was going to take it to Maaco and let the do it, but after visiting our local Maaco and seeing the low hanging fruit that works there...uhmmmm...nope, y'all are not touching my Cruiser. Years ago I painted my rock buggy with spray paint and it held up decently well, so I figured why not try it again and see what happens.

Talked with a friend who works at our local Toyota dealership and he put me in touch with their head bodyman/painter. After picking his brain, I went home and planned out what I would need and the process to get the prep work done and ready for paint. Cowl and gas filler door removed and these were my test pieces. Sanded it down with 320 grit and wiped the parts down with denatured alcohol. Two coats of Rustoleum Flat Tan and two coats of Rustoleum Matte Clear Coat. Let it sit for 48 hours and then did an adhesion test and drug some branches across the paint to see how it held up. It held up nicely so I moved towards the rest of the vehicle. Pulled all of the window belts off and these will be replaced with new ones. Sanded the entire truck with 320 grit. Ground smooth the 26 holes (flares removed) that were filled with weld and then hit a coat of primer to cover the bare metal. I still need to have the windshield removed and the back hatch glass removed so I can sand these areas and then have both pieces of glass reinstalled with new seals when the paint is finished.

Decided to black out the front grill and the chrome trim pieces around the lights. I used Rusoleum Canyon Black and the put two coats of the Matte Clear over it. I like the way they turned out.

Roof rack was removed and the holes filled with JB Weld stick, ground down smooth and the top will be getting covered with Tan Raptor liner. I will also do the cargo area with Black Raptor Liner. I will keep this thread updated as I continue to make progress. I anticipate getting the paint/clear coat down this upcoming weekend.

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Good on you for giving a go at the diy rattle can paint. The one suggestion I have is instead of using the Rust-Oleum clear coat, I would look into using a quality UV-resistant 2K clear.
While I am a fan of Rust-Oleum paint, and I use it on most of my projects, I have not had good success with their clear coat under sun exposure. I used it when I repainted my bumpers and roof rack. Within two years the clear had oxidized and everything needs to be redone. About the same time I painted my off-road trailer to match the cruiser. I used a 2K clear and five years later it hasn't faded at all.
 
Shipwreck, I appreciate your suggestion regarding the clear coat. Do you recall what brand/product you used when you did your trailer ?
 
^^^
I also used automotive touchup for the matching paint and initial coat of clear. But I ran short of their clear coat. I ordered SprayMax 2K from Amazon to finish several more coats. I've used the SprayMax on my son's car and several other projects with good results.
Wear a mask/respirator when spraying that stuff.
 
Looking good OP!

I am on the Rust-Oleum train (much to the disgust of my mates) for my 40 (and my 80 is still rattlecans flat black primer lol)

I have read conflicting info about clears over Rust-Oleum as far as general compatibility and timing.

I am committed to that rattlecan life and I lay it down really well and have done many motorcycles and a few cars.

I used Rust-Oleum gloss regal red as I heard it was the closest match to my stock freeborn red, but it only comes in gloss.
Well it is incredibly bright and incredibly glossy. The brightness I can deal with but the gloss has to go, so I was either going to sand it down or put a matte clear over it.

Spraymax 2k matte rattle cans sound great (but expensive)
Does the timing matter? Some say to do it while the base coat is wet, others instead say you should wait a month.. WTF?

The texture you see in the inside of the tub is not paint flaws, it's metal flaws. I considered lining it but I hate that stuff but it would definitely hide some of the pitting.

Getting ready to do the outside of the tub soon but want to have a solid plan to flatten it first.

Thanks.

Rattlecans forever!

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Pulled the windshield and back hatch glass today and was very happy to only find two minor surface rust spots. The windshield will be replaced with new glass and a new seal, back hatch glass will be reinstalled with a new seal.

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Looking forward to your results. My cruiser was poorly repainted before I got it. I did krylon camo tan on my xj and that came out pretty well though I rushed the second coat so it had some extra texture.

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Painted the regular black portion today and decided to do the drip rail and mirrors black as well. I also did the actual door handle black. Hood and front fenders are done except for clear coat. Between coats, I gently wiped the surface with a red scotch brite pad to remove any excess buildup.

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Finished up getting the paint done today. For a rattle can job it came out pretty decent. New windshield and gasket goes in next Wednesday along with reinstalling the back hatch glass with a new gasket. Still need to get the grill, headlights and side markers installed but that will have to wait for another day. Also replaced the six window belts and a new Land Cruiser emblem. The Toyota sombrero and the AllWheelDrive emblems will not be going back on...I like the look without them.

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Hey @Ronin344 can you post a picture of the paint and clear you've used so far? I'm considering going this route as well. The original owner of my Cruiser used it for moving his boat back and forth and it sat most of the time. From the way it was parked and the direction of the sun, my driver's side paint is in awful condition, my passenger side looks great.
 
@lumbee1 , here you go. I did two coats of each. after each coat of the tan, I lightly wiped the paint with a red scotchbrite to pull any paint dust off. Also, you can pull the cap off the clear and use it on the tan paint cans. Nozzle #4 seemed to work the best for me.

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@lumbee1 , here you go. I did two coats of each. after each coat of the tan, I lightly wiped the paint with a red scotchbrite to pull any paint dust off. Also, you can pull the cap off the clear and use it on the tan paint cans. Nozzle #4 seemed to work the best for me.

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I’ll be doing this exact sort of paint job eventually. After you wiped with the scotchbrite, did you wipe the surface with anything to pick up any small particle like maybe a tack clothe. I’m now auto body guy…….
 
Finally finished and put back together. @ Marco Lau, My glass guy was mistaken when he said he had two options for windshields...one of the ones he thought was an option was for an FJ Cruiser. The only option he located was a Fuyoa windshield. It's actually a nice piece of glass...clear, no waviness or distortion and has a sun glare reducer at the top that doesn't look bad and doesn't fall in the middle of your vision..

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Does windscreen installation absolutely require two people? I really like that Coastal bumper with tube guard but my older Warn won’t fit behind it and I’m not a fan of the winch being totally enclosed. Great looking bumper though.
 

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