FJ80 Major Help!

Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
32
Location
oc, california
So I recently became the proud owner of a 1992 LC and so far I have been trying my best to put in my labor but wow what a ride! Please and thank you

So I had a problem with battery so I went to pep boys and recommended a optima 31d , and please let me know what I should change or do different.
Added the battery, drove home parked came back 5 min and got the dreaded a/t temp light, ebrake light and alternator red light.. so I went off to autozone to pick up a duralast alternator🤨 .. (I also bought the higher amp alternator at Toyota dealership but need the rare bracket to hold it down... so if you know where I can find please pint me in the right direction)
Well after installing this I drove out to about 100miles and what do you know check engine light went off while driving and this time
And when I pulled over turned the car off .. I tried turning it back on and now it’s a crank no start...

I had also change the thermostat but still getting a leak only after I turn car off . not while it’s running
99563AAF-A9C1-4033-A532-5EA43BB946F9.jpeg
..

And of course the last of my problems is my power steering line is dripping and needs to be replaced... other than that I’m a happy cruiser🤯
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
9,275
Location
Plano texas
 
 
Hi, On the 1991 and 1992 if it cranks and doesn’t start check your Eli in the black fuse box under the hood. If the contacts look discolored get a new Eli. Also check or just buy new fuseable links at the battery. Mike
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
32
Location
oc, california
Thanks for the responses I’ll be doing both things right now , I’m going to clean them up and see if that works I’ll get back to you
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
9,082
Location
New Jersey
 
 
Just cleaned them up and still no fuel pump sound so I’m going to try replacing fuel pump
You need to stop now.
If the CEL does not illuminate with the key in the ON position, then the ECU is not in a "ready" state. There will be no spark. This engine WILL NOT RUN.
The fuel pump DOES NOT RUN with the key in the ON position.
The fuel pump ONLY runs while the starter is cranking and when the engine sucks air to open the flap in the AFM.

Your VERY FIRST STEP should be to check the 3 fusible links off the positive battery terminal. They each feed the sub systems of the vehicle.
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,365
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Just cleaned them up and still no fuel pump sound so I’m going to try replacing fuel pump
You do realize that the fuel pump does not run until the engine is CRANKING.....right?

Just turning on the key will not get a fuel pump running. You would have to jump across terminal.

Listen and follow whatever @jonheld says and do it in THAT order. He is the foremost authority on the 91-92 80 series trucks.


EDIT: He beat me to it.....
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
32
Location
oc, california
You do realize that the fuel pump does not run until the engine is CRANKING.....right?

Just turning on the key will not get a fuel pump running. You would have to jump across terminal.

Listen and follow whatever @jonheld says and do it in THAT order. He is the foremost authority on the 91-92 80 series trucks.


EDIT: He beat me to it.....

Thank you, won’t forget that!
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
32
Location
oc, california
You need to stop now.
If the CEL does not illuminate with the key in the ON position, then the ECU is not in a "ready" state. There will be no spark. This engine WILL NOT RUN.
The fuel pump DOES NOT RUN with the key in the ON position.
The fuel pump ONLY runs while the starter is cranking and when the engine sucks air to open the flap in the AFM.

Your VERY FIRST STEP should be to check the 3 fusible links off the positive battery terminal. They each feed the sub systems of the vehicle.
Ok just uploaded some pics to give more detail, and yes you are right CEL does not illuminate in the ON state.

image.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,365
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Based on how beat-up that blue wire is on the FL, I would get those changed out now matter what. That's a problem waiting to happen.

Check for continuity and resistance between the ends of the FL so you can at least keep trying.
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
32
Location
oc, california
Based on how beat-up that blue wire is on the FL, I would get those changed out now matter what. That's a problem waiting to happen.

Check for continuity and resistance between the ends of the FL so you can at least keep trying.
okay so I have to wait until tomorrow for fusable link but right now I’m checking the relay as john has stated in another post and these are my readings for the fuel pump relay.

Photos are in order 1-2-3-4

1DD4B28D-8FA2-46A6-8021-A3DB7C650317.jpeg


2497384C-E00A-4F7B-ACB4-9ADCFB526676.jpeg


1E0E8890-B313-4801-80D6-9E7D8FF71C90.jpeg


32A4B86A-DA65-47CE-9A8F-15459DF8CF72.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
260
Location
Utah Valley
okay so I have to wait until tomorrow for fusable link but right now I’m checking the relay as john has stated in another post and these are my readings for the fuel pump relay.
Hold up... My interpretation of:
Based on how beat-up that blue wire is on the FL, I would get those changed out now matter what. That's a problem waiting to happen.

Check for continuity and resistance between the ends of the FL so you can at least keep trying.
is to check the fusible links for conductivity (resistance being its opposite, electrically) and see if you have a smoking gun there.
Follow the advice to replace them, yes, but you can possibly rule them out as THE issue if they don't test bad. Which means the diagnosis could continue today.
 
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