Fj80 diff/ fj40 housing
- Thread starter sparky195
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The rear locking diff from an 80 has been put in the front of several different trucks. IIRC, it needs a special inner axle with longer splines and the housing need some mods.
PMK
PMK
I think there is a write up in the 60 section, maybe Lowtideride, it was a while ago!, lol
but a Hi Pinion fzj80 third will not work in a 40 or 60.
but a Hi Pinion fzj80 third will not work in a 40 or 60.
I have an 80 rear elocker in the front of my 55. (same housing as a 40)
To make the elocker work you need a long spline shaft from a 70 series or a Longfield 30 spline shaft. A couple other minor tweaks and it works fine.
The rears swap out straight across, but again you will need the long spline shafts. You might have to go full floater or full custom axle shaft to make that work. I just run an 80 rear axle in mine.
To make the elocker work you need a long spline shaft from a 70 series or a Longfield 30 spline shaft. A couple other minor tweaks and it works fine.
The rears swap out straight across, but again you will need the long spline shafts. You might have to go full floater or full custom axle shaft to make that work. I just run an 80 rear axle in mine.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
But you need the lockers " ECU " to run 'em or can engage with a normal switch ..
I remember saw a thread that make the e-locker manual .. with a cable.
I don't think that type of locker will work in a semi-floating rear end because of the c-clips, no?
How does the width of an '80 rear compare to a stock '40 rear? I know where there's one, but the price is too high to just get the third. It might be worth it if I got a FF and discs at the same time though...
Mine are cable actuated. I had way too many problems with the electrics. They are expensive, fragile and not happy with midwest mud.
You gain 8 inches, IIRC.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I'd be really interested in how you setup you cable actuation. I'll go pilfer through your posts to see if I can find it.
I have a 96 3rd that I'm putting up front, I'm using longfield 30 spline axles and have diagrams for wiring...but I agree, the water mud etc can trash those and then you have to rebuild if possible or buy used. I think the actuator new is $500+
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Gumby .. you can post a pic and show us how your setup looks and work ?
I can do that. The one I posted before didn't work as well as I'd hoped. The way I have it now works well and was really easy. It uses boat shifter cables that are exactly the same as shifter cables for a B&M or Hurst type automatic gear shifter.
I have some pics but I'm having issues getting them on the right camera with the right computer.
I drew it, poorly, in Paint.
a 3/16 plate replaces the actuator. A 1.5 inch hole is drilled in the plate and a 1.5 x 4 tube is welded in. Another chunk of plate is welded over the other end of the tube with a 3/8 hole in the center and a bolt tacked from the inside out just off center.
The cable flange bolts to that bolt with the cable going through the 3/8 hole. The eye end of the cable fits behind the actuator pin where the old worm gear pin went. I had to tack a nut on the back of the eye. The bolt goes through the actuator and into the eye of the cable.
The reasoning behind the tube is a spacer to locate the cable flange and it eliminates the need for a seal where the cable enters the diff.
I drew it, poorly, in Paint.
a 3/16 plate replaces the actuator. A 1.5 inch hole is drilled in the plate and a 1.5 x 4 tube is welded in. Another chunk of plate is welded over the other end of the tube with a 3/8 hole in the center and a bolt tacked from the inside out just off center.
The cable flange bolts to that bolt with the cable going through the 3/8 hole. The eye end of the cable fits behind the actuator pin where the old worm gear pin went. I had to tack a nut on the back of the eye. The bolt goes through the actuator and into the eye of the cable.
The reasoning behind the tube is a spacer to locate the cable flange and it eliminates the need for a seal where the cable enters the diff.
