FJ80 Axle swap budget - or frame swap?

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sticky iqqy iqqy

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So I picked up an FJ62 a couple months ago and I’m one of those people who likes to plan.

I’ve owned and built other Toyotas in the past but new to the 60 series. :) I’ve read for countless hours. I haven’t decided if I’m going to be changing the drivetrain OR maybe I should say what/when I’m changing the drivetrain to.

Swapping to FJ80 suspension, at least up front, seems really appealing. I know the easier option is to buy the mounts from Torfab and have those welded in.

What all is needed and approx cost?
Is it worth it to swap a non-locking front fj80 axle?

I’m asking because I found a line on an 1992 FJ80 that has some body damage from going off trail into a tree. It is fully stock and unlocked with 200k miles.

Frame seems good and rust free.
Trying to see if it’s worth buying it. I don’t want to make this a big part out project, just seeing if it’s worth buying and to understand the cost of doing the axle swap.
 
Im currently finishing a fzj80 frame swap on my 60. If you don't have a lift and your just in a 2 car garage, it would be extremely difficult to do the frame swap. I would do just the weld on kit to your 60 frame.
Why did you go for the frame swap over the weld on kit?

I have an outbuilding to work in fairly close to my house. It doesn’t currently have a lift… haha
 
Why did you go for the frame swap over the weld on kit?

I have an outbuilding to work in fairly close to my house. It doesn’t currently have a lift… haha

When I started the frame swap, I think the kit was just coming out. MY THINKIN AT THE TIME was that I would have to worry about the front geometry when welding in the brackets. I assume they would provide precise measurement so that this wouldn't be a issue but that is still multiple measurements to worry about. With the frame swap all you have to worry about is making sure the frame is squared and the right wheel base. This swap has taken me over 5 years to complete and I am still working on it. You got worry about remounting a drive train, fuel system, and brake lines. In my head the weld on brackets would be easier and get you on the road quicker.
 
The Torfab kit is 100 times easier.
Swapping the entire chassis really makes no sense unless you got both trucks for free, have a fully equipped shop with lift, and unlimited free time, and a skills to use it all
 
The Torfab kit is 100 times easier.
Swapping the entire chassis really makes no sense unless you got both trucks for free, have a fully equipped shop with lift, and unlimited free time, and a skills to use it all
Haha. I am now 100% sold on not doing the frame swap especially after @ryaneddy16’s very real world timeline. Feel like it would probably take me about that long if I didn’t give up along the way.

Ok so then next question, cost on doing the axle swap and parts needed from an FJ80?

Does it make sense at all to buy the wrecked 80?
Pros:
1. I have any part I could need from the 80
2. I could part out larger pieces from the 80 to recoup costs

Cons:
1. I’d have to deal with a non-rolling shell and storing it
2. I’d have more labor of parting.
3. Would add more things to the plate instead of just buying what I need.
 
Cons:
1. I’d have to deal with a non-rolling shell and storing it
2. I’d have more labor of parting.
3. Would add more things to the plate instead of just buying what I need.

No one can answer this other then you. No one know's the value of your free time/effort and space better than you :)
 
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No one can answer this other then you. Know one know's the value of your free time/effort and space better than you :)
Thank you for the perspective. I typically undervalue my free time and leads to not getting to what I really want. Ok. So will pass on the roller and look for axles when it’s time to do the swap.

Thanks for the real life thinking. :)
 
What is your intended use? The fj62/fj60 has great axles and brakes if in good shape. You can install leaf springs that ride pretty close to that of coils. Modern high end leaf springs ride nice. Be careful getting carried away by reading about frame swaps and axle swaps. Shops happily take people's money for those expensive mods and display it proudly when its not necessary. Sometimes it doesn't even make sense hardly at all depending on the platform and intended use. Such mods done as diy take money and time. Leaf springs are simple and reliable. Isn't that why you bought a land cruiser? Plus the 62 even has nice sway bars to go with them. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do some mods to the 62 axles if you want. Call up deaver springs and tell them the lift and type of ride you want. Add some nice shocks, and you'll have time and money for baseline repairs and modifications in other areas.
 
What is your intended use? The fj62/fj60 has great axles and brakes if in good shape. You can install leaf springs that ride pretty close to that of coils. Modern high end leaf springs ride nice. Be careful getting carried away by reading about frame swaps and axle swaps. Shops happily take people's money for those expensive mods and display it proudly when its not necessary. Sometimes it doesn't even make sense hardly at all depending on the platform and intended use. Such mods done as diy take money and time. Leaf springs are simple and reliable. Isn't that why you bought a land cruiser? Plus the 62 even has nice sway bars to go with them. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do some mods to the 62 axles if you want. Call up deaver springs and tell them the lift and type of ride you want. Add some nice shocks, and you'll have time and money for baseline repairs and modifications in other areas.

Sounds advice. I think sometimes I get carried away with reading all the mods people have done and how amazing they all are… haha.

I think what you mention is my path forward. There are a couple mechanical things that I need to fix and then might tackle some comfort and aesthetic issues I have while just enjoying it. Once I get to try it out and figure out what it’s not doing that I want it to, I’ll make a plan from there. :)
 
Just a disclaimer and my own personal experience......I bought my 84 with the original leaf springs on it, they were pretty clapped out. I installed the OME med light setup from Cruiser outfitters, it rode pretty good actually. Then installed the added leaf for the bumper and winch up front to make them heavy......considering these three setups, NONE of them rode ANYWHERE close to as good as the front coils ride on a 60! If you enjoy working on your rig yourself and have some skills its a no brainer. Rear 80 axles are expensive because they are easier to swap and everyone wants them. The fronts are the opposite. I am using the Trail Tailor front coil conversion kit and running leafs in the rear. Still fine tuning the rear because the front rides so good. Steering and overall feel completely changed for the better.
It is still a ton of work and the biggest upgrade I have done to my cruiser.
 
Another Trail Tailor kit user here. Im pretty sure the Torfab and TT kits are pretty similar as far as getting the coils and radius arms where they need to be.

I'm an idiot and got the swap done pretty quicky working an hour or 2 a few nights a week. If one were to have everything set up and ready it could be done in a busy weekend or two for sure.

There a a few threads on here to to reference the process (I wish I read them more thoroughly before lol)



I'm in North Seattle / Lynnwood if you want to see how a 60 rides with front Dobinsons coils, rear leafs and IMS shocks.
 
I'm curious if anyone else has found that using an 80 rear axle on a 60 results in a steering shift whenever torque is applied or reduced?

I installed an 80 axle on a 60 with leaf springs and its now a bear to keep pointed straight. Ride and alignment was fine before. Best guess is that the more inboard location of the 3rd member causes a side to side torque from the now angled drive shaft.
 
I'm curious if anyone else has found that using an 80 rear axle on a 60 results in a steering shift whenever torque is applied or reduced?

I installed an 80 axle on a 60 with leaf springs and its now a bear to keep pointed straight. Ride and alignment was fine before. Best guess is that the more inboard location of the 3rd member causes a side to side torque from the now angled drive shaft.
what did you do to your front axle ? the 80 rear is a few inches wider. You want to widen the front as well.
 
what did you do to your front axle ? the 80 rear is a few inches wider. You want to widen the front as well.
Front axle has the Tundra mod brakes. 80 rear is the perfect width with disc brakes and working park brake. Except the truck now lurches with torque on/off. Its a JDM with the 12HT and manual 5-speed, which greatly exaggerates the effect. Its so bad that I'm about to pull it out and go back to original with sketchy wheel spacers (which are an inch too narrow).
 
Front axle has the Tundra mod brakes. 80 rear is the perfect width with disc brakes and working park brake. Except the truck now lurches with torque on/off. Its a JDM with the 12HT and manual 5-speed, which greatly exaggerates the effect. Its so bad that I'm about to pull it out and go back to original with sketchy wheel spacers (which are an inch too narrow).

Do you have a regular open diff? What you have should be fine, the diff offset isn't your problem anyways. I have way more horsepower then you and have not had any issue like that until I removed my lunchbox locker
 
Do you have a regular open diff? What you have should be fine, the diff offset isn't your problem anyways. I have way more horsepower then you and have not had any issue like that until I removed my lunchbox locker
Sorry for the hijack, iqbal. Legit thought this was an 80 axle issue you might want to consider with your intended swap. Will try to shift Matt to my build thread:

"Ishmael - '89 HJ-61 JDM Camping Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ishmael-89-hj-61-jdm-camping-build.1300746/#post-14744505"

ARB diff. OMU heavy spring pack. SUA. Airbag assist. Pinion angle might be a little flat compared to the transfer case output flange.

What is causing the lurch then, Matt? If you're running power through an auto tranny, it may be softening the effect. 12HT is very jumpy.
 
Sorry for the hijack, iqbal. Legit thought this was an 80 axle issue you might want to consider with your intended swap. Will try to shift Matt to my build thread:

"Ishmael - '89 HJ-61 JDM Camping Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ishmael-89-hj-61-jdm-camping-build.1300746/#post-14744505"

ARB diff. OMU heavy spring pack. SUA. Airbag assist. Pinion angle might be a little flat compared to the transfer case output flange.

What is causing the lurch then, Matt? If you're running power through an auto tranny, it may be softening the effect. 12HT is very jumpy.
I agree with Matt, I have a non turbo LS but it’s easy to keep in line. I doubt it’s the axle itself
 
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