fj80 axel swap?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

muddogbob said:
Maybe someone could post a pic of an 80 shaft next to a 60 shaft?

When you see it, it's easy to tell which shaft is stronger. The tapered down SF 60 shafts will fail before the constant diameter 80 shaft.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1b.html
Click to expand...


no doubt I am sure they are stronger but we were talking about the e-locker and the front r&p...I wonder if the semi floater 80 series shaft also tapers down the like the 40/60 series. I think it would be easier and cheaper to upgrade to the above link with PIG axles then upgrading to a 80 series axle. Although I have heard a few people say they found cromo axles for the 80 and I am willing to bet that is one of the toughest axles you can make while keeping a cruiser axle under your truck.
 
Last edited:
ginericfj80 said:
High traction isn't the problem Loose traction and then sudden traction is the problem.
.
Click to expand...


Correct. But you will have that happen in higher traction areas. I have spent a week at tellico with a 45 that had 39.5s on stock axles. No breaks all week..Well from the rear axle anyway. I think the east coast just h as far less traction.
 
Hey Dabruin,
Personally, if you have access to the 80 axle, I say pick it up, then we'll go out on the trail and see if you we can break your 60 axle and give you an excuse to replace it with the 80 axle, I'll even help you with the work.
 
muddogbob said:
Maybe someone could post a pic of an 80 shaft next to a 60 shaft?

When you see it, it's easy to tell which shaft is stronger. The tapered down SF 60 shafts will fail before the constant diameter 80 shaft.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1b.html
Click to expand...
You know, if you read that article that you posted it says exactly the opposite of what you are trying to prove.




All it really comes down to is that they are all 30 spline. The only way to get good strength out of a 30 spline shaft is to make it out of a better material (design does help tho) That is why a set of Pigs axles front and rear is significantly stronger than a set of stock shafts.

FF shafts are not amazingly stronger than SF shafts.
A knecked down shaft does have superior design styles than a solid shaft. Most aftermarket shafts are solid due to cost considerations. Poly' s shafts are not. Which is kinda nice.
 
Traction breaks things. Sudden/total it does not matter. There is a reason mud guys get away with 44's and Dana 44's ;)
 
Mace said:
You know, if you read that article that you posted it says exactly the opposite of what you are trying to prove.
Click to expand...


I don't think so. The "taper" I am speaking about is not a uniform taper. It is a SHARP transition from large diameter to small diameter. This causes a Huge stress riser.

This is the design that PIG has eliminated by utilizing the uniform taper design to minimize the stress riser.
 
Sounds a bit high but in a reasonable range to me..

I still do not see a good reason to swap something that is 30 spline into your rig..

You could easily do a 9" for about the same cost and have it be 35 spline (that is doing a lot of the work yourself but..)
 
Last edited:
I don't thought that SF axles are less stronger that FF axles .. I thought ( and believe ) the real issue are the load capacity in FF axles .. and safety if you broke an axle ..

So it can be solved with rear disk brake conversion to hold the broke axle in the position and run with fron traction.
 
dabruin15 said:
I found a completly rebuilt rear from a 93 cruiser with the locker. He wants $800. Is that a good price?
Click to expand...


That's not too bad a price for a rebuilt one IMO. When I parted out my 60 a few months ago, I got $750 for my 80 series rear with e-locker. It was all cleaned up and had all new brake parts too though (I did not replace bearings or seals on it though as they looked decent...).

FWIW, reasons I swapped out my 60 series FF rear with e-locker for an 80 series FF rear with e-locker:

1- disc brakes WITH park brake

I'd do the same thing over again too if I got another 60, but I would skip swapping the stock semi float for the 60 series FF and go straight to swapping in the 80 series FF.

Of course, I never got to wheel with the 80 series rear under there... :frown:

Also, with my swap, I didn't care which is stronger (in stock form, there's no way that they are that much different in strength to make much of a difference). I was going for getting electric lockers and rear disc brakes under my 60 while sticking with Toyota axles/parts.

And then? Well, my 60 started to overtake me. I realized I was not in the correct financial position to get my 60 where I was trying to take it. I also realized that I was trying to make my 60 into a cruiser that was already available--an 80 series. (And I'm not going to get into a debate over 60s and 80s. I love 'em both, but the 80s gonna fit me better for the time being.) So anyway, when I realized what the hell I was doing, I parted it out. I miss some things about it, but not other things.

-Ferg-
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom