FJ62 rear wiper fix (for me) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

WoodnotRust

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Threads
24
Messages
322
Location
New Mexico, USA
I think I just did my first "two banana" job.

After coming back from the paint & body work I discovered my rear wiper no longer worked. To be honest, it only worked off-and-on before, but I'm on a mission to have every stinkin' part on this truck work as it's supposed to work. I'm almost there too.

I tested the motor by hooking it up to a cheap power supply and following the FSM - The motor works properly
My relay looks good, but I wasn't sure how to really test it. I could hear clicking on high and nothing on intermittent.
I bought a $15 used switch on EBAY and it still didn't work
Finally, I ran a ground wire from the motor to the battery and BINGO...the wiper works great. Then I moved the wire from the battery to a ground near the rear washer bag (on a relay) and it still worked great. So...the problem was a broken ground between the lift gate and the body of the truck.

Solution, run a new ground wire from the body of the wiper motor to a ground bolt on the body of the truck (doing it is the two banana part):

1. Remove the rubber boot that connects the lift gate wiring on the drivers side.
2. Make a loop in the new ground wire and insert it into the lift gate with a stiff wire. Push it toward the motor and then use another wire with a hook to fish out the loop from the motor side.

Tip: tape up the ground wire loop really well, but loosely tape the ground wire to the "push wire". That way when you hook onto it you can pull it off the push wire. I also used my phone camera and a flash to confirm the location of the wire loop.

3. tape-up a push wire to blunt the end and push it though the rubber boot so you can fish the wire back through the boot.
4. Using the same loop technique, push the wire through the hole near the rubber boot along the roofs edge toward the driver's side rear vent. Try to keep the wire toward the back of the truck, or it will disappear somewhere under the head liner. If the push wire you taped your ground-wire is just flexible enough it will drop down the side and you can open the exterior rear vent and fish it out.
5. Attach ring connectors to the wire and screw to body of motor and to nut on the truck.

Fishing this wire through for me was a challenge, but I did it so I know just about anyone can. So...OK. I've seen lots of people do stuff I couldn't dream of doing so I'm sure there is an easier way.

IMG_0091.jpeg


IMG_0094.jpeg


IMG_0096.jpeg


IMG_0103.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Final photos showing wire fished through side vent and then attached to motor and body. I wasn't able to loosen the screw on the wiper motor where the old ground is attached, so I screwed the wire to the other side of the motor (see yellow fitting).

IMG_0104.jpeg


IMG_0106.jpeg


IMG_0107.jpeg
 
My cargo light doesn't go on in the back when the hatch is lifted and the hatch lock doesn't work with the power locks. Perhaps I should be chasing a bad ground somewhere. Nice write up, thanks for sharing.
 
Hi @surfcraft3 . The power lock wiring runs down the passenger side and I found one of those wires was severed previously, along with the washer hose, where these enter the truck just past the rubber boot. You can probably open the small (two screw) portal on the lift gate where the connector is located and the rear (passenger side) vent to check continuity between the wires and the leads on the connector? In that case it wasn't the ground, but the power to the locks.

I also found that my door power locks were not working well and some not at all. I lubricated the mechanisms inside the door with lithium penetrating grease and now they all work fine. You might take the opportunity to lubricate your mechanisms inside the lift gate if you have it exposed.

Good luck!
 
My cargo light doesn't go on in the back when the hatch is lifted and the hatch lock doesn't work with the power locks. Perhaps I should be chasing a bad ground somewhere. Nice write up, thanks for sharing.
my cargo light stopped working as well. unfortunately there is a wire up inside the headliner. mine broke above the rubber hose going from the hatch to the truck roof. had to peel the corner of my headliner open to get it and fix it. i’ll still have to reglue it back but it’s a bit of a job to be sure. ill be chasing my rear wiper wiring again soon. mine stopped after body work too. hoping a simple ground wire like described here will fix it.
 
Good work. By doing this you also created a good electrical bond between the vehicle body and the lift gate, which will help slow down any electrolytic corrosion as well.
 
Thanks, my rear wiper doesn't work and I started chasing it down until I got sidetracked on other items, this may explain why it didn't seem to make sense.
 
well i ran a new ground tonight and still no joy. i wonder if i have a switch problem.
6F64C4DE-D62F-417B-8046-0AC7A48A3B28.jpeg
E8C0B3BC-9EF5-4823-95C2-EC612A7E1DD5.jpeg


my relay looked good and i also swapped it out for another one that was apparently working. i have also tested the motor to know it was working. so now i test the switch i guess unless someone else can think of where my issue might be. 🤷‍♂️
 
well i ran a new ground tonight and still no joy. i wonder if i have a switch problem. View attachment 2889212View attachment 2889213

my relay looked good and i also swapped it out for another one that was apparently working. i have also tested the motor to know it was working. so now i test the switch i guess unless someone else can think of where my issue might be. 🤷‍♂️
Go down the harness, checking for continuity from section to section. That's how I found what made my fuel pump stop on Christmas Eve after going through the entire troubleshooting process.
 
Go down the harness, checking for continuity from section to section. That's how I found what made my fuel pump stop on Christmas Eve after going through the entire troubleshooting process.
Good morning @franklin40 . Very nice looking ground wire job. Question: Did you simply hook up a test ground wire from the wiper motor to the battery and then test the motor using the switch/relay as you would in a normal operation? Doing that test will confirm that your relay and switch work and confirm that the ground wire (somewhere) is the problem...at that point, it was just a matter of locating the broken ground between the motor and the battery.

I'm thinking that a ground is a ground as long as it gets back to the battery, but maybe it needs to also feed through the relay? I connected my ground to the body closer to the washer bag on the motor side of the relay (see middle pic on thread #2), where you appear to have connected the ground to the relay itself? If there is a ground that exits the relay and doesn't connect to the body (broken) then maybe you aren't getting a circuit?? I realize I'm exposing my e-ignorance to those like @Spook50 that know better.

I have the extra switch I bought on eBay and I can send it to you if you think that's is really the problem. PM me if that appears to be the case.
 
thanks. i think where i ground it is good because my done light became brighter too! i’ve essentially made a better ground for all electricals in there!

i didn’t actually test anything. last night as i thought this was a simple thing to do to see if it made my difference. unfortunately it didn’t. now i have to get my head wrapped around the switch negative wiring of this circuit and test all aspects

i was hoping but no luck! it worked before body work. i have played around with my dash since then doing work elsewhere. maybe i disconnected something by accident. cant see how but maybe 🤔. the light comes on on the switch so i know it’s getting power. doesn’t mean it’s switching things properly though. i’ll figure it out. i just attack this problem every 6 months or so so i forget what i’ve done already!!

by the way i don’t recommend adding the ground wire to the screw i put mine on. the square nut the screw goes into fell into the motor housing (twice 😫) and i had to take the whole motor out and open it up to get that nut out. there’s a big magnet in there!! just leave them alone!! find a different place to ground to!!
 
This has been on my list for two years. At some point somebody installed a mysterious epoxy-sealed black box for a tow harness behind the driver's side cargo area. The wiring is a mess and I've only gotten halfway through chasing everything. I also have a LARGE rear quarter rust hole so water and dirt fly in there all the time. I took all the harness connects apart, cleaned the contacts, and sealed the connections with a ton of electrical tape. Not a permanent fix obviously, but something for now.

I get 12V to the rear quarter wire when I turn on the rear wiper switch, but not to the wiper motor in the tailgate hatch, so I'm thinking my 12V lead is broken in there. Of course it's a pain in the ass to get inside the D-pillar. One day, I swear to you, I will finish chasing the issue. This post gives me hope and inspiration.
 
i wonder if that’s the same for me. the power wire may be broken. i jumped the motor off a separate battery to make sure it worked maybe it’s that simple. i’ll check that on mine next! that’s the most likely place for a wire to break i’d guess…. at the hatch hinge.
 
At some point I want to make a small 12V supply. Something more manageable in size than a spare auto battery. I can't imagine the current needs for most testing are that high (mostly testing smog-related vac valves and small motors over here). I was thinking an array of 9V or D batteries with a small voltage regulator. Stick it in a little 4"x3"x2" Hammond enclose for a more lightweight test rig. Because it only gets hooked up for brief tests it should last a long time. You could even install an LED that would turn on when the circuit is completed by a working device - an indicator light that says "circuit good". Get yourself some alligator clips and you're good to go. Sorry for the side track!

Anyway, I think the key is getting a new 12V lead from wiper motor to the harness behind the driver's side tail light. Ground continuity tests good from the motor, so I have that going for me!
 
Rarely it's a broken wire. If it is, it's likely to be at a place like a hinge or where the wire gets bent back and forth. Most of the electrical problems I've had on the 60 are dirty connectors or rusty grounds. For example the contacts in the dome light where the bulb fits. I've cleaned them with nail files and a few weeks later, no dome light. Last time I cleaned it, I coated it with dielectric grease and it's seems to have fixed it. So now I coat every connection with it AFTER it's connected.
 
i wonder if that’s the same for me. the power wire may be broken. i jumped the motor off a separate battery to make sure it worked maybe it’s that simple. i’ll check that on mine next! that’s the most likely place for a wire to break i’d guess…. at the hatch hinge.
A broken wire at the hinge s a real possibility. I never discovered where my ground wire was broken, but I had earlier repaired a broken wire on the other side for the power lock. The washer hose was broken in that location too. Check the power wire...

I bought a small electrical power supply for bench testing that allows you to adjust voltage, etc. Maybe more high tech than what everyone needs, but it does the job perfectly in the garage and is versatile.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom