Fj62 power steering pump hose

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tmxmotorsports

tmxmotorsports

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Jul 3, 2016
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Ok mud I have an issue my 89fj62 has sprung a major leak the hydrologic line that is right after the hard line that comes out of the pump. I have fumbled around on the forum to see how everyone else has fixed this. On mine right after the hard line out of the pump it makes a hard 90 back amd then down to the frame I am assuming that all 62's are like this and hoping there is a thread about it somewhere. I have contacted mr.T and it is NLA and if it was it retails for over 700 dollars.... My local carquest can make hydrologic lines but they only have standard fittings no metric fittings and would have to put a compression fitting on the hard line and cut my hose and crimp a fitting onto that. I have used compression fittings on a couple of v8 swaps from chevy to toyota. maybe I can find something better from summit or jegs just trying to get this done asap as it is my dd but I do have my pos 91 honda civic. Anyways thanks in advance for insight and suggestions.
Tommy
 
O yeah pics because we all like pics
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Are they different to FJ60?
 
This is a bad problem to have. Sorry. Fix is to replace the line. I bought one from my LAPS 2 years ago. It was aluminum instead of the OEM steel.

It is all one assembly and requires removing the radiator support, or lifting the front of the body (clip) up 6" or so to fit the new line in on the top of the frame. Some owners have replaced it with custom cut flex line. This will reduce the cooling capacity of the line. Individual results will vary.

Good luck!
 
Thanks @Juggernaught I think I may have found one its not oem but it's the entire line looks to be aluminum hard line and its just over 100 bucks.
 
Well after googling the crap out of my phone I found it from partsgeek just over 100 bucks then I kept digging ebayed it again using a different search I think I had to many words I found it from just over 100 bucks down to 50 something shipped looked at the seller info and it is auto zone so I called auto zone and BAM special order 42.99 plus tax should be here by Saturday. I hope it is the same it looks like it. Will give mud an update on this when it arrives with pics and part numbers if it correct and maybe some pics of the replacement install. I am going to try to replace it without removing the radiator but if I can't I will pull it and do the fan shroud mod and I should probably go ahead and do the oil galley plug I have had the tap and ss plugs for a couple months now.
 
In the future, PSC sells fittings to convert the M16-1.5 threads in the steering box and pump to -06 AN. Then you need two 90 degree fittings and some hose.

(The low pressure fitting on the steering box is M17-1.5, PSC sells this adapter as well if you want to make your return line AN as well)
 
Well I dug into this today. It was a PITA. This is how I did it:
I bought a Gates complete FJ62 replacement hose from RockAuto.com
You will need:
12mm open end
12mm socket
10mm socket
14mm deep socket
14mm open end
phillips screwdriver
17mm open end
jack
I used a pickle fork as a lever to lift the body off the frame


1-Remove grill
2-Remove center radiator support
3-Remove External Transmission Cooler Lines (optional)
4-Unbolt all anchor tabs and each end of the hose
5-remove front valance
6-Remove bumper (I did this to give myself more space, and honestly I don't think I could have removed and replaced the hose with the bumper still attached)
7-Unbolt front body mounts (,move the cooland overflow tank out of the way. I read a post where the person claimed that this was not necessary. I got confident after reading that, however it is necessary if you are going to complete this job.)
8-Jack up the body until you can wiggle, pry, twist, hammer, pull, or rip that thing out of there.
9-After I got the old one out I tried to get the new one in
10-The kit I bought had replacement anchor tabs because the ones on the old line are tack welded together
11- Slide everything into place and use the new tabs to anchor the front. I tried to clean up all the usable Toyota tabs a little and put the rubber grommet back in and start bolting the hard line of the hose back down to the frame.
12-start putting everything else back together in reverse order of removal

I'll mention that threading the new hose into the pump and gear box was not easy with the hose either putting the threads a little off kilter or just out of flush. Be persistent...maybe a good time to grab a beer.
Since I've had a leak for so long, much of my bolts and frame have been very well preserved and I don't have to fight with much rust.
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Last edited:
Good write up. Your thread might be the first to detail this repair.
 
I don;t have this problem yet but visually I can tell it is on the way. Do you really have to separate the body from the frame to perform this? It just doesn't seem like the most practical way.
 
Saucerman said:
I don;t have this problem yet but visually I can tell it is on the way. Do you really have to separate the body from the frame to perform this? It just doesn't seem like the most practical way.
Click to expand...
Just have to lift it up some to get to the bolts under the core support.
 
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