Fj62 electrical issue, looking for answers :) (1 Viewer)

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Jul 27, 2020
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Fairbanks, Alaska
Problem: Blower motor and dash lights stay on regardless of ignition position until the rear hatch is opened.

Concussion: There must be a short somewhere.

The above issue occurs very randomly, although the rear dome light consistently changes in intensity, as the hatch is opened. Here is a video I shot in a hurry for a friend. I figure I may as well post it here. Edit: probably shouldn't post my license plate on a public forum...

I've been into the hatch to replace the rear washer hose and didn't see anything wrong in there. I'm just not sure where to start troubleshooting this... Maybe I can probe something at the fuse box?

Also, does anybody know where the sensor for the rear dome light is? I've been unable to find it so far.
 
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Kleatus

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Jun 6, 2012
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Missouri
The hatch light flickering with hatch movement was a ground issue on mine. I solved that using a wire with ring terminals on each end under the studs on one of the struts to give the hatch a good body ground. I didn't have the other issues you mention though.
 
Joined
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Fairbanks, Alaska
The hatch light flickering with hatch movement was a ground issue on mine. I solved that using a wire with ring terminals on each end under the studs on one of the struts to give the hatch a good body ground. I didn't have the other issues you mention though.

Thanks, I'll have to try that and see if it changes anything.
 
Joined
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Boulder, Co
Check your grounds. I have an issue with pulsing lights and my blower varies in intensity. Started when I changed my battery recently and pulled the ground terminal connector from the wire. I have new battery cables to fix this problem.
 
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Fairbanks, Alaska
Check your grounds. I have an issue with pulsing lights and my blower varies in intensity. Started when I changed my battery recently and pulled the ground terminal connector from the wire. I have new battery cables to fix this problem.

Good to know, I plan on going replacing the main under hood wiring this summer, if I have my other Yota running.

I was hoping this was a common issue that somebody had a quick fix for... Trouble shooting wiring sucks at 20 below, I guess I can't get lucky everytime though :/
 
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Good to know, I plan on going replacing the main under hood wiring this summer, if I have my other Yota running.

I was hoping this was a common issue that somebody had a quick fix for... Trouble shooting wiring sucks at 20 below, I guess I can't get lucky everytime though :/
FYI. I changed out my cables to the ones 4Runner makes. They are incredible. Maybe nicer than the truck itself! The power certainly seems more consistent but I’m still having issues with my dome light flickering. It could be a problem in the switch wiring itself.

B44DD43D-9F5E-4B75-BC7A-2F5D3494C9A4.jpeg


8957C68F-2654-4258-902F-77D01E83BE78.jpeg


I’ll change my alternator and ignition coil next to see if that levels out my voltage.
 
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Harpers Ferry, WV
I don't have a lot to add, but man that's a weird issue. The dash lights should have a common ground behind the instrument cluster. There's a sorda mini bus where all the cables push in. It can start melting pretty easily apparently. It's just really weird that the opening the rear hatch stops everything. I can't for the life of me think of why that would have any effect.
 
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Plano texas
Hi, When that happens on mine it’s usually a bad switch in the door and or bad light fixture. If your cruiser has rust issues check all your grounds. Any water leaks from the drip edge getting into the cruiser and down to the fuse panel by your left foot? Mike
 
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Fairbanks, Alaska
Hi, When that happens on mine it’s usually a bad switch in the door and or bad light fixture. If your cruiser has rust issues check all your grounds. Any water leaks from the drip edge getting into the cruiser and down to the fuse panel by your left foot? Mike

Mike, you might be on to something.
When I bought the cruiser and pulled the carpet the drivers side footboard was rusted clear through. Zero rust anywhere else on the vehicle. It was obvious it had rusted from the inside out. I didn't even think about the electrical components in the floor board area. I'll dig into that when my new radiator shows up, and I can justify taking over the garage for a weekend!

PXL_20200920_194137911.NIGHT.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
FYI. I changed out my cables to the ones 4Runner makes. They are incredible. Maybe nicer than the truck itself! The power certainly seems more consistent but I’m still having issues with my dome light flickering. It could be a problem in the switch wiring itself.

View attachment 2533620

View attachment 2533621

I’ll change my alternator and ignition coil next to see if that levels out my voltage.

Gosh those are Purdy! I planned on making my own with "arctic grade" wire, but they wouldn't come out that nice! My voltage seems fine, but with 400w on highbeams and another 400-600w of lights planned later this summer, I picked up another alternator to replace my smog pump. I've got big plans for the underhood electronics, (dual battery's, Webesto style coolant heater, and other luxurious items) but that all relies on getting my 2l diesel thumpin again :)
 
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Gosh those are Purdy! I planned on making my own with "arctic grade" wire, but they wouldn't come out that nice! My voltage seems fine, but with 400w on highbeams and another 400-600w of lights planned later this summer, I picked up another alternator to replace my smog pump. I've got big plans for the underhood electronics, (dual battery's, Webesto style coolant heater, and other luxurious items) but that all relies on getting my 2l diesel thumpin again :)
Do consider these cables. They are indeed purdy! I ordered the abrasion sleeves and I’m glad I did. It takes some muscling around to get them to bend where you want them to go. Fourrunner glues everything together under the heat shrink. They are super HD and would be my number one suggestion to anyone needing cables. Unless you have the tools to make them yourself you won’t find a better product and even still...
 
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Dallas Texas
Alright, about the 3-4th thread talking about the fourrunner cables. Can someone share a link? My heart bleeds as I read through these issues. I’ve got a little of all of these mentioned issues. Dash lights dim each blink of the relay for turn signals, but that’s the only interior “short”. I need main battery and second battery setup. Have a 5.3 swap that was done proper in 2014 and then an ass in California took real good care of it for 6 years. He managed to screw up a proper swap so bad I’m having to untangle the mess. Me to mechanic that was “expert”, hey why’d you tie 2 toggle switches between the ECU and the coils, cause they said that’d bypass the engine shutting down. Me to expert, do you think it may be shutting down for a reason, uuhhh.” So this is the 20 questions games I’m in now. Took to LS shop and said look at it like someone really messed up, tear it back to where is looks normal, $1000 in labor later we have a smooth running truck with minor cleanup. About another $1000 in labor and wires to go.
 
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Messages
1,342
Location
Boulder, Co
Alright, about the 3-4th thread talking about the fourrunner cables. Can someone share a link? My heart bleeds as I read through these issues. I’ve got a little of all of these mentioned issues. Dash lights dim each blink of the relay for turn signals, but that’s the only interior “short”. I need main battery and second battery setup. Have a 5.3 swap that was done proper in 2014 and then an ass in California took real good care of it for 6 years. He managed to screw up a proper swap so bad I’m having to untangle the mess. Me to mechanic that was “expert”, hey why’d you tie 2 toggle switches between the ECU and the coils, cause they said that’d bypass the engine shutting down. Me to expert, do you think it may be shutting down for a reason, uuhhh.” So this is the 20 questions games I’m in now. Took to LS shop and said look at it like someone really messed up, tear it back to where is looks normal, $1000 in labor later we have a smooth running truck with minor cleanup. About another $1000 in labor and wires to go.

Read that and send him a PM.
Just realized that’s that fj40 thread, but he makes cables for the 60’s, and I believe he can make custom stuff for you too.
 

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