FJ62 - Electrical Drain (1 Viewer)

[bam]

Hi all,

First off, let me just say thanks for the community here. I just picked my my first Land Cruiser (1988 FJ62), and the forums here have been great place to read, learn, and even helped solved some of my problems so far (locating and verifying engine timing!). But I'm posting today cause I a problem I wasn't able to search out the answer to.

It seems the battery in my FJ62 likes to drain very easily, if I got a week without running the truck, I'll come back to a dead battery. I don't think its a simple case of old worn battery, as the battery itself checks out. I'm thinking there seems to be something wrong to due with my ignition switch and the accessory setting. My thinking for this is due to the front LED clock always staying on, even with the truck off, and key removed from igitinifion, that's not normal right? Second, when I turn the truck off, remove the key from the ignition and open the door, the truck buzzes like I've left the key in the ignition.

So my guess is that there's something wrong with the ignition switch that leaves the acc set to on and is draining the battery. Doe this make sense, is this a good guess? Or should I be looking else where to try and see what's draining the battery?

 

[Output Shaft]

Try removing the rear hatch light assembly and see if that helps. Parasitic battery drain on FJ62s isn't rare. The ECU is constantly being energized. So is the clock. Once a car battery is discharged too deeply a few times, it's pretty much toast. It'll take a charge but won't have much capacity.

I have another car that has a strong parasitic drain too. Older Subaru. The nature of that beast. There is a battery to battery trickle charger available that can keep your vehicle fully charged by using another (easier to carry) 12v battery as the source. I use two small U1 sized AGM batteries connected together as the source. They only weigh 25 lbs ea. I recharge them every three weeks so they don't get too discharged. This works well if you don't have 120vac near the cruiser to connect a trickle charger.

It's called the Optimate TM500

 

[BG_TX]

I ignored a parasitic draw for about 2 years... yeah, I'm that lazy. I eventually got around to checking which circuit was causing the draw and isolated it to the CIG circuit (lighter and/or radio). I removed the fuse until I had some time to tear into the dash... with the fuse removed the truck could sit for a week+ without drain, prior it would drain enough to not turnover after 2-3 days. The dash clock is always on and minimal drain - not enough to prevent starting after a week. 1hr of 'work' (fix cig ground) vs 2+ years of plugging in a battery tender - yeah, I'm that lazy.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

.. Second, when I turn the truck off, remove the key from the ignition and open the door, the truck buzzes like I've left the key in the ignition.

So my guess is that there's something wrong with the ignition switch that leaves the acc set to on and is draining the battery...

Sounds like you're not turning the ignition all the way off, just turning it to accessory. Gotta turn it two clicks over. The key shouldn't come out at the accessory position, but it does. My wife did that once too.

 

[CSteppe82]

Make sure the button on the top is pushed down when you release the key. My key is worn and my gf drives it without turning it to the correct position when she turns it off and the same thing happens

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

ig switch.

 

[bam]

Thanks, I've tried making sure I've got the key in the off position, but the play in the ig switch is pretty loose. I'll check the button on the top of the steering column to make sure it's pushed down when I release the key.

 

[hj 60]

I just got a new old-stock alternator and the rectifier bridge was shorted out (burned wire at voltage regulator - minus) so then it drains (will open and remove it later for the FSM test)
Now for 3 days same voltage: 12.8
Really happy to not spend time with the charger anymore and I had a quick release plug in the grill to not open the hood.
I gave my drained "old" batteries to a friend and he could park his hj for weeks without problem

The FSM has a few test also for the voltage regulator but I have a 1995 HJ60 so might be different:
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - 24V glow,alternator,dome,buzzer,battery, electrics

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Mine 89 has a heavy parasitic draw as well but it's totally down for other work so I haven't chased it down yet. I know at least part of it is a remote starter (that I will tear out) and a very old alarm system that may or may not be still active (wired) but I'll tear that out too. Likely not your issue but thought I'd throw it out there.

I think it's Eric The Car Guy on YouTube that has a video showing how to chase down parasitic draw with a simple ammeter.

Eric

 

[bam]

Whelp, looks like it was my fault. Pressed the small button on top of the steering column and wouldn't you know it, the key rotated another notch and when I pulled it out it turned off all the accessories. I feel a bit foolish, if I remember correctly my old wrangler had something similar to this but closer to the actual ignition switch. For the life of me I can't remember the purpose of this feature.
Anyway thanks everybody for all the support. I haven't started her since Monday so I'll give it a try tomorrow and hopefully will find I won't have to jump the battery!

 

[SteveH]

Sounds like your key may be badly worn, if it can be removed in the ACC position.

The idea of the 'push button to remove key' feature is that if you panic on the highway with a 'runaway vehicle' (like that could ever happen with an FJ60!), and turn off the key, the steering wheel will not lock, allowing you to continue to steer the vehicle with the engine off.