Fj62 Curtains

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I mentioned these in my sleeping platform thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/567573-got-my-sleeping-platform-drawers-started.html but I wanted to start a new thread for them.

Here's an album of what I've done so far. They're made out of 10oz canvas. My wife sewed them up for me after making some patterns from scratch. The snaps are riveted in around the windows with 1/8" rivets. The buttons are just heavy duty nickel snaps from the local craft store.

There's more pictures but my iphone has a broken screen and I couldn't send them to myself to load into the album. I also need to finish the windshield curtain that will snap to the side curtains.

I wanted something that went all the way up and around the dash to keep as much space as possible and not make it too cramped in there.

I don't know if there'd be any interest, or if you guys even like the idea but it'd be super easy to make more of them for a nominal fee. Of course you'd have to rivet the snaps in, but that'd be it.

Let me know what you think.

Album: FJ62 Curtains - Imgur
 
Nice! They look good. Riveting in the snaps is a pretty easy solution to getting them up there.
 
Nice! They look good. Riveting in the snaps is a pretty easy solution to getting them up there.

It really did turn out the way I wanted it. The biggest thing for me was wasted space. A lot of curtain set ups you see on here seem to be really bulky and either waste the space next to the window, or don't allow you to still use that area effectively.

In the future though, I think I may sew on one more layer of fabric to make it block a little more light. It's nice right now, but just a little darker would be nice.
 
Great work with the snaps. Here is what I did in my 80
Nylon Rope and Bungie Hooks
19.jpg

Test Fit
20.jpg

Small holes in the plastic for the hooks
23.jpg

Final Look
26.jpg

27.jpg

And don't forget the screens to keep the bugs out. Magnets hot glued to screen material.
35.jpg
 
No vehicle installed hardware yet, but I came up with simple low profile posts that could hold the end of a bungee cord. Basically it is a small pan head machine screw with a stack of fender and regular washers on it with a nylon lock nut to secure it. The parts I got from McMaster-Carr They are stainless steel. As you can see from the images the fender washer is only 3/4" in diameter. I picked up few different lengths of machine screws as in a couple spots I figured that I would need to have two bungee cords attached to one post. The machine screw shown is the longest I got and it would work for the two bungee cord spots. The other reason I picked up different lengths is because the plastic interior pieces these will be attached to have different thicknesses. I'm sandwiching the interior plastic between two fender washers to spread the load to stabalize the stud, and to hopefully keep it from cracking the plastic. I'm using a stack of small outside diameter washers for spacing between the fender washers because of thickness flexibility, and cost. It is much cheaper than buying pre cut tubes, or buying a tube and cutting it into lengths myself.

As for the bungee cords to attach to these, I'm planning on getting something around 1/8" in diameter. Seattle Fabrics has 3mm diameter bungee cords in many colors: Seattle Fabrics Elastic BTW, these guys also have no-see-um screening and camo fabrics by the yard. To make loops in the ends of the bungee cords I'm figuring on using tightly wound hard wire to hold the end in a eye loop.

Photos show the bolt and washer arrangement built up on the end of a ruler.
stud-top.webp
stud-side.webp
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Curtains look nice

Your curtains look really nice. I haven't slept in my cruiser before but I imagine that my first concern would be ventilation while keeping the bugs out. I hate trying to sleep and hearing mosquito's buzzing around my head and ears. This means I would want tightly fitted screening on several windows for all but winter camping. I would also want curtains that would give privacy but let the air flow through.

If winter, I would keep the screens but would also add insulated curtains to help hold in heat at night. Maybe quilted winter curtains and lighter open weave summer ones. Screens that would permanently attach to the rear slider windows.

Just some ideas.
 
As for the bungee cords to attach to these, I'm planning on getting something around 1/8" in diameter. Seattle Fabrics has 3mm diameter bungee cords in many colors: Seattle Fabrics Elastic BTW, these guys also have no-see-um screening and camo fabrics by the yard. To make loops in the ends of the bungee cords I'm figuring on using tightly wound hard wire to hold the end in a eye loop.

I tried bungee cord and the canvas curtains were too heavy for them so I bought the nylon rope at HD for $3 instead.
 
I tried bungee cord and the canvas curtains were too heavy for them so I bought the nylon rope at HD for $3 instead.
OK, that is good to know. Sounds like paracord would also be an option. I've got that on hand. I was thinking of using a relatively light weight nylon fabric, or something plain and real cheap off the Wal-Mart discount rack.
 
For your winter curtains for a saving on weight and volume you can sandwich mylar (think shiny emergency blanket) between two pieces of fabric, it does really well as a thermal barrier. If you want ultralight material I found Quest Outfitters - Outdoor Fabrics sells lots of different types typically found in outdoor gear.

When I first joined the military we took two woobies and sandwiched mylar between them then added snaps along the edge. Works great as a lightweight bivy bag for field excursions. Even with the jump in technology with military sleeping bags I found I still used the idea (over the years they were given away) while on patrols overseas.
 
Seattle Fabrics has a nylon with a reflective layer bonded to it. Costly...

I was thinking of making my curtains as a pocket with inside and outside fabrics. In between I could slip some reflective bubble insulation. A Mylar sheet cut from a space blanket could be sewn in there too. I've often run across packs of 4 to 10 space blankets for less than $1 per space blanket.
 
You guys are wasting your time with insulated curtains. There will be such an air gap at the top and bottoms of the curtains because you can't get them tight to the windows that you will have cold air coming in regardless. And I would use canvas and not cheap material to keep it darker.
 
i think that would depend entirely on the design of the curtains, as for cheap material, i'm not exactly sure what you're talking about. But I will agree that canvas is excellent for its light blocking qualities.
 
duvetyne is better at light blocking, but may give the back of your truck a bit of a theatre look.:lol: It's often used as backdrops on stages as it has very very good light blocking qualities. Even a light weight 9oz per yard variety blocks most light, where as a 16oz per yard is near total light blockage.

As for air gaps. It all depends on how you mount them. Using top and bottom cords it looks like there wouldn't be an air gap for the rear side windows in my 4runner. The tailgate window would take careful placement of the mounts and it would seal at the top and bottom. Rear passenger seat windows are a little harder. Adding a 2" extension to the bottom would allow them to seal. The best spot for the bottom line is a bit above the top of the molding below the window. ront seat side windows would take a bit longer extension, but still doable. The windshield ends up with a gap at the top, but the bottom could easily be sitting on the dash.

Another thing is the reflective surface from the space blankets or bubble foil insulation will reflect heat without regard to any other features or lack there of.
 
I'm figuring I'll be using some Velcro straps to bunch up the back curtains on their lines either all the way forward or back when not in use. The reflective bubble insulation would only be inserted when needed. It would store folded or rolled up. Many trips it could stay home as it wouldn't be needed.
 
Bogo said:
I'm figuring I'll be using some Velcro straps to bunch up the back curtains on their lines either all the way forward or back when not in use. The reflective bubble insulation would only be inserted when needed. It would store folded or rolled up. Many trips it could stay home as it wouldn't be needed.

Yeah I just don't see it happening with the insulation. They will never stay tight to the side to keep cold air out while windows are open and be able to slide open to look out at anytime.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD App
 

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