FJ60 R134 conversion from R12 (1 Viewer)

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A more secure connection where they still have a single tiny green O-ring.. :lol:
 
One thing that I do when I charge a system is to add dye. This makes finding a leak in the future much easier.
 
Worked for Ford back in the day. Had a buddy who worked in climate control. He said an engineer in the office was awarded a patent for going from one o-ring to two at the joints. I think these were the plasticy BS push/click connections. A legit metal threaded fitting will do fine with one o-ring.

I've got a Mazda engineered Kia built POS out sitting in the weeds. Threaded aluminum fittings, being a 94 it's R134 from the factory. Has never had refrigerant added blows cold.
 
There is a charge amount difference between 12 and 134. IIRC, They hold roughly 1.7lbs of R12, the conversion for R134 is supposed to be about 75% of that. When I did mine last week, it was happiest with only 1lb of R134, so keep that in mind as well. Just don’t put the same amount of 134 in as 12 came out.
I was born without inherent knowledge of this and many other automotive things but I'm subbornly tyring to learn on my 87 FJ60... is there a link you can share on a kit that works. Preferably with one with directions, pictures a bonus. The videos I find are for much newer or different vehicles so for me its like they are in greek and I'm trying to translate.
 
If you look at the TSB (technical service bulletin) that was posted, it has contains some part numbers for conversion kits. I haven't personally tried ordering any though.
 
I was born without inherent knowledge of this and many other automotive things but I'm subbornly tyring to learn on my 87 FJ60... is there a link you can share on a kit that works. Preferably with one with directions, pictures a bonus. The videos I find are for much newer or different vehicles so for me its like they are in greek and I'm trying to translate.
You can get the conversion at any parts store. It’s essentially just fittings that go on the compressor. It’s like $30. You can also get PAG oil with dye there as well.
 
mine has been converted for at least 10 years probably...no major issues. where I'm from (japan) the general rule is to replace the receiver and dryer in addition to converting to 134a. and changing the orings. I've read the back and forth on this above...I think it's more of a "if you have to evac/pull vacuum/replace parts/recharge anyway, you may as well replace orings now instead of a few years from now" type of thing
 
I converted mine about 5 years ago. Works fine but I do have to add refrigerant every other year. My buddy's Snap On leak detecter hasn't been able to locate any leaks. I am not an A/C expert, but certified A/C guys have told me that the hose manufactured for use with R134A has a different barrier that is designed to keep the smaller molecules from escaping. Plus the old hoses are 34 years old. I am planning to have my hoses re-made to try and address the issue.
 
Who ever adds things to the 60 series FAQ should add this document. I am in the process of doing this and found the Toyota TSB for converting. I figure if anyone knows how to do it right Toyota should.
You're awesome! Finally something from the factory. Interesting that you don't have to replace the shaft seal on the compressor or the orings around the input shaft which I did to a spare I had laying about... Dang!
 
Slight tangent but worth adding... The really nifty AC fittings are the the new pad/block style that use Parker's washer-type "stat-o-seal". Why they aren't mainstream automotive yet is absurd. No tooling changes, they're stout as hell, and make health checks during assembly an absolute breeze.
 
Slight tangent but worth adding... The really nifty AC fittings are the the new pad/block style that use Parker's washer-type "stat-o-seal". Why they aren't mainstream automotive yet is absurd. No tooling changes, they're stout as hell, and make health checks during assembly an absolute breeze.
You have any pics? Just curious what is it.
 
Here's one side, but I think you can get the gist. The other side has a tube that just does slide into the port to help locate the seal washer. Fasten the bolt and you get a crush seal joint, not a sliding o-ring. 0% chance to cut or roll a seal washer. The joint is good to 3ksi+, so hydraulics uses it sometimes. HVAC is nuts for not adopting it more broadly.

fitting:
1625062880702.png


seal washer:
1625063226278.png


For a manufacturer: the nifty part is that if you leave a seal out, you'll have no shot at pulling a vacuum so the problem is obvious. Unlike if you leave out an o-ring where the joint may temporarily seal due to metal on metal interference - then you get warranty work later on when the interference slips.
 

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