FJ60 Idle Problem (1 Viewer)

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Thought I would start a new thread so we don't clog up other ones.

60 will not idle without choke. The issue was present before desmog, I was just hoping it was vacuum related with all the smog stuff. But no luck. Desmog is complete and still will only idle with choke. I tested the ICS by unplugging/plugging it in with KOEO, and it clicks nice and clear.
 
Todd, mine used to do the same. Idle fine sometimes. Required choke sometimes. But now it requires choke all of the time.
 
Just buy an 80 and you won't have to worry about it. :) I love getting groceries in mine ... Sorry for the hijack . Back to the regularly scheduled program:flipoff2:
 
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10A Engine fuse is good.
 
Have you put a vacuum gauge on it? If your pulling good vac (15 or more) then there might be some junk that got left in the carb during rebuild. Timing is at 7* with no vac hooked up to the dizzy?

How did you set the idle mixture screw? I like to start 4 full turns out and adjust from there.
 
Will try to get a loaner timing light and vac gauge today. Will report the results when I have them.

Thanks for the help!
 
somewhat off topic question but since you just recently dove into this project i thought i would ask. between the carb and intake, there is the thick spacer block. did you have a gasket between both spacer block to intake and spacer block to carb? if so, what thickness are they? i tore my intake off last night and noticed a lot of leakage between these areas. some pieces of gasket were there, some were missing so i'm sure that's part of my problem. The rebuild kit shows the two gaskets pictured below that have the large slot in the middle.

4422-2.jpg
 
Mine only had one gasket. Between carb and insulator. Insulator to manifold did not. Apparently been missing since I've owned it. I tried to get the gaskets from Toy but had trouble locating them. I didn't think about them being in a rebuild kit. My carb was rebuilt by JimC a bout three years ago. I took the easy route. May not be the best, but figured I would try. I bought a sheet of gasket material at pep boys, traced the old gasket and cut out two gaskets. The material said it was for intake. Time will tell.

I would have to measure the thickness if you need to know.
 
I picked up a loaner vacuum gauge from AZ yesterday. Went home to test and it wouldn't even start. Turns out I'm not getting fuel in the carb. Was fine on Sat. I washed the truck after getting exhaust put on. Went to pull it in the garage and it wouldn't start. No fuel in bowl. I tapped around on the carb and could see fuel pumping into carb. It finally started and I got it pulled into garage. It idled with choke. Yesterday, no fuel squirting into carb. Have to check that out before getting vacuum reading. Hopefully I can get it tonight. If not, will have to wait for weekend. Wife and son are headed out of town for the weekend. I hope to get some of this straightened out while they are gone. I've never checked the timing before. This will be the first time I've done it ever. But think I've got a pretty good handle on how to do it. Obviously have to start by getting it running.
 
There was no fuel past the filter. Filled up the carb three times and started it. Bowl is finally full. (Halfway) Hope it stays. I swear, pecking on the carb seems to do wonders here lately. It needs to be driven, thats the real problem. It almost idled without choke. Need to renew tags and drive it, even if choke is needed. Will check vacuum and timing this weekend.
 
Mine only had one gasket. Between carb and insulator. Insulator to manifold did not. Apparently been missing since I've owned it. I tried to get the gaskets from Toy but had trouble locating them. I didn't think about them being in a rebuild kit. My carb was rebuilt by JimC a bout three years ago. I took the easy route. May not be the best, but figured I would try. I bought a sheet of gasket material at pep boys, traced the old gasket and cut out two gaskets. The material said it was for intake. Time will tell.

I would have to measure the thickness if you need to know.

I made one out of some of that felpro gasket stuff you can by in a roll from Advance like you. Works fine.
 
Hugh Heifer said:
I made one out of some of that felpro gasket stuff you can by in a roll from Advance like you. Works fine.

Good to hear.
 
Bowl was still full of fuel this morning when I checked before work. Anxious to get home and start it up. Think I'll pull it out of garage and let it run for a bit. Check idle and mix screws. Still need to get/borrow a timing light. AZ did not have a loaner.

Has anyone rigged up a dryer hose or something to the tailpipe to get the fumes outside the garage?
 
Mine only had one gasket. Between carb and insulator. Insulator to manifold did not. Apparently been missing since I've owned it. I tried to get the gaskets from Toy but had trouble locating them. I didn't think about them being in a rebuild kit. My carb was rebuilt by JimC a bout three years ago. I took the easy route. May not be the best, but figured I would try. I bought a sheet of gasket material at pep boys, traced the old gasket and cut out two gaskets. The material said it was for intake. Time will tell.

I would have to measure the thickness if you need to know.

you have to buy the whole insulator from toyota. $100 or so i think the last time I bought one.

when you adjust for the idle let it run until its at operating temps.
 
I kept her at operating temps most of the day today while trying to get the idle. I would get it, then lose it. Hour later, get it, lose it. This went on 3 or 4 times. It is currently idling, but needs a little more speed or mix. (Died at a few stop signs. But not all of them.) Tach is not working. Unknown RPMS for now. No smoking.

Adjusted valves. Set timing to 7 BTDC. Vacuum off manifold is pulling about 15-16 at idle. Faster idle it will go up to 18-19-20.
 
I kept her at operating temps most of the day today while trying to get the idle. I would get it, then lose it. Hour later, get it, lose it. This went on 3 or 4 times. It is currently idling, but needs a little more speed or mix. (Died at a few stop signs. But not all of them.) Tach is not working. Unknown RPMS for now. No smoking.

Adjusted valves. Set timing to 7 BTDC. Vacuum off manifold is pulling about 15-16 at idle. Faster idle it will go up to 18-19-20.

maybe you have the idle set too low since your tach isn't working? Does it feel good to be back driving it??
 
mwalls54 said:
maybe you have the idle set too low since your tach isn't working? Does it feel good to be back driving it??

Feels good to be behind the wheel again. She does feel a lot better than before. More responsive. I've only driven it around the block a few times, but I already feel more confident in it. (Renewing the tags this week so I can put some miles on it.)

AND NO EXHAUST FUMES IN THE CAB!!!! The old pipe with the exhaust return was broken, dumping fumes under the hood. And with no clean air hose, she was not getting ANY good air. Neither was the cab. A couple of hours in the cab lead to a good headache. CLEAN AIR AND CLEAN CAB NOW!!! WOOT!!!
 
Made it to daycare and work. Running well, but idle is too low. Dies at all stops now. It was maintaining on Saturday, but just barely. Guess it has settled in.

Problem is I'm afraid to mess with the Idle Speed Screw. It was such a pain just to get it to this point.

I'm thinking out loud.... The Fast Idle Speed Screw moves the linkage. The Idle Speed Screw is in the carb body, when adjusted, little elves make adjustments to idle. Well, my elves must be on strike or high on fumes. Adjusting the Fast Idle Screw yields immediate response in idle. The Idle Speed screw barely affects idle, and when it does, it drops too low and dies. Then it takes me forever to get it to idle again. Is this "normal" behavior? For the Idle Speed Screw to be such a pain in adjusting idle. Should adjusting the Idle Speed Screw give immediate, or close to it, change to the idle? I tried to wait 30secs after each turn of the screw.
 

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