Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (3 Viewers)

[workingdog]

So, I bought the wrong flywheel and need some help. Have no idea what the difference is. They look the same, but the bolt hole pattern for the hub/crank is slightly different. The pictures aren't great, but if you look close you can see how far off it is. And yes, I rotated to every position, the one pictured is as close as it gets. Very disappointing. This is going to set me back a few days.

 

[workingdog]

So, apparently, the hub I have is for an '85 to about '95 pre-LS motor. And the flywheel I got is for LS - '97 and up. And I'm having a really hard time finding a 12 to 15lb flywheel for that time period.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wouldn't it be easier to give your flywheel to a machine shop with a big lathe and have them lighten it for you? Using machines, it would be lightened very evenly, but you could have the flywheel balanced afterwards also.

 

[workingdog]

That has occurred to me. I'm going to make some calls tomorrow and see who does that around here.

 

[whitey45]

You need a flywheel for a two piece rear main seal, chevy went to a single piece with the vortec engines. There are a mlllion options for a race flywheel for a small block chevy!!

 

[whitey45]

10lbs! What size clutch are you running, 153 tooth or 168 tooth flywheel. Clutch size will determine what flywheel you need. Think the 153 only goes to 10.5 disc, 168 will except 11”, 12” discs.

 

[sahelzer]

Are you just driving in 2nd gear? Didn’t notice you shifting at all.
Way cool. Props to taking on project like this. Your wife must be a saint.

 

[workingdog]

Apparently I need a flywheel with one piece main seal from '85 to '95 - that's what Advanced adapters said. It's the pre LS, but post '85, pattern.

You don't have to shift much. I usually leave it in 3rd. But, around the neighborhood I'm only doing 25. I need to get the displays to show RPM and something to show speed (in theory, the display can, and I entered the gear ratio and tire size, but it's not working). I have no idea what RPM range to run.

There is no wife - thank god.

 

[cruisermatt]

You're crushing it, this was only a bare chassis 8 months ago, you'll have the thing done and tested by Rubithon for sure if you keep this pace up.

 

[workingdog]

Thanks Matt. Every time I think I've got some momentum going, something like this flywheel jumps up and brings me to a screeching halt. It would be great to do Rubithon, but that would not only having it all sorted, but fully skid plated and water proofed as well (although they've moved Rubithon to August, so water may not be such an issue). And, figure out a way to make sure I have enough charge to get out. I'm totally confident it would make it through though.

 

[workingdog]

So, while I'm waiting on the flywheel problem to solve itself, I'm going to work on the controller mount. The current mount is one of the first things I built. It's been modified too many times and ... sucks. So, I'm starting from scratch and send a plan off to SendCutSend and just got this back. The end tabs are going to get bent up, and additional tabs tacked onto the sides. But, it's going to be much better - I hope. The idea is that I'll still use the ABS plastic for the exterior, but it will just screw mount to the tabs. There's a parallel piece from SendCutSend that will go on top to provide structure for the sides on top and where the top will attach. I still need to figure out how to seal the seams, but I'll figure that out.

 

[peesalot]

So by your description you are looking for a tuned port series flywheel, may have to find a specific year and application as they went from old school gen 1 sbc to tbi to tuned port during that period. have you measured the specs of the bolt pattern on the hub to check with flywheel ? Iagree that the bolt pattern specs are hard to find on the sites

 

[workingdog]

Yes, I think you are right. but if you call Summit Racing, they don't know the difference, and Ram won't answer the phone or email. So, a machine shop in town will take the 30lb one and put it on their brake lathe and turn it down - for a lot less than the $500 they want for obscure racing flywheels - so we'll try that.

 

[workingdog]

Here's the controller structure with all the tabs on. Lots of tabs. Some for attaching sides, the rest for different electrical attachment points. Bending the ends did not go nearly as well as planned. Oh well.

Ordered hood from Aqualu today. Should have ordered it with everything else. but putting a hood on seemed to far away. $800 for the hood. $400 for shipping to dock in town - $650 if I wanted it delivered to my house. Mother******. Now down to the steel supplier to get more thick plate to make the connects between this structure and the motor mounts. and then a lot of 'english' as I fiddle them all together.

 

[peesalot]

Curious if you have been able to incorporate the regen/braking charge feature ?

 

[workingdog]

I have what they call 'neutral' regen which is regen on zero throttle - there are three selectable levels. I'm waiting on a transducer from EVWest (don't get me started on those guys) so I can wire it up to the Hyper 9's and in theory I'll get regen on braking as well.

 

[peesalot]

I was wondering if it could switch into regen with zero throttle but wheels truning motors, if it works you will have plenty of time where you will be zero throttle but rolling so power shouldn't be an issue, a 2000w gen in back on first trip aint a bad idea. Meaning you could use a 110 charger if needed.

 

[workingdog]

I think what you are describing is the neutral regen, which I have right now.

The 2000 watt on 110v would take forever. And, in fact, I'm not sure my charger will take 110v. I was planning on bringing my 7k generator that puts out 220v - or borrow the one at the Springs. But first, I have to verify the 220v coming out of the generator is clean enough. but, I still think I might might make it all the way through. If an fj40 can do it on 15 gallons of gas, I'm thinking 7 Tesla batteries is a similar amount of energy. Just depends on how the batteries respond to doing 3 mph for a day.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, the new controller platform is on. It was a huge amount of work, and did not turn out as nice as I hoped, but it's better. There are tabs all around for me to screw the same black ABS as the old controller box to the sides and front and back. There's another frame that will provide rigidity on top. I had to cut the fancy bulkhead connectors out. Is there no way to install these without un-soldering all the connections? There has to be a way. Or, do I have to turn the holes for them into slots. Nothing is ever easy.

 

[Gangrene]

Look up the connector Mfg. They might have a pin extractor tool you can get to remove the contact from the plug to reinstall the fitting into the bulkhead.