Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (1 Viewer)

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I would go hydraulic assist and a more common box. It would work for sure as far as steering goes. There are also a lot of choices to go to for steering pump, Id think you could find an electric pump capable of running your power steering and hydro boost. That being said I know zero about EPS.
 
What is the weight in front compared to a standard 40?
If it is less I would just go with the EPS, as it is already in there.
The tOtal weight may be higher but it is probably better distributed.
 
Weight is definitely lower. the 2f was very heavy. The two motors weight 130 lbs each, so total of 260. And there's no power steering pump, No alternator, or all the rest of the crap that goes with a gas engine.
 
Okay, got out the hydraulic pump, just for kicks. wouldn't be too much of a nightmare to mount and plumb.

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Okay, throttle is mounted, built a little offset plate to get it closer to a usable location. Also got the brakes and clutch mounted. Every damn hole on the tub needs to be massaged. Even the holes in the cab and the holes in the body mounts on the frame - both made by Aqualu - had to be 'adjusted'. But, it's all in - and with stainless hardware.

Next, I take the giant rats nest of wires lying under the rig, throw it in the cab, and start to sort it out to find the legs that go through the firewall. And then mounting the battery box (need to fab steel plate for the inside to reinforce) and DC to DC converter. And then I'm very close to be able to run again.

First, off to the steel supply spot to find a piece of 1/2" by 1" bar stock for the transfer case shifter mod. All the air and electric options are way to DIY and complicated for me to dive into at right now.

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Do you think I need to be concerned about the manual steering box?
 
Most everything is mounted in it's more or less final location. Switches and indicators are temporary. I don't want to start drilling into the dash until I'm absolutely certain.

Here's the painless fuse panel and the Orion battery management system and the backing plate for the battery.

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Temporary switches and indicators

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Battery, it was a mistake to make it load in from the top, should have had it front load. On top is the DC/DC converter that takes the Tesla battery voltage in and converts it down to 12v to charge the battery. In the middle is the controller box. Still lots of wires to clean up, but their in their final path.

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The vacuum pump is tucked down against the cab, and the accumulator tank higher up.

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Here are the seat towers/risers I had cut at SendCutSend and now I'm assembling them

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White Stripe said:
If the sector shaft is small, your still going to get things jammed up in the rocks if your wheeling it hard. A snapped sector shaft to me is one of the worst things to have break on the trail.
Click to expand...
I agree - my worst nightmare.
 
Come on up.
 
Progress.

In putting everything back together, I managed to wire everything backwards on one try and fried the SCM that should go here. However, now that I understand the system, I'm not sure I need it, or want it. It's basically a bunch of relays that control outputs that aren't that hard to deal with. So, wired the minimum around it, and the motors are turning again with the cab on.

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Seat bracket is mostly in. Waiting on the front towers, but the back towers went in fine, fronts will be easy to add and it will work okay in the interim.

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With those things done, the EJ45 should be operational with the cab on. A major milestone. So, clean up a few dangling wires and I can take it out on a test drive again. Still no doors and no seatbelts ... so not the safest rig in town.
 
Okay, as soon as the cab went on, it suddenly occurred to me how to do the battery box right. I have no idea why it took ... 8 months. But, instead of having a short tall box, I can make use of the bed length I have with a longer shallow box. this would let me set the flat bed pretty much right on the frame. however, using the same fancy system I used, and it is the best I've found, this would be four separate boxes. In theory, I have all the expensive side parts, what I'd need is 3 more tops and bottoms and 8 ends - which I might be able to get made myself cheaper. Anyway, this is what it would look like. It would shift the weight farther back, but life is not perfect. the only other thing I could do is figure out a way to put the final battery in the engine bay - there's room - but the wiring would be work.

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just redoing the battery boxes would be several days of work. But, on top of that. I'd have to trim the frame (red), put in a new cross member way back (white) and remove the stock cross member (red). And then build an additional support structure cross member and install plate from it to the existing support cross member.

So, it's a lot of work all around. But, getting the bed down 6" to where it's meant to me will make a big difference in both appearance and usability. The coilover towers will stick through the bed, but there is usable space in between. But this will push things out a bit.
 
I'd leave it, work the cooler/fridge in between the shocks with a drawer under it and put it on a slider, gear on the batts.
 
Not quite 800 lbs
 
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