Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (1 Viewer)

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Can't wait to watch the pucker factor on the sidehills. Remember. up travel is way overrated. Set that thing as low as you can, looking forward to seeing it on the trail.
 
Can't wait to watch the pucker factor on the sidehills. Remember. up travel is way overrated. Set that thing as low as you can, looking forward to seeing it on the trail.

Uptravel is overated till you wanna hit stuff fast.
 
Yes to what DN said.

Having oodles of up travel won’t really be a benefit on the Rubicon, but if you want to go rip around Hollister, or out in the desert, Pismo, etc. then having balanced up travel and properly set bump stops will make your rig much more enjoyable.
 
Everything is set as low as possible - without taking up travel out. Right now I'm like 9 down and 5 up front and rear. I got talked into going from the 12" to 14" coilovers a while ago - and that change was A LOT of work. But, I've got 18" to 20" of clearance underneath, clearance is something I like on the Rubicon. I am not planning on going fast in this thing. Changing the battery pack from the way it is to half as high and longer would lower the CG. But, we are talking inches here.
 
I built the transfer case shifters so they offset out the side of the tunnel near the right knee. My son showed up and said that was stupid, go the other way and have them come up in the center of the tunnel. Duhhh.

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Much better.

Seats should be done and in tomorrow. As of the shifters being done, the tunnel is done and can be secured.

The FAD block off plate arrived today, I'll install that tomorrow and 4 wheel drive will be really working and i'll take it out to test it.
I need to make a bracket to hold the current sensor - that will be 2 hours of my life I'll never get back. but it has to be done.
And I need to do more fiddling with the ABS sides for the controller housing.
But, it's very close to some serious testing as well as actually trying to get the fenders on, the bib on (which means moving the radiator to it's final location), and the hood arrives in the next 10 days. So, it might actually look like a landcruiser in the next couple of weeks.
Then, I have to start finalizing the springs for the coils. I should be getting close to final weight, but I still don't have skid plates, bumpers, roll cage, or the flatbed - and won't for a while. But, the thing is awful light. It's going to take some very light springs. The 150's and 250' I have no don't compress hardly at all.
 
I built the transfer case shifters so they offset out the side of the tunnel near the right knee. My son showed up and said that was stupid, go the other way and have them come up in the center of the tunnel. Duhhh.

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Much better.

Seats should be done and in tomorrow. As of the shifters being done, the tunnel is done and can be secured.

The FAD block off plate arrived today, I'll install that tomorrow and 4 wheel drive will be really working and i'll take it out to test it.
I need to make a bracket to hold the current sensor - that will be 2 hours of my life I'll never get back. but it has to be done.
And I need to do more fiddling with the ABS sides for the controller housing.
But, it's very close to some serious testing as well as actually trying to get the fenders on, the bib on (which means moving the radiator to it's final location), and the hood arrives in the next 10 days. So, it might actually look like a landcruiser in the next couple of weeks.
Then, I have to start finalizing the springs for the coils. I should be getting close to final weight, but I still don't have skid plates, bumpers, roll cage, or the flatbed - and won't for a while. But, the thing is awful light. It's going to take some very light springs. The 150's and 250' I have no don't compress hardly at all.

Maybe give Ben @ Filthy Motorsports a call. It's $30 for a consultation (I think), and he has a ton of experience setting valving and spring rates. Would probably be worth it.
 
Not quite 800 lbs
800 is kind of a lot isn't it? I would probably try to put some in the engine bay as you mentioned. Personally I don't like having a real heavily rear weight bias offroad. Or is there a way to put some of the battery under the seats? Your video is really cool. Sounds a lot like my radio controlled rock crawler.
 
It might be a good idea to place it on 4 scales. At this stage you are able to make some choices that improve the overal balance.
 
Calling Ben at Filthy is a great idea, I had no idea he did that.

There is enough room under the seats that some batteries could go there, but then you've got 180v lithium batteries in the cab - trying to avoid that. Packing batteries in the engine bay could be really tough.

don't have 4 scales and haven't been able to figure out where to borrow them. Do have a hoist scale and I can lift each end and get a weight - might be time to do that again.

But, now is the time all the design decisions I made slightly blind come home to roost
 
I got tires from him and I will say that the price and service was great, I am a fan of Filthy, get stickers, mine are tattered and need replacing.
 
Okay, the chickens are really coming home to roost. This is my first attempt to get a fender on with coil over tower in place and tires. Not super happy with the look and I'm not sure it's going to work. This is the wide and high - where the hood sits right on the fender.

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There is a LOT of gap here. they make a wide fender at the stock height, I should have bought that (maybe I still will). I don't like the gap, and it leaves that weird triangle, for which they have a part, but it's going to be weird fitting it in.

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This is how the bezel mates up to the fender, this little bit sits under the corner of the hood, needs some trimming


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For some reason, the fender doesn't follow the line from the cowl to the bezel, and goes in like this. Really a PITA.

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This is how much clearance I have, I was expecting another inch, and when I get the other side on, maybe I'll have more room. But, it's very tight. Had to remove the coilover fitting. I'm having to replumb the coilovers so they'll go into the engine bay rather than out into the fender well. Took many phone calls to get the right part number.

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This is the line the hood follows, you can see how much the fender protrudes into the engine bay - throwing off my calculations taken from my fj40. All in all, I'm not thrilled with it.

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that's the way it's supposed to fit. :There are bolt holes that align it. That gap in the top half is part of the design - it's a weird design. the little triangle that fits in there is just as odd.
 
I've ordered the wide fenders at stock height from Aqualu. Ouch, but had to do it. So, imagining these fenders 4" lower, and a version of this bumper, what kind of turn signals should I use? Old school in the bib, or new school on the fender?

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I've ordered the wide fenders at stock height from Aqualu. Ouch, but had to do it. So, imagining these fenders 4" lower, and a version of this bumper, what kind of turn signals should I use? Old school in the bib, or new school on the fender?

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I used LED headlights with built in turn signals on mine I couldnt find anything that i liked. The LED headlights with the turn signals are an option???
 
Okay, while waiting for other stuff to arrive, I put the SCM back in and lo and behold - the Orion battery management system is still working and I managed to initiate a charge cycle. I thought that might take me a week to get all working again, only one loose wire to track down. So, a huge success.

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Okay, the fiberglass hood arrived from Aqualu. It looks good, but it's not very stiff. However, as soon as I went to see what it looked likes in place, and suddenly I realized the brake reservoir sits at least 2" above the hood line. How did I not notice this before? So, this is another conundrum. Can I even find a lower profile reservoir that will work? Something for a PT Cruiser or a challenger???

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