FJ60 Big Cap Distributor Question - into FJ40 2F 1977

[powthief19]

I picked up a FJ60 big cap distributor from Mudrak a few months back now i'm looking at putting it in. A few questions for the group:

1. What are the extra rubber hoses for that come off the wire harness? We're these cut?
2. The red wire has a cut in the shroud. (see photo) Can these terminals be removed from the green plastic connector so i can just shorten it up to remedy the cut in the shroud?
2a. Since this is only seeing 12V through here, should i not worry about it? (dumb question?)
3. The large 'o' ring under the cap has a break in it... can just this part be replaced? Recommendations of where to find one?
4. The small o-ring on the distributor shaft, should i replace this or if it looks good, run it? (source for purchase?)

Your help is appreciated!

 

[1911]

I picked up a FJ60 big cap distributor from Mudrak a few months back now i'm looking at putting it in. A few questions for the group:

1. What are the extra rubber hoses for that come off the wire harness? We're these cut?

Don't think so, I think mine had them too. Drains for the connector? Buffers of some kind? not sure.

2. The red wire has a cut in the shroud. (see photo) Can these terminals be removed from the green plastic connector so i can just shorten it up to remedy the cut in the shroud?
2a. Since this is only seeing 12V through here, should i not worry about it? (dumb question?)

Don't know, but since your '77 is pre-electronic (I think), the connector probably won't match up with your existing harness anyway.

3. The large 'o' ring under the cap has a break in it... can just this part be replaced? Recommendations of where to find one?

Should come with a new cap, but as I remember the cap may be NLA from Toyota - I think I had to get my last one from Vato Zone or some such.

4. The small o-ring on the distributor shaft, should i replace this or if it looks good, run it? (source for purchase?)

It's just an oil seal; if it looks good and isn't torn, run it. Don't know where to get a new one; Jim C. or try the dealer?

 

[spotcruiser]

I believe the "hoses" on the connector are just plugs for unused pin locations.

I'm not familiar with how that particular plug comes apart. Perhaps Coolerman shows it on his website and perhaps he has pins. If the copper doesn't look too screwed-up, you can tape over the broken wire insulation or put heat shrink over it (possibly from the distributor end of the wire if you can't get the plug apart).

You can certainly put a different plug on there if needed.

I believe I bought a new cap O-ring recently. I don't recall if it was OEM or aftermarket from a vendor (possibly CityRacer). I do see that SOR has them. I'm sure you can find a suitable O-ring for the shaft, if need be, from any good hardware store, but it looks OK in the photo.

 

[4Cruisers]

The distributor cap dust proof packing (large O-ring) and distributor shaft O-ring are available from Toyota - 19127-61240 and 90099-14090 respectively.

 

[powthief19]

The distributor cap dust proof packing (large O-ring) and distributor shaft O-ring are available from Toyota - 19127-61240 and 90099-14090 respectively.

Thanks, i just found toyotapartsdeal.com...

Per the picture on that site, it appears those rubber hoses came from the factory that way.

@Coolerman any idea what these are for? Drainage/ventilation?

 

[powthief19]

Does anyone have a picture of what @Coolerman is discussing on here: Dizzy FAQ when he says

"** The stop pin is down inside the distributor, under the breaker plate. It is supposed to have a plastic bushing around it. The governor (advance mechanism) slot rests against the stop pin at idle. As the revs increase, the governor moves off the pin until the other side of the slot contacts the pin, about 10.5 degrees later. The plastic bushing tends to crumble, exposing the much smaller steel core of the stop pin. Now the rest angle is much retarded, and the max governor angle is more advanced. This means the distributor which already had a greater than ideal advance curve has about 6 more degrees than stock."

I would like to figure out if mine is good prior to installing. Any help is appreciated!

 

[spotcruiser]

As I mentioned in my post above, what look like hoses are just plugs for the unused pin locations in the connector. Other manufacturers have similar methods of plugging unused pin locations.

Thanks, i just found toyotapartsdeal.com...

Per the picture on that site, it appears those rubber hoses came from the factory that way.

View attachment 1494264

@Coolerman any idea what these are for? Drainage/ventilation?

 

[4Cruisers]

Remove the cover inside the distributor (you have to pull the vacuum advance mechanism/lever first) and you'll see the springs and weights for the centrifugal advance. The stop pin has a sleeve, I replaced mine with a part from the hardware store. There are several threads here on MUD with details of material/OD/ID/length, I got pointed in the right direction from reading a post by @NeverGiveUpYota.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Does anyone have a picture of what @Coolerman is discussing on here: Dizzy FAQ when he says

"** The stop pin is down inside the distributor, under the breaker plate. It is supposed to have a plastic bushing around it. The governor (advance mechanism) slot rests against the stop pin at idle. As the revs increase, the governor moves off the pin until the other side of the slot contacts the pin, about 10.5 degrees later. The plastic bushing tends to crumble, exposing the much smaller steel core of the stop pin. Now the rest angle is much retarded, and the max governor angle is more advanced. This means the distributor which already had a greater than ideal advance curve has about 6 more degrees than stock."

I would like to figure out if mine is good prior to installing. Any help is appreciated!

Per the stop pin, I have pixs at home (many) and a few on my build thread, sorry I'm not sure the page/post number... possibly around page 18. If you want them direct I can email you. Lmk.
Felicity

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Small o-ring ought to get swapped for new as they tend to flatten out over time. You'll see that holding old to new side to side. Large o-ring does not come w/ a cap at least not w/ mine. Both rings still avail from dealer. And yes my plug on existing diz and extra both have those funny cut soft hoses like yours shown.

 

[ducktapeguy]

re: Stop pin bushing.

Someone was kind enough to post dimensions in this thread

Distributor stop pin bushing dimensions

I forgot the exact part number I used, but it was a nylon spacer from OSH that fit perfectly on the stop pin. It's pretty easy to tell if yours is good by just looking at it, if it's still on there then it's probably good

 

[powthief19]

Just read through this:Distributor stop pin bushing dimensions

Thank you @ducktapeguy

 

[powthief19]

So I've found a stop pin bushing replacement in plastic as well as aluminum. Thoughts on running plastic vs. aluminum?

For those of you following along, here is my distributor stop pin that's missing the bushing, then here it is again with the new one. Also, the part number from the hardware store.

 

[powthief19]

Few questions regarding distributor install:

My first step is to put the 1st cylinder in top dead center during compression stroke.

1. I've aligned the 'line' on the fly wheel with the indicator on the bell housing.
2. I've put my finger on the spark plug hole and felt air pressure build up and push out air when the piston came up.
3. I can see the top of the piston and feel it with a screw driver
4. The rocker arms are 'loose'.
5. My main question is that the timing gear marks are no longer lined up... is this ok?

 

[3_puppies]

that is the exhaust stroke, you would need to go around 1 more revolution. when turning the intake valve will open and then close that would be the compression stroke.

 

[powthief19]

that is the exhaust stroke, you would need to go around 1 more revolution. when turning the intake valve will open and then close that would be the compression stroke.

Thanks for your reply... I've been reading on this for hours now but since I've never done it before it's pretty intimidating.

Everything I'm reading is saying that the rocker arms should be 'loose' like in the YouTube video above to be in top dead center of compression stroke.

If I rotate the engine one more 360* rotation, won't one rocker arm be tight and one be loose?

 

[Coolerman]

Thanks, i just found toyotapartsdeal.com...

Per the picture on that site, it appears those rubber hoses came from the factory that way.

View attachment 1494264

@Coolerman any idea what these are for? Drainage/ventilation?

I have no idea what those rubber protrusions were for! That connector is only a two pin connector, so they are not to fill empty terminal cavities.
FYI: You can use a dental pick to pry out the rubber connector end seal from the connector, use a terminal extractor or other suitable tool to compress the tang that holds the terminals in place, remove the terminals, clip out the bad section, crimp on new terminals and re-insert into the connector. The terminal part number from me is FT6.3.

I also read through the threads linked from this one and updated my Dizzy FAQ with this new information.

 

[powthief19]

Even though the timing gear marks were not lining up, the first three rocker arms were loose and valves are closed so i went with this for compression, top dead center.

Regarding the stop pin bushing, any recommendations on plastic v aluminum?

I keep reading, "make sure you have full engagement into the oil pump", if i have the distributor bottomed out on the block, does this mean i have full engagement?

Also, those of you that have installed the big distributor in an FJ40, what was your work around regarding the cap interference with the hard line as pictured?

 

[1911]

I keep reading, "make sure you have full engagement into the oil pump", if i have the distributor bottomed out on the block, does this mean i have full engagement?

In my experience, yes.

Also, those of you that have installed the big distributor in an FJ40, what was your work around regarding the cap interference with the hard line as pictured?
View attachment 1501722

Hmmm... I didn't have any interference on my 1980 (photo attached):

FJ60 dizzy in a 1980 FJ40

• 1911
• Jul 22, 2017

I can't tell from your photo, but you are using the dished side (pushrod gallery) cover, correct? I didn't think the big-cap dizzy would fit without it.

 

[powthief19]

In my experience, yes.





Hmmm... I didn't have any interference on my 1980 (photo attached):

FJ60 dizzy in a 1980 FJ40

• 1911
• Jul 22, 2017

I can't tell from your photo, but you are using the dished side (pushrod gallery) cover, correct? I didn't think the big-cap dizzy would fit without it.

Looks like i forgot to install the 'first' nut which is torqued to spec to hold the cover on, then i installed the tube, then another nut. Now it's sitting much better.

Thanks for your help!

Chris