FJ60/62 spring length and flipping housing??

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Dec 19, 2003
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Location
Marysville, PA
Was wondering what the length of these springs is. I am planning on using an axle from an FJ62 on my Tacoma and was kicking around about possibly using a set of FJ60/62 springs, since the front end weight would be similar and I want to keep it low.

I am also kicking around the idea of flipping the housing to drivers side drop to utilize my current transfer case. Any tips on this other than cut the balls off and re-weld after the housing is flipped. Also cut off the diff cover and flip as well. Possibly have to redo some of the bolt holes for the diff as well, haven't gotten my housing in yet, which is pretty much free.

Could also switch to dual mini-truck cases for passenger side drop and modify the exhaust to fit around the driveshaft.

Thanks
 
I measured my FJ60 packs from eye to eye when I took them off and the fronts were 44 inches and the rears were 47 inches.
 
Thanks, one more piece of the puzzle figured out.
 
if you want to run a flipped housing, I would personally have Diamond or somone else fabricate you a custom housing. When you look into how much work it is, they are very affordable and it sure is nice to start with a clean housing. I also think you are going to want a wider axle than a fj60... FJ80 width works very well in the front of a taco.
 
The FJ80 axle is too wide for the truck to be street legal in PA, which is what I am trying to do. As I understand it, the FJ60/62 axle is around 58 3/4" WMS. The common axle for Tacomas is a Dana 44 out of a Wagoneer which is 60" WMS. I figure I can either run a small set of spacers or run IFS hubs to get me to 61" with the Toyota axle so that I am just a little wider in the front than the rear for decent steering. My rear axle is the stock Tacoma axle which is 59"-60" WMS.

I do like the diamond setup, but at $900 for just the housing plus shipping, that can buy me a lot of other parts. What little time I have is cheaper than that since the FJ60/62 housing would be free.

Tire size will probably be limited to 35's with trying to keep it low, so I should be okay with stock axle shafts as well, and they are pretty easy to come by.
 
Joey's '98 taco with fj80 axle and pretty small backspaced wheels.

3.jpg
 
I remember seeing those trucks before, unfortuneatly I can't find and FJ80 axle around here for less than $1500 and getting high steer on it is somewhat expensive when you go with leaves, which I am. I figure I can build the FJ60/62 axle for around $600 with high steer, $800 with 4.88 gears to match my rear.

What sucks about PA is the 30" bumper height and the tire tread cannot extend past the fender flare, which can only be 3" wide. My truck currently is at the PA limit for all of the above and I am still IFS, but am set up for 35's room wise. I wil actually be lowering the truck a little when I go to 35's
 
Could int you just do a Cut and turn on the knuckles, but Turn them ~180 Degrees? then flip the housing and do the mods to make the 3rd work.. id think this would work pretty slick!

Diamond would be way cooler, but pricy.. good job staying away from the D44!
 
Could int you just do a Cut and turn on the knuckles, but Turn them ~180 Degrees? then flip the housing and do the mods to make the 3rd work.. id think this would work pretty slick!

Diamond would be way cooler, but pricy.. good job staying away from the D44!

That's exactly what I was thinking it would take to flip the housing, really not that much work when you sit down and think about it. I think once I have the housing in my hands and play with the diff to see what needs re-done as far as mounting studs, it won't be that bad. The hardest part I think would be the angles for the cut and turn portion.
 
Could int you just do a Cut and turn on the knuckles, but Turn them ~180 Degrees? then flip the housing and do the mods to make the 3rd work.. id think this would work pretty slick!

That's exactly what I was thinking it would take to flip the housing, really not that much work when you sit down and think about it. I think once I have the housing in my hands and play with the diff to see what needs re-done as far as mounting studs, it won't be that bad. The hardest part I think would be the angles for the cut and turn portion.

If I follow you correctly, the Diff would then be upside down. No oil flow to the important parts. The drain would become the fill etc.

Or I did I miss something? I don't know if you could pull the diff and put it back in upside down or not.
 
You would put the diff in the housing just like it was before, not flipped, still low pinion. I would probably have to re-do some of the diff studs, since I wouldn't be so lucky that they are symetrical once flipped 180. I don't think anything in the housing effect oiling of the diff. I would also cut and spin the diff cover 180 to clear the ring gear.

As for the drain plug, yes it woudl be on the top of the housing, it could be cut out and reinstalled in the bottom or replace the bottom stud with a bolt and use that to drain it.
 
you also have to cut notches for the ring gear, and cut the front cover off and turn in 180 deg for ring gear clearance, oh, and brake-line mounts, breathers, ...

PITA factor is large.

Starting with a rear axle should make life a lot easier if all my assumptions are correct

I would get a housing made, diamond isn't the only one out there, there are other companies that make them for about half the price but aren't quite as nice.
 
Starting with a rear housing and turning it into a left-hand drop front axle sounds like a good idea. Wouldn't that also give you an inspection cover on the front diff?
 
If using a rear housing, wouldn't you also have to do some machine work on the ends to fit the knuckle balls correctly??? I may also incorporate a rear inspection cover into the front axle instead of rewelding the diff cover back on.

What would you do about the rotation of the diff, would that be a problem if using a rear housing??

This project will be done in a garage with standard tools, nothing fancy. I have the basics and nothing more. Welder, grinder, chopsaw, sawzall, no plasma cutter, mill, press, any of the good stuff :D
 
Flipping housings is NOT HARD! in fact it's the best kept secret

I've done 2 now including one that's going into a Heep.

The knuckles need to be cut and turned 168 degrees (to allow for pinion rotation) and knuckles swapped left to right.

the housing needs a notching for the ring gear.
the drain plug boss can be ground out with a cut off wheel easily and for the breather, weld a small piece of plate over the old drain hole, and drill / tap for new breather.

plug weld the old breather hole in the tube.

The front cover will need to be cut off and rotated 180degrees to complete the job

If you can safely do a custom suspension, then this is easy enough to do.

takes about an afternoon with a grinder.

photos of installed setup.
IMGP1674.jpg


IMGP1700.jpg
 
I can vouch for the housing flip method, it works great. i did it on a friends cherokee. the thing turned out nice with the four link, put a square driveline on it and ran it.
 
I've done 2 now including one that's going into a Heep.

The knuckles need to be cut and turned 168 degrees (to allow for pinion rotation) and knuckles swapped left to right.

the housing needs a notching for the ring gear.
the drain plug boss can be ground out with a cut off wheel easily and for the breather, weld a small piece of plate over the old drain hole, and drill / tap for new breather.

plug weld the old breather hole in the tube.

The front cover will need to be cut off and rotated 180degrees to complete the job

If you can safely do a custom suspension, then this is easy enough to do.

takes about an afternoon with a grinder.

photos of installed setup.
IMGP1674.jpg


IMGP1700.jpg

Awesome, thanks for the added info, didn't know about swaping the knuckles left to right. I guess I'll shoot for the 168 rotation and see where that puts me with the Tacoma. Can't wait to see the pictures since work is blocking them.
 

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