FJ40 Mark/Downey Header

[zerotreedelta]

Yes, the articulated joint. It's nice if you need articulation, but it's arguably less robust than alternative joints - trading flexibility for sealing in some regards.

Realistically, I don't need articulation there, and would wager most installing headers also don't given you're already into the world of custom exhaust...might be a nice future option to offer other joints there.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Dove back in - I think I found the culprit. The bolt was visually fine, so I suspect it was the nut, but the threads weren't meshing well and the binding causing an early/inaccurate torque. I replaced the bolt with fresh hardware, and it torqued up more as expected feel-wise. I did also add a whiff of sealant as well since it was apart and no real harm...but so far, seems quiet/snug.

 

[Fe3]

Dove back in - I think I found the culprit. The bolt was visually fine, so I suspect it was the nut, but the threads weren't meshing well and the binding causing an early/inaccurate torque. I replaced the bolt with fresh hardware, and it torqued up more as expected feel-wise. I did also add a whiff of sealant as well since it was apart and no real harm...but so far, seems quiet/snug.

That's great news.

These are stainless fasteners, so you do need to use the copper/high-temp anti-seize we provide to prevent the threads from galling.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Wasn't really a galling issue, seems like was just a defect in the hardware. Bolt is a minor piece at least, easy to replace.

Still huffing out the top of the clamp at the hinge point, so it's still not sealing somewhere in the joint. Planning to drop the clamp back off and rotate it 90* this afternoon, see if that helps fully draw things in. Theoretically, that hinge point would be the area of the least draw, and the curve shape also really doesn't pull things together. Worst case, it'll just have to come back off and get zipped closed with the tig welder.

Might be worth considering more of band with a three binding points in future iterations vs the hinged clamshell, would likely give a bit better coverage and a bit more even draw, and probably also easier to manufacture to boot.

 

[Fe3]

Wasn't really a galling issue, seems like was just a defect in the hardware. Bolt is a minor piece at least, easy to replace.

Still huffing out the top of the clamp at the hinge point, so it's still not sealing somewhere in the joint. Planning to drop the clamp back off and rotate it 90* this afternoon, see if that helps fully draw things in. Theoretically, that hinge point would be the area of the least draw, and the curve shape also really doesn't pull things together. Worst case, it'll just have to come back off and get zipped closed with the tig welder.

Might be worth considering more of band with a three binding points in future iterations vs the hinged clamshell, would likely give a bit better coverage and a bit more even draw, and probably also easier to manufacture to boot.

View attachment 3938502

Let us know how rotating the clamp works.

So far we have had great luck with the articulated joint and clamp!

 

[cstav86]

I installed the header last week, it is a thing of beauty. I opted for the white lightning coating as well, to keep temps down.
A couple of notes:
I have a factory power steering box and there is no room for a heat shield, there's about 1cm of clearance
The coating ran $631 inclusive of return shipping to me. It feels like 150 grit sandpaper.
Noticeable difference in the top end power, acceleration in 3rd gear really shines

Does anyone have sound clips of the whole enchilada? Interested in the exhaust, but really want something quiet.

 

[gonzopancho]

Does anyone have sound clips of the whole enchilada? Interested in the exhaust, but really want something quiet.

This is @PabloCruise's 40 at Moab in 2024

 

[gonzopancho]

I don't think it's loud at all, while my turbo 1fz-fe fj55... is a bit too much for my age.

 

[PabloCruise]

This is @PabloCruise's 40 at Moab in 2024

I must say that the header + exhaust (The Whole Enchilada) made my 2F feel more responsive.

 

[PabloCruise]

I don't think it's loud at all, while my turbo 1fz-fe fj55... is a bit too much for my age.

I don't find it loud, I would say it is a mellow purr.

 

[wngrog]

2Fs sound best at idle.

 

[Landcruiserfj45]

Hello,

I'm not entirely sure if I missed it or something.

But how much would the header cost and where could I buy it?

Thanks so much in advance, Jürgen

 

[GA Architect]

Hello,

I'm not entirely sure if I missed it or something.

But how much would the header cost and where could I buy it?

Thanks so much in advance, Jürgen

Here is the IH8MUD thread: < click here >
Website here: < click here >

 

[Fe3]

Hello,

I'm not entirely sure if I missed it or something.

But how much would the header cost and where could I buy it?

Thanks so much in advance, Jürgen

Here is the IH8MUD thread: < click here >
Website here: < click here >

Thank you @GA Architect !

@Landcruiserfj45 /Jürgen, please let us know how we can help. You can PM us here on MUD, or you can email sales@trimeki.com

 

[Landcruiserfj45]

Thank you @GA Architect !

@Landcruiserfj45 /Jürgen, please let us know how we can help. You can PM us here on MUD, or you can email sales@trimeki.com

Hi,

Thanks for your message.

I think the header is absolutely amazing...

But unfortunately, I still need to save up a bit before I can afford it...

 

[Fe3]

Hi,

Thanks for your message.

I think the header is absolutely amazing...

But unfortunately, I still need to save up a bit before I can afford it...

Thank you for your kind words about the header.

We understand your comments about pricing. Shipping and import fees are also feeling difficult these days!

We do feel that the fit is extremely good with our header, and the quality is fantastic. It is likely the last header you will ever have to buy for your Cruiser!

 

[gonzopancho]

Shipping and import fees are also feeling difficult these days!

For the record, the header and exhaust are both made in the USA, not imported.

TriMeki has an aligned business that does a _lot_ of import, so it's the subject from time to time, especially as fuel prices go up.

 

[Fe3]

Hi,

Thanks for your message.

I think the header is absolutely amazing...

But unfortunately, I still need to save up a bit before I can afford it...

Thank you for your kind words about the header.

We understand your comments about pricing. Shipping and import fees are also feeling difficult these days!

We do feel that the fit is extremely good with our header, and the quality is fantastic. It is likely the last header you will ever have to buy for your Cruiser!

For the record, the header and exhaust are both made in the USA, not imported.

TriMeki has an aligned business that does a _lot_ of import, so it's the subject from time to time, especially as fuel prices go up.

Jürgen, we see your location as Germany.

The above comments about shipping and duties were based on the US origin of our header and exhaust.

Props to @gonzopancho for clarifying!

 

[jtreger]

I installed the header last week, it is a thing of beauty. I opted for the white lightning coating as well, to keep temps down.
A couple of notes:
I have a factory power steering box and there is no room for a heat shield, there's about 1cm of clearance
The coating ran $631 inclusive of return shipping to me. It feels like 150 grit sandpaper.
Noticeable difference in the top end power, acceleration in 3rd gear really shines

Does anyone have sound clips of the whole enchilada? Interested in the exhaust, but really want something quiet.

View attachment 4104570

View attachment 4104571

View attachment 4104572

How do you like the white lighting coating? Mine just got back from Swain Tech but it will be another month or two before the engine rebuild is done. Does it do a good job of keeping the heat down in the engine compartment?

 

[Fe3]

The collector is not a good place to supply an O2 bung. That’s where I used to install mine before Holley changed its guidance to around 8” past the collector.

One thing I do know is If the flange gasket goes and the bung is right there then it takes the O2 with it. That’s one reason I know I moved all mine.

We were talking a little bit about this last week...

From the Holley Sniper Installation Manual: https://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf

This bung location needs to be verified before using it with the Oxygen sensor included in the Sniper EFI system. Ideally the bung will be 6-10 inches after the collector for a true reading of all cylinders and have a minimum of 18" length past the sensor location. If the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, the bung must be between the engine and the catalytic converter. The bung also must be on the top side of the tube so moisture cannot collect on the oxygen sensor.

And:

Locate a position for the oxygen sensor as close to the engine as possible. The oxygen sensor should be mounted at a point where it can read a good average of all the cylinders on one bank. This would be slightly after all the cylinders merge. If you have long tube headers, mount the sensor approximately 6-10" after the collector. You must have at least 18" of exhaust pipe after the sensor.

We know this header is a 6-2-1 design. So where/when do all the cylinders merge? Is it as soon as the 2-1 merge? Or is well after the two have merged into one?

Either way, our header falls right into the 6-10" guidance from Holley.

If we look up into the header, the two collectors combine into one at about eight inches: