FJ40 in tank EFI fuel pump
- Thread starter B y r o n
- Start date
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Byron, I admit I'm not well versed in 3FE fuel injection, don't know what fuel pressure it requires, or if it uses a return line (primarily because I'm a V8 conversion guy). I do, however, go along with Flipper1938's idea about the under floorboard tank, and here's how a 22 gallon rear auxiliary tank may help you:
(1) greater fuel capacity (22 gallon).
(2) nylon tank, lab tested stronger than 14 gauge steel.
(3) nylon, no welded seams, won't rust.
(4) fuel pick-up tube easily converted for in-tank pump.
(5) has return line provision if needed.
(6) many times used as the one and only stand-alone tank, rids passenger compartment of fuel tank.
(7) availably from Marks Off Road or Tojo Products ebay store.
(1) greater fuel capacity (22 gallon).
(2) nylon tank, lab tested stronger than 14 gauge steel.
(3) nylon, no welded seams, won't rust.
(4) fuel pick-up tube easily converted for in-tank pump.
(5) has return line provision if needed.
(6) many times used as the one and only stand-alone tank, rids passenger compartment of fuel tank.
(7) availably from Marks Off Road or Tojo Products ebay store.
- Thread starter
- #23
Jim, no 3FE here. I'm pulling off my old Edelbrock Performer with EGR and replacing it with the newer Performer Air-Gap no EGR. The Holley spreadbore is going to be replaced with Edelbrock E-Street EFI. I was able to pick up a complete kit for less than some bare bones kits. I'll have enough parts to do a full return system and may even opt to hybrid it and enable PWM to reduce load on the turbine type fuel pump. I may even opt to use bulkhead fittings for the fuel lines passing through the floor instead of just grommets even though it will mean a few more fittings.
Over the years I thought about adding the rear tank but thinking is as far as I've ever gotten.
Things always seem to snowball.
I'm not familiar with the Edelbrock E-Street, I know the Holley Pro-Jection did not have good drivability because it did not have enough team players (sensors/senders) to feed enough good info back to the ECU ?????
I have had pretty good luck with my Powerjection, looks like a 4 barrel square bore carb. Pressure regulator is on the fuel line at the carb. Calls for 45 psi if IIRC. Fuel pump on passenger frame rail with filter on firewall rib pass side. Much nicer to drive in the mountains and off camber.
Looking forward to feedback about the pump. I'm most interested to know how loud it is, and if you can hear it while driving. I want to go the same route, but have had past issues with loud in tank pumps (walbro 190 and 255). Hoping this pump is quieter. I'd like to use it or similar for my setup.
Matt
Matt
i bought a walbro external pump set at 9 psi for my 350 tbi. Going to be mounted in the frame with some thin rubber. I hope it wont be too noisy. Easy to change i guess.
- Thread starter
- #29
Are you sure 9 PSI is going to be enough? Most of the EFI's I've looked at operated in the neighborhood of 50 - 60 PSI.
TBI fuel pressure is between 12 and 15 psi. Vortecs need higher pressure. Don't know about brands other than Chebby.
TBI operate in the "to be 9-16 or something" range, the multi port EFI operates in the "neighborhood of 50 - 60 PSI."
I have a 2FE with the Toyota pump in the stock '68 under the seat tank. Can't hear the pump after the engine starts.
Jerry D.
I have a 2FE with the Toyota pump in the stock '68 under the seat tank. Can't hear the pump after the engine starts.
Jerry D.
Edit: Toyota pump = stock FJ62 in-tank pump?
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- Thread starter
- #34
So it looks like I'm past the point of no return. I eyeballed and measured and eyeballed and measured some more. When I think I had the placement figured out I eyeballed and measured again. Then I did this:
The blue painters tape at the top is directly over an internal vertical baffle. I ran a wire in the hole toward the baffle and it indicated that I was far enough away for the the new internal pumps own baffle system. So next step was to complete the hole:
Not really what I wanted to see but not totally unexpected. That is the factory pickup tube that leads to the fuel pump. Luckily, it was not attached at the bottom but was free floating near the bottom of the tank. It actually has an angled cut on the end so it won't get sucked against the bottom of the tank. A little gently coaxing along with some blood letting, since I hadn't deburred the hole yet, moved the tube forward toward the wire clip to clear the new pumps sump system.
Next was drilling the mounting holes. They provide an alignment jig that centers on the hole. You just need to decide the orientation the lines are going to have once mounted. They also provide the drill bit. It will shave a little aluminum off the jig so don't let that bother you.
This jig also serves a second purpose as it is used to insert the new sump assembly without fear of cutting or snagging anything on the 3-1/4" hole it is forced through since it is approximately 5-1/2" in diameter.
I also discovered that I have a little rust forming inside the tank so it is going to get a through cleaning and sealing before I move on with the install.
Once I have things cleaned and resealed I'll complete the install. Also, as you can see in the last photo the new pump is going to be positioned very near where the factory pickup was so I think that is a good thing. Also, this seems to be the only position on the tank that will work and anywhere else and it would interfere with the fuel level sender or not be in the lowest part of the tank. I got a measurement of 9-1/2" from the top of the tank to the bottom so the new pump fits perfectly as it is capable of 5-1/2" to 11" deep.
Once all the drilling is done this is what you have:
The two long screws are also provided and hold the jig while drilling all the holes.
The blue painters tape at the top is directly over an internal vertical baffle. I ran a wire in the hole toward the baffle and it indicated that I was far enough away for the the new internal pumps own baffle system. So next step was to complete the hole:
Not really what I wanted to see but not totally unexpected. That is the factory pickup tube that leads to the fuel pump. Luckily, it was not attached at the bottom but was free floating near the bottom of the tank. It actually has an angled cut on the end so it won't get sucked against the bottom of the tank. A little gently coaxing along with some blood letting, since I hadn't deburred the hole yet, moved the tube forward toward the wire clip to clear the new pumps sump system.
Next was drilling the mounting holes. They provide an alignment jig that centers on the hole. You just need to decide the orientation the lines are going to have once mounted. They also provide the drill bit. It will shave a little aluminum off the jig so don't let that bother you.
This jig also serves a second purpose as it is used to insert the new sump assembly without fear of cutting or snagging anything on the 3-1/4" hole it is forced through since it is approximately 5-1/2" in diameter.
I also discovered that I have a little rust forming inside the tank so it is going to get a through cleaning and sealing before I move on with the install.
Once I have things cleaned and resealed I'll complete the install. Also, as you can see in the last photo the new pump is going to be positioned very near where the factory pickup was so I think that is a good thing. Also, this seems to be the only position on the tank that will work and anywhere else and it would interfere with the fuel level sender or not be in the lowest part of the tank. I got a measurement of 9-1/2" from the top of the tank to the bottom so the new pump fits perfectly as it is capable of 5-1/2" to 11" deep.
Once all the drilling is done this is what you have:
The two long screws are also provided and hold the jig while drilling all the holes.
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Can you take a photo of the entire top of the tank, so that the relative location of the new pump can be seen? What year tank is this?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I used red kote to seal mine b4 I put my intank pump in. I used the tanks inc pump.assembly. curious to see this install. The show gas monkey uses the system ur doing.
- Thread starter
- #37
Hopefully this will help:
Tank is for production date 12/72 (1973 model year) FJ-40. This is the second OEM tank for the vehicle as the original developed leaks so I replaced it with this back around 1986.
- Thread starter
- #40
So I took my tank into a local shop the other day to see about having it cleaned and resealed. To make a long story short they felt that the coating inside the factory tank would prevent a sealer from sticking properly and might flake off. So, it's sitting at home with rust remover in it. I keep changing the position of the tank to hit the areas that need to be cleaned. Not the ideal situation but once I'm satisfied it will be flushed and then put back together.