Howdy guys, been a long time...does anyone know where this ground goes from the “starter solenoid” and what looks to be connected to the green connector?
FJ40 grounds (Where are they?)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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There is no ground wire from the starter solenoid. There is a braided ground strap from the starter to the frame. The only other wires to the solenoid are the start wire from the ignition switch and the ballast resistor bypass wire that connects to the + side of the coil.
Bad communication on my part, sorry was trying to rush on my way out.
Here is where connects on the starter;
Here is what the wire looks like;
Here is wires it’s attached to;
Now I’m really screwed, went to start it after replacing a fuel line, had it connected to a 2amp charger, wife hit the brakes and the battery sparked and I lost all power. Checked all fuses, they are all good. No power at all....
Here is where connects on the starter;
Here is what the wire looks like;
Here is wires it’s attached to;
Now I’m really screwed, went to start it after replacing a fuel line, had it connected to a 2amp charger, wife hit the brakes and the battery sparked and I lost all power. Checked all fuses, they are all good. No power at all....
Thank you for guiding me, Pin_Head!!
The wire coming from the starter is black with a yellow stripe, the mysterious wire is yellow with a black strap and looks to be stock coming from the loom.
Here is the mysterious wire coming from the loom;
The large black wire with yellow stripe should actually be a white stripe, but they look yellow with age is the start wire from the key.. The smaller black with yellow stripe wire connected to the pigtail from the solenoid is the ballast resistor bypass wire. The yellow with black strip may be the oil pressure sender wire just from the location. I don’t have a schematic diagram close by, but if you have one, you can check all the color codes.
Ground thread resurrection:
I noticed this large ground wire was broken and destroyed... It was connected to my clutch slave cyl and to frame.
I put a new wire in but thought it was strange that it was running from there... just found a pic where this is actually connected to the starter. Does not show on any wiring diagram in my Haynes...
I will say that attaching from clutch slave to frame and it still made a BIG difference in starting and light brightness!
Should I go connect that wire to the starter or leave as is??
I noticed this large ground wire was broken and destroyed... It was connected to my clutch slave cyl and to frame.
I put a new wire in but thought it was strange that it was running from there... just found a pic where this is actually connected to the starter. Does not show on any wiring diagram in my Haynes...
I will say that attaching from clutch slave to frame and it still made a BIG difference in starting and light brightness!
Should I go connect that wire to the starter or leave as is??
You can't really have too many grounds. I run a big thick wire from the battery to the mounting bolt of the starter. Plus I have braded one to the engine and the frame
I did exactly this with some zero gauge wire when my starter was having some issues...cured a lot of problems. +1
Don't let the cracked insulation on the OEM cable hold you back. It can be cleaned, and electrical tape used to repair the insulation. The brass lugs that Toyota used seem to be much better than the copper plated junk that you come across in the local auto supply store. The problem is finding lugs for large-gauge cable, but with holes small enough to fit factory grounding screws, or positive leads.
You can buy lugs with small holes. Copper tubing the right size can be soldered to the wire, then pound the excess length flat and drill your hole size.
It is just my perspective, but auto manufactures haven't made cars with SAE hardware for 40-years, or whatever, and the reasonable cable at the auto store has lugs with 3/8-inch holes, and the clamps make you carry a 1/2-inch or 7/16 socket or wrench. That isn't a huge problem, but, then you have to carry an incomplete set, with the remainder interfering with shop organization. The copper lugs are a bit mushy, and the hardware leaves a lasting impression, or it draws out the hole at the thinner sections, if over-torqued, especially because the over-sized hole doesn't sit on the lug or screw the same every time. That is where the original equipment brass lug comes in, it is slightly more durable to fastener tightening, and about 8mm not 3/8-inch (of typical auto store offering). Especially the two-ended lug cable offering, a couple of 3/8-inch holes don't clamp well on the 5/16-inch hardware typical of the cable clamps on the battery posts that would be needed if you were branching, like for a winch, I don't get it.
The original equipment starter positive is 8mm, that is my guess for the fastener on the frame. Maybe the engine hook grounding strap is 10mm? @dazerb Was the original grounding strap connected to the screw (missing) at the clutch slave cylinder?
Interesting. My 84 F150 has both metric and SAE stuff so I carry both in my tool box and tool roll. The 72 FJ40 has mostly OEM metric stuff. I did tap out the skid pan bolts to SAE so I could use stainless steel allen head bolts with large area washers, because back in 82 finding stainless steel metric stuff was a lot harder pre-internet. Yes, correct hole size works better and I'd rather ream the hole out to fit than to make it smaller with a bushed step washer.
I have seen claims that swaged connections are better than soldered ones - I have my doubts. I have never seen the connection of the cast on battery terminal go bad. Crimped on stuff fails often from corrosion crawling under the insulation.
I have seen claims that swaged connections are better than soldered ones - I have my doubts. I have never seen the connection of the cast on battery terminal go bad. Crimped on stuff fails often from corrosion crawling under the insulation.
1911
chupacabra
Me also.
My personal FJ40 non-restoration, non-factory equipment 'wiring code' would ideally include the following:
- No stripped wire crimp terminals that do not have a provision for crimping the wire insulation as well (so the conductor doesn't need to function as structure). Most terminals only make a connection to the conductor itself, not the insulation. The exception for this code being anything that is soldered after it is crimped, which provides a rigid physical connection.
- No direct copper-to-steel electrical conducting connections. Brass ring, bullet, spade connectors and brass lugs terminate copper wire conductors. The problem is sourcing something other than zinc plated copper terminals.
- No stripped wire crimp terminals that do not have a provision for crimping the wire insulation as well (so the conductor doesn't need to function as structure). Most terminals only make a connection to the conductor itself, not the insulation. The exception for this code being anything that is soldered after it is crimped, which provides a rigid physical connection.
- No direct copper-to-steel electrical conducting connections. Brass ring, bullet, spade connectors and brass lugs terminate copper wire conductors. The problem is sourcing something other than zinc plated copper terminals.
yessir, that is where I took it off from...
I added a ground from the battery to the alternator bracket mounting bolt.
So I have battery to frame, battery to alternator bracket/engine block, and starter/engine block to frame grounds. I can lose any one and have no issues.
It was Coolerman’s recommendation as corrosion can interfere with the alternator to engine block grounding.
So I have battery to frame, battery to alternator bracket/engine block, and starter/engine block to frame grounds. I can lose any one and have no issues.
It was Coolerman’s recommendation as corrosion can interfere with the alternator to engine block grounding.
yes it was...
