fj40 driveshafts

[bluecruiser31]

Needed to reach out for info. I need new drive shafts for my cruiser with old bolt pattern{64mmx56mm,10mm bolt}.Read that some folks like converting over to mini truck shafts because they are "stronger" and have a better "angle". But is there any good replacement for the parking brake drum yet???? I also read that some people like cv joints and others don't. Yet still other say that the Toyota u joints are stronger than the 1310 series. I definitely want to keep my truck streetable. Any help is appreciated!

 

[1 Bad FN FJ]

I've ran the stock driveshafts for years with no problems. Stroker small block, turbo 400 auto. Mine had to be lengthen and shorten for my combo. Ran all, or most of the hammer trails, dusy and the rubicon. Oh modified FJ-40. Drive train is tough. Lot has to do with the go pedal. If you try hard enough you can break anything, Kevin.

 

[inkpot]

So why do you need new driveshafts?

 

[shelfboy1]

need a lot more info on your truck to make a smart descision.as asked why do you need new shafts.

 

[bluecruiser31]

I have broken 2 pinion shafts and the upper rear u joint when my cruiser "bottomed out". I have a spring over on fj60 springs and axles. The truck is on 37's, Full cage , sm465 ,3speed TC and a stock 350.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Only way you're going to fix that is to lay off the skinny pedal or go do a dana 60 or ford 9".

Do you have an anti-wrap bar of any kind?

If you don't have a transfer case saver, I'd like to predict that your transfer case is about to break in half, and maybe even if you do.

 

[inkpot]

Only way you're going to fix that is to lay off the skinny pedal or go do a dana 60 or ford 9".

Do you have an anti-wrap bar of any kind?

If you don't have a transfer case saver, I'd like to predict that your transfer case is about to break in half, and maybe even if you do.

In November of 2000, I broke the rear pinion on my Piggy between the bearings and trashed my rear driveshaft due to lack of an anti wrap bar. Way too much throttle on a ruff uphill trying to pull a broken 40 out. I built an anti wrap bar and installed it with a rebuilt rear end and a repaired driveshaft. I am running the stock lower end at the diff and a CV at the upper end. I have hammered it pretty hard, a lot of times, since then, and I have not had a problem with it yet. Good luck John

 

[pardion]

It's easy to redrill any parking brake drum and install new studs to match toy pick up shafts, I use double cardon shafts front and rear on my 40, nice to go down the highway with a little snow at 50 mph with no vibration in 4WD, works good on the trail to .383 V8, SM420, stock TC with a Pardi Plate stiffiner, sprung over with OME springs, 4:11 gears, 37" Goodyears. With no wrap bar. I have never broke a pinion, or driveline. I try to drive more off road than on pavement. But as said before anything can break. John

 

[Bret]

Given some extra skinny pedal the CV portion of the rear grenaded before the joint at the pinion. Like mentioned earlier, with enough abuse anything will let go. Fine spline pinion, split case, wrap bar, poly's in the rear, caught some air going up a steep hill and came down under power. Pretty easy to remove and get home or carry a spare.

 

[bluecruiser31]

Yes the truck has an anti-wrap bar. I have been told that I am a little to timid on that skinny pedal. I will definitely look at a TC saver- who has them and will I need longer bolts? Still would like some info on which drive shaft is stronger. I would have to send my TC drum out to be drilled or replace w some type of conversion.

 

[shelfboy1]

sounds like you have other problems that a stronger drive shaft wont fix.it sounds like pinion shaft is being leverd off due to the way its built.

 

[Bret]

Is it possible that the upper u-joint failed because the driveshaft slip yoke bottomed out when the suspension bottomed out? Are the pinions coarse spline or fine spline? If they are fine spline you can get a multi-drilled flange to fit multiple patterns at the diff end, won't help at the transfer end though.

Worst case the u-joint is a better weak link than the pinion?

 

[inkpot]

I have a local "Old fashion" driveline shop that can work with me on whatever project I am working on. They have built custom CV shafts for both ends of my Piggy at a very reasonable price. I twisted the rear tube ones, so the replaced it with heavier tube. They could of made both shafts with 1330 or 1350 ujoints, but I stayed with the OEM units. I do grease them often, and with the anti wrap I have been 100% failure free for a long time. John

 

[Fast Eddy]

it sounds like pinion shaft is being leverd off due to the way its built.

I agree. I'll bet your anti-wrap bar is not allowing your rear end to flex as it should. Post up some pics. IMO, most of them are wrong.

When I redrilled my e-brake drum I did it on a drill press using the DS flange as a guide. It worked out well.

BTW, I have a minitruck driveline with a CV joint at the drum end. The u-joints are a little smaller than original fj40 joints and a spare u-joint is about $100 from Toyota.

 

[bluecruiser31]

I'll try to get some pictures this week and try to figure out how to get them on the post. Definitely, this problem keeps me from wanting to wheel. Thx for the help.

 

[bluecruiser31]

Finally had a moment to take pictures, sorry a little blurry. These are pictures of my anti-wrap bar setup.