FJ40 3B install coming soon

[Radd Cruisers]

Piro in elbow, nice touch being tapped into the housing.

At first I was not sure about the elbow off the turbo, but after installing and being able to put the eblow in any position you want I relized how cool it really is. And best of all no leaks.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Little monkey fab with the air intake, I would of prefered aluminum but was unable to find something like that on short notice.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

All in all with the turbo set at low boost ran extremely well and spooled up instantly, I really like it............

Now I am battling with the alternator and the power steering lines

 

[sand rider]

radd, i was thinking about doing the same thing, putting a 3b or 2h and a h55 into my 68, how much more is needed besides the engine and the tranny?

Jonathan/SandRider

 

[tucker74]

Wow Rob - that's one slick conversion you've got almost completed. Any ideas the difference in cost going this way compared to finding a 13BT/h55 combo to swap? Now you've got me thinking....wanna do a '76 next

Wish you weren't so damn far away!

Tucker

 

[Radd Cruisers]

[quote author=SandRider link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171102#msg171102 date=1086692068]
radd, i was thinking about doing the same thing, putting a 3b or 2h and a h55 into my 68, how much more is needed besides the engine and the tranny?

Jonathan/SandRider
[/quote]

I would have to say no big part are needed, lots of hoses clamps, steel to make motor mounts. Drive shafts lengthened and shortened, hump needs modifying.

We hooked up all the acessories to the 3B and it they all work, starter hooked up no problem.

Short coming today is the alternator interfacing and a fuel leak that is starving the engine.

Glow plugs are on a manual rocker switch with relay, we switched to the 10.5 plugs in case they are held on too long. The 6 volt plugs are senesitive and if the owner is not very careful they could pop all four of them.

We have not figured out how to shut the engine off, looking at a hard lined plumbed into the cab to pull the fuel shut off on the injection pump.

I under estimated this job and was gunning for a finish on Sunday and we are into Tuesday with a short list of small items to run through.

The owner has been here since Sunday, he and his friend plan on running up the Island and taking a ferry to the Queen Sharlets. One of the most beautiful places on earth from what I have been told by fisherman and very remote.

These guys are from California and I have put them up in the Radd Cruiser Inn, they are being very patient.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

[quote author=tucker74 link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171173#msg171173 date=1086705514]
Wow Rob - that's one slick conversion you've got almost completed. Any ideas the difference in cost going this way compared to finding a 13BT/h55 combo to swap? Now you've got me thinking....wanna do a '76 next

Wish you weren't so damn far away!

Tucker
[/quote]

I would have a short list on the 74, it would be best to keep it real simple and use as little of the electrics as possible and this makes for less to go wrong.

On the 13BT I would scaveng twelve volt senders from a 3B or anything that would come off the gasser and fit.

Change the alternator over too twelve volt and have a 24 volt start(far superior starter).

You could deal with the shut off either by a 12 to 24( not sure if they exist) or in my case I would have a small shut off button on the dash that I would run throught 24 volt start system.

OR you could ditch all the 12 volt stuff and put 24 volt gauges bulbs heater motors, senders bulbs. Guess you would have to weigh out the pros and cons.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Rob,

I'll have to post up the pics of the FJ55/3B/Volvo turbo now that the engine install is nearly there. I'm just waiting for the rad as I got a shop to swap the bottom connection to suit the 3B better at the same time as a recore.

If you don't mind my asking what did the gauges cost. Seems like in Vancouver I couldn't find the boost and pyro for under $400 Canadian and then it wasn't even in stock. I ended up going the mail order route and got Isspro gauges like my BJ60 for about $200 US. I like the Isspro pyrometer because the 1000 and below range is green, 1000 thru 1200 range is yellow and the 1200+ range is red. It gives you an "at a glance" picture of where you are.

What is the opinion on pyrometer placement? I put my BJ60 pyrometer pre-turbo as I was most concerned with cracking the head but it seems I'm the only one putting it there. I read/heard somewhere that people install it post turbo in case the pyrometer thermocouple disintegrates. The manufacturers assure me that does not happen though.

Do you know if the ICBC vehicle inspectors will fail me if I don't install a muffler on the FJ55? There isn't one on the BJ60 and the cops and Aircare have not bothered me. It is slightly noisier in the rear (sounds kind of like a boat engine).

 

[The Dude]

[quote author=cruiser_guy link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171673#msg171673 date=1086753971]
Rob,

What is the opinion on pyrometer placement? I put my BJ60 pyrometer pre-turbo as I was most concerned with cracking the head but it seems I'm the only one putting it there. I read/heard somewhere that people install it post turbo in case the pyrometer thermocouple disintegrates. The manufacturers assure me that does not happen though.

[/quote]

I know I am not Rob.....

I am a firm believer in running the pyro pre-turbo. It only makes sense. You want to know exactly what the temps coming out of the engine are.. and going into the turbo. I have ran this set up on all my deisel Cruisers and my Duramax. I even went dual pyros on the V8 to get an acurate reading off of both sides of the engine!! As for the pyro braking off....This sounds like one of those urban myths. I have always heard that Johny's uncle Frank knows a guy who knows a guy and he had a pyro break off and go through the turbo and it cost him $$$$$$. I have never actually met someone that this has happend to. :-\


just my 2 cents

 

[Radd Cruisers]

[quote author=cruiser_guy link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171673#msg171673 date=1086753971]
Rob,

I'll have to post up the pics of the FJ55/3B/Volvo turbo now that the engine install is nearly there. I'm just waiting for the rad as I got a shop to swap the bottom connection to suit the 3B better at the same time as a recore.

If you don't mind my asking what did the gauges cost. Seems like in Vancouver I couldn't find the boost and pyro for under $400 Canadian and then it wasn't even in stock. I ended up going the mail order route and got Isspro gauges like my BJ60 for about $200 US. I like the Isspro pyrometer because the 1000 and below range is green, 1000 thru 1200 range is yellow and the 1200+ range is red. It gives you an "at a glance" picture of where you are.

What is the opinion on pyrometer placement? I put my BJ60 pyrometer pre-turbo as I was most concerned with cracking the head but it seems I'm the only one putting it there. I read/heard somewhere that people install it post turbo in case the pyrometer thermocouple disintegrates. The manufacturers assure me that does not happen though.

Do you know if the ICBC vehicle inspectors will fail me if I don't install a muffler on the FJ55? There isn't one on the BJ60 and the cops and Aircare have not bothered me. It is slightly noisier in the rear (sounds kind of like a boat engine).
[/quote]

The gauges were over night and came to a little over 300 Canadian, the boost not much its the darn Pyro.

I have only seen the bung for the piros welded after the turbo, how much do you think the EGTs will differ once past the wheel?

Sometimes we seems to over analize and I think if you run reasonable numbers you will never have a problem.

I have often thought about putting a screen on the exhaust side in case of a ring blowing by a piston(like Toms) and taking out the turbo. My guess it would reduce boost.

Not sure about the inspection, they are not the sharpest knife in the drawer and I would expect they would not notice(just a guess).

I wished we swapped the rad bottom from right to left, it would have saved some time overall.

We spent to much time trying to make the shroud, the fan is below the rad and I would suggest for my customer to go with a electric fan.

On another note, we chased what seemed to be a fuel leak(air getting into the system), well it was a install problem after all. We routed the line up and around the fire wall and fuel, this somehow introduced air into the system. After many hours of chasing the fuel lines I pulled out the line and strapped a soft line on the lower chasis across the injection pump and problem solved.

It seemed any small problem that could crop up did and I did learn quite a bit.

Alternator was the easy fix, in my head it was going to be difficult and after reading the schematics it clicked.

Oh and the long range fuel tank would not fit, I never took into acount the lower shocks sticking out, I only took measurements up inside of the frame rails. :whoops:

 

[cruiser_guy]

[quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171683#msg171683 date=1086756446]
I have only seen the bung for the piros welded after the turbo, how much do you think the EGTs will differ once past the wheel?

Sometimes we seems to over analize and I think if you run reasonable numbers you will never have a problem.[/quote]

Physics says that the temperature of a gas decreases when the pressure on that gas decreases (that's the secret of A/C). I have no idea of how much the EGT's differ (maybe Big Blue can enlighten us as he has dual pyro's on his V8 Duramax).

[quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171683#msg171683 date=1086756446]
We spent to much time trying to make the shroud, the fan is below the rad and I would suggest for my customer to go with a electric fan.
[/quote]

I didn't plan it but the 3B fan was almost perfectly aligned with the 2F shroud. The 2F shroud just needed a 4" extension.

[quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171683#msg171683 date=1086756446]
On another note, we chased what seemed to be a fuel leak(air getting into the system), well it was a install problem after all. We routed the line up and around the fire wall and fuel, this somehow introduced air into the system. After many hours of chasing the fuel lines I pulled out the line and strapped a soft line on the lower chasis across the injection pump and problem solved.
[/quote]

Are you saying that the fuel line, if run higher than the injection pump, may cause fuel starvation problems? I mounted a Racor filter (sans element because of suction head concerns since there is a fuel filter on the engine anyways) up on the fender next to the brake booster (it's well above the injection pump) since the '55 never had a water separator . Do you anticipate problems with this setup?

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I personally had problems pulling the fuel up and across the fire wall.

Now in saying that the BJ70 has a water seperator mounted high on the firewall?

We spent countless hours trying to find a leak and replaced all lines, still no luck. Once we dropped the line down under the frame it instantly stopped sucking air.

I cannot explain this other than the water seperator acting as a reservoir and keeping suction in the line, or maybe there was a check valve in the tank?

Rob

 

[The Dude]

[quote author=cruiser_guy link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171702#msg171702 date=1086759211]Physics says that the temperature of a gas decreases when the pressure on that gas decreases (that's the secret of A/C). I have no idea of how much the EGT's differ (maybe Big Blue can enlighten us as he has dual pyro's on his V8 Duramax).
[/quote]

I don't have it on either side of the turbo, I have both pre-turbo, one on each side of the exhaust before it enters the y to the turbo.....

I have heard that you will lose anywhere from 100*-200* on the downside of the turbo. I don't know how accurate these numbers as I have never done a comparison. In most aplication I don't think it will matter. But if you start playing with big boost, propane injection, adding more fuel or towing big loads, I personally feel it is better to get it off of the engine before it hits the turbo. It's heat that can kill heads and turbos and well, it's just bad for everything...............

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I guess in a application were you will be maxing out the engine and want big HP and loose engine life that would be the place to plumb the the pyro.

In our case we are running 8 PSI and the EGTs are not going above 7000.

 

[cruiser_guy]

[quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171920#msg171920 date=1086802670]
I guess in a application were you will be maxing out the engine and want big HP and loose engine life that would be the place to plumb the the pyro.

In our case we are running 8 PSI and the EGTs are not going above 7000.


[/quote]

7000 I assume you mean 700 . I run 8 psi boost on the BJ60 and I have NOT adjusted my fuel delivery. I can get 1200 pre turbo on my EGT's when I'm pushing it! Normal operation is 700 - 800 deg.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

oooops one to many zeros

 

[Radd Cruisers]

[quote author=cruiser_guy link=board=12;threadid=16126;start=msg171981#msg171981 date=1086807546]
7000 I assume you mean 700 . I run 8 psi boost on the BJ60 and I have NOT adjusted my fuel delivery. I can get 1200 pre turbo on my EGT's when I'm pushing it! Normal operation is 700 - 800 deg.
[/quote]

Hmmm, we are running the same boost and not touched the motor and getting no more than 700 at 8PSI, no tweaking of the fuel pump either.

After the turbo pyro numbers of 1000 seem pretty much the limit if you loose 200degrees at the wheel?

Once we get the little things done I will play with it a little bit more and see if we can get a little more out of the engine.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I've been in touch with AXT in Australia and they have advised that 1150 - 1200 for short duration is OK. For extended operation if would be excessive.
I only reach 1200 under acceleration and up a hill.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Fuel shut off device

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

How much does an intercooler (if it does) effect EGT temps?

TB