Not yet, haven't found if you lose a lot of coolant when you change it. If so then I want to do a full drain and refill with Toyota coolant, but don't have any. Project isn't at the top of my list right now, so when I'm bored I'm going to do it.
I got the green striped hose and those clamps because it is an upgrade from OEM. Plus it is much cheaper than going with silicon hose, without loosing reliability.
The hose kit was on AJIK when I bought the DC shaft. Hose plus clamps was only $20....
Congrats on your Cruiser. Nice work. Just wanted to put in my 2 cents on the coolant change. Not sure what coolant brand is in ur engine now, but if changing to Toyota's Red Coolant, from a non Toyota Red Coolant, bad things can happen if certain procedures are not followed. In any event, which ever coolant you decide on, do a full flush on your system... if never done, you will see a lot of small debri,,,,,, hopefully just dirt.......not gasket or seal material.......lol
You may know this already, but in case you don't ,,,, you must do a complete drain and full flush , at least 2 times or more. Draining from the radiator coil is not enough, with most of the coolant in the block and the 2 heater cores in the cab, you will need to pull the engine block drain plug " Brass plug" on the driver's side wheel well, you will find some rubber flat skirts, remove the little plastic plug clips and they pull off to get more room to the engine. Remove the brass plug gently.
Use only distlled water,, lots of it, do not use a water hose, wells and public water systems have a lot of minerals in them,,,, not good for a radiator flush,,,,, you will use a lot of distilled water.
It is recomended to follow the FSM Manual on a full flush which includes removing the old thermostat and gasket. Some members even ran the engine with distilled water, to ensure the old coolant was removed, only for a small period of time via idiling the engine. make sure the heater is on , so the system is fully opened and the distilled water can circulate through the 2 heating cores in the cab, that is if you run your engine at idle for a short time to ensure the distlled water is getting every where. Technically , this is suppose to be repeated untill the water is clear as possible. As mentioned, you will need a lot of distilled water.
At this point replace the 3 main radiator hoses and your PHH project.
Do a search on here using the letters PHH and you will come across threads like switching from GREEN to RED which is a coolant conversion thread,, quite a few on here.
If not done correctly , you can damage the head gasket, have serious chemical reactions within the engine and coolant systems. Toyota's coolant is a excellant product, the problem is that it does not react well with over the counter brands and will cause serious serious chemical reaction. It takes a while, maybe 50,000 miles, but the damage will be done, and engine and gasket work will be needed. It is a simple , but timely procedure,, but a important one.
Not trying to scare you, but , just looking out, it is what we do on here. In my personal opinion, if you knew what the previous PO used, and have no issues with a over the counter Coolant like Prestone, leave it. It is not the coolants that are the probelm , it is the switching of the coolants that is the issue. I have been using Prestone 50/50 pre mix for many years, I do a full flush and refill every 2 years or less. It is cheap insurance to help engine life, pluss you get to see what is in your fluid and if any mixing of engine oils due bad seals and gaskets.
When removing the thermostat, replace it with a new one and a gasket to go with it. Toyota parts are worth every penny. do it the right way the first time....lol
PS - Your cruiser is awesome,,love that color


CRUISER TIME