first timer doing the rear bearings...thoughts?

[HardyDanger]

Hey all - gonna be digging into the rear axles this weekend to replace a bad bearing. Hoping this wont be a repeat of my cranky crank bolt job.

I've read the threads and watched the powermods video / terrain tamer vids too.

I've got a 54mm axle socket, so I'm going to fab it up with the notches to act as the sst for lock washer.

I got the full bearing/seal kit from cruiser outfitters. I've got grease. I got a couple extra axle studs and cone washers.

I'm not doing the brakes - PO had the rotors turned and pads at 9mm.

I'm gonna replace all 12 wheel studs too since some bozo used red locktite on one and it sheared off (I have a spare old lug nut and washer stack to re-seat new studs.)

I got a fish scale. I got the FSM pages printed.

Any advise for a first timer?
1> making sure the bearings are seated
2> to use rtv or not on the cones and gaskets
3> any traps or things that aren't obvious?
4> cleaning the ABS gear teeth...

thanks in advance!

 

[landcrshr]

I just did mine too.

Having an impact driver for the Phillips-head screws on the lock ring is a good idea.

Let me know if you want to borrow mine.

 

[2fpower]

laminate the FSM pages.

 

[HardyDanger]

I just did mine too.

Having an impact driver for the Phillips-head screws on the lock ring is a good idea.

Let me know if you want to borrow mine.

Thanks. Got one +JIS bits from doing the oil pump cover.

 

[ajax1]

Do not use rtv on the cones or really anywhere, second the impact and number 3 bit, I use needle nose pilers for the sst, I also do not use fish scale make sure to spin the nut both directions go tight then loose to seat bearings, make sure new race is fully seated in clean hub, drain axle first

 

[noahfecks]

pretty simple job if you skip all the fun of stripping out the JIS set screws with a #3 phillips

I used my drift to loosen/snug tight the spindle nut

 

[thatcabledude]

^Yeah, if you don't have the SST just use a brass drift. I wouldn't bother cutting the socket.

 

[HardyDanger]

great. I got brass drift set!

 

[BILT4ME]

^Yeah, if you don't have the SST just use a brass drift. I wouldn't bother cutting the socket.

Except when it comes time to torque the nuts back on........

 

[BILT4ME]

Torque wrench and brass hammer. Unscrew the nuts, make them flush with the stud, then stroke it with the BRASS hammer and the cones will pop out. Do NOT hit the hub on the outside of the axle flange.

 

[thatcabledude]

Except when it comes time to torque the nuts back on........

No, it's good then too.

 

[GeoRoss]

Thanks. Got one +JIS bits from doing the oil pump cover.

The impact driver will make your life easier. The one you hit with a hammer.

 

[HardyDanger]

Unscrew the nuts, make them flush with the stud.

Is that so the cone washers dont get lost in the process? Check. Thanks.

 

[HardyDanger]

The impact driver will make your life easier. The one you hit with a hammer.

As in old school mechanical version? Not my Milwaukee 18v impact driver? Curious as to advantage? Why?

Also been hitting the axel studs with PB blaster last couple days.

 

[GeoRoss]

As in old school mechanical version? Not my Milwaukee 18v impact driver? Curious as to advantage? Why?

Also been hitting the axel studs with PB blaster last couple days.

No real difference really. If you have an impact driver use it. I was thinking if you don't have an impact driver, the old school hammer impact drivers are cheap and will make your day much nicer.

 

[HardyDanger]

No real difference really. If you have an impact driver use it. I was thinking if you don't have an impact driver, the old school hammer impact drivers are cheap and will make your day much nicer.

Cool.

My 18v impact driver gets used more than any tool I own. Originally bought it when I started remodeling my house. Then built a deck. Then a fence. Then a retaining wall. Then did everything else around the house.

Now finding it is go to tool for the LC too!!

Thought as of late. Have been debating buying the Milwaukee 18v high torque impact wrench, that thing is bad a$$.

 

[HardyDanger]

Btw. Posted this before. But the makita impact gold #3 bit is an amazingly good proxy for the JIS #3.

They made short work of the #3s in the oil pump cover with zero cam out.

I couldn't find impact grade JIS bits, but have a standard grade set.

I've def snapped non impact rated bits with the Milwaukee before, so makitas for me.

 

[GeoRoss]

Btw. Posted this before. But the makita impact gold #3 bit is an amazingly good proxy for the JIS #3.

They made short work of the #3s in the oil pump cover with zero cam out.

I couldn't find impact grade JIS bits, but have a standard grade set.

I've def snapped non impact rated bits with the Milwaukee before, so makitas for me.

Try these folks.

Impact | Screwdrivers | Hand Tools | VESSEL TOOLS

 

[LINUS]

I just did mine too.

Having an impact driver for the Phillips-head screws on the lock ring is a good idea.

Let me know if you want to borrow mine.

I prefer the impact driver myself as you are hitting to twist, makes stripping the screw far less a possibility.

laminate the FSM pages.

A easy tip for redundant jobs like FAS, or rear axle service too - take a paper FSM to any local Office Depot, Office Max, etc -
- copy in 11" x 17" format & you take 2 pages at a time. Economical & you can toss once it's more grease than ink.

 

[Hornd]

Torch Heat --> PB Blaster (Acetone&Tranny Fluid?) --> Impact Driver
Repeat ~3X

If that doesn't work then

If that doesn't work then