Nice 35s sure would be appropriate. On my trip there were a few times i wish i had them.
Builds First LC, HZJ77 Build "Kengo"
- Thread starter Blomdala
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- #402
I think it would look a little more balanced, but I also think 33s have too little of sidewall for 17s
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- #403
Well things have been a little busy here with work and all my offspring. But I’ve been able to chip away at a few things here and there in the Cruiser. I finally replaced all the over flare gaskets(I’ve had the parts for about 3 years 
) which makes me feel better about driving in the snow this winter. In my head I just picture all the mag chloride going right in the crack and corroding. Reality is it’s just going to shoot in from the bottom lol. But it looks nicer either way.
On a few of the fenders I saw pop rivets, which I thought was odd, but hey I’m not the engineer. Well my hunches were correct, some dingbat put pop rivets in to nuts that has no issue with threads. So after careful drilling and “pressing” I was able to clean up the junk in the threads and toss a proper bolt back in. Sometimes people amaze me. Seems like that was a harder option? But the truck looks much better with nice gaskets.
Side note, when I ordered gaskets from partsouq, I just ordered 2x of the front gaskets because it was cheaper and the “shipping weight” was more. There was enough to cut it and do both halves of the rear flares.
) which makes me feel better about driving in the snow this winter. In my head I just picture all the mag chloride going right in the crack and corroding. Reality is it’s just going to shoot in from the bottom lol. But it looks nicer either way. On a few of the fenders I saw pop rivets, which I thought was odd, but hey I’m not the engineer. Well my hunches were correct, some dingbat put pop rivets in to nuts that has no issue with threads. So after careful drilling and “pressing” I was able to clean up the junk in the threads and toss a proper bolt back in. Sometimes people amaze me. Seems like that was a harder option? But the truck looks much better with nice gaskets.
Side note, when I ordered gaskets from partsouq, I just ordered 2x of the front gaskets because it was cheaper and the “shipping weight” was more. There was enough to cut it and do both halves of the rear flares.
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- #404
I wanted to have a less bulky phone mount so I make a little adapter for a MagSafe charger I had to mount under the dash pad. It’s ok, but I need bend a seam in it for stability, and the magnet isn’t strong enough for big bumps. It falls right off ha. Fun project, but needs some revision.
I also had been battling with some death wobbles so I replaced my TREs with a “555” kit from @cruiseroutfit which was a home run. Beautiful set, arrived in a couple of days and was very affordable. Thankful to have them as a resource here in the states. It’s been fun getting under other vehicles that I help on and seeing all the “555” on all the Toyotas.
I also had been battling with some death wobbles so I replaced my TREs with a “555” kit from @cruiseroutfit which was a home run. Beautiful set, arrived in a couple of days and was very affordable. Thankful to have them as a resource here in the states. It’s been fun getting under other vehicles that I help on and seeing all the “555” on all the Toyotas.
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- #405
I also got a line on some 35s 
so I started a couple more prep items to make that happen. I had to move my front reservoirs becuase they would contact a 35. I put them under the frame like @coldtaco recommended. Was able to use some existing threaded holes and add a nutsert to another existing hole. I opened up the bracket holes a bit too.
I had purchased some aftermarket read door hinges and started getting them installed. They seem pretty nice, very similar to the originals. It was a little off when I had one old and one new, but when they were both replaced everything lined up correctly. And so far no leaks after rain and a car wash. I only did the small door, more to remove to do the big door lol.
so I started a couple more prep items to make that happen. I had to move my front reservoirs becuase they would contact a 35. I put them under the frame like @coldtaco recommended. Was able to use some existing threaded holes and add a nutsert to another existing hole. I opened up the bracket holes a bit too. I had purchased some aftermarket read door hinges and started getting them installed. They seem pretty nice, very similar to the originals. It was a little off when I had one old and one new, but when they were both replaced everything lined up correctly. And so far no leaks after rain and a car wash. I only did the small door, more to remove to do the big door lol.
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- #406
Was lucky enough to get to weasel my way into the new Land Cruiser launch at the heritage museum. Love being around all the old cruisers, especially the 70 section, and am really excited for the new rig. It’s not a 70 but lots of great things on it and hoping to convince the wife to make it her new daily in the future! Also nice to see they used 70s for some design aspects, the windows are huge just like a 70 which I really like. Seems like new vehicles are filled with blind spots now.
I drove my cruiser out there, so I had to swing by Cruiser outfitters to get a picture!
I drove my cruiser out there, so I had to swing by Cruiser outfitters to get a picture!
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- #407
After the drive to and from SLC, my new dampener arrived and it was a quick install. It works REALLY well, very controlled steering on road now which is great. I also was able to finagle some 35s (I had to mount a balance a bunch of tires at the same time as part of affording them lol).
Fun to have 35s, a few areas of touching when stuffing (mainly my 3” down pipe) but the price was right. If I was paying full price I would look for narrow tires to help. But I’m hoping the extra diameter will help out next year with a plan to do rubicon trail.
Drivability feels pretty much the same as my 33s were. At some point I’d love to put 4:1 t case gears in which would bring my high range back to factory RPM with 35s.
Fun to have 35s, a few areas of touching when stuffing (mainly my 3” down pipe) but the price was right. If I was paying full price I would look for narrow tires to help. But I’m hoping the extra diameter will help out next year with a plan to do rubicon trail.
Drivability feels pretty much the same as my 33s were. At some point I’d love to put 4:1 t case gears in which would bring my high range back to factory RPM with 35s.
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- #408
Finally pulled the trigger on some new mud flaps. The bubbly original ones were not the most beautiful things. You can still get the same ones that were in here, but they were more expensive, and I kind of like the newer style that are extended. I figured worst case is id trim the extra lip if I don’t like it. The main section is almost identical.
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- #409
There was a super crusty bolt that I now realize was drilled through the flare due to damage. It broke off pretty easy, putting a new bolt on wasn’t super easy but I got it to work.
The new style flaps have better “sealing” than the old ones. Less open cavities and such which it a benefit. I also like the “rally”/“Dakar” feel haha. I know that’s a stretch lol.
These are going to be really nice this winter with the extra protection thought!
The new style flaps have better “sealing” than the old ones. Less open cavities and such which it a benefit. I also like the “rally”/“Dakar” feel haha. I know that’s a stretch lol.
These are going to be really nice this winter with the extra protection thought!
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- #410
Well I’ve been spending alot of time working on other peoples trucks, and snuck a Japan trip in there, and now I’m finally getting a project done on the 77.
A few weeks ago I grabbed a 12$ GPS Speedo to try out. It is great lol, way too big but I love having correct digital speed shown.
Finally had enough points to take the Mrs over to Japan again, and this trip was split into 4 parts: visiting friends, eating food, buying parts, looking for cool cars lol. All of them went over well.
Saw a unique (for Japan) 79 there
A nice mini car 76
And was able to sneak in a day at the mobility show to check out the new 70
As expected, the firewall back hasn’t changed and I’m happy about that lol.
A few weeks ago I grabbed a 12$ GPS Speedo to try out. It is great lol, way too big but I love having correct digital speed shown.
Finally had enough points to take the Mrs over to Japan again, and this trip was split into 4 parts: visiting friends, eating food, buying parts, looking for cool cars lol. All of them went over well.
Saw a unique (for Japan) 79 there
A nice mini car 76
And was able to sneak in a day at the mobility show to check out the new 70
As expected, the firewall back hasn’t changed and I’m happy about that lol.
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- #411
On the parts side of things, @FJ73Texas as usual has some great PN info on mud so I was able to grab my door parts needed at a great price to swap to the exposed door style. Fun fact, the front door inner seals are the exact size of a hard sided large suitcase going diagonally lol.
I was going to buy door cars, but that wouldn’t fit in a suitcase, and they were really expensive compared to the other parts. And since no one is looking for ZX style cards, I didn’t feel so bad trimming them. The staples were pretty stiff, but over all a simple process. I’m happy with the end results and all the trim still matches in the truck! Love seeing the exposed door edge (the real 70 way) and the opportunity for sole arms rest in the future!
I was going to buy door cars, but that wouldn’t fit in a suitcase, and they were really expensive compared to the other parts. And since no one is looking for ZX style cards, I didn’t feel so bad trimming them. The staples were pretty stiff, but over all a simple process. I’m happy with the end results and all the trim still matches in the truck! Love seeing the exposed door edge (the real 70 way) and the opportunity for sole arms rest in the future!
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- #413
When you don’t have any parts budget left, you have to get creative
They fit perfect, the top few sports are missing the little locking posts, they didn’t have them due to the metal top. But the door handle and arm rest do the job fine
I bet that some Velcro on the top can fix that too. I always hated popping the trim clips on the top section (not easy to reach and pop off without any damage to the board in that section) so may do that myself next time I remove the door cards.
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- #415
Haven’t had a ton of time to mess around on the truck, but finally got things moving on armor.
I got a set of 5th gen 4Runner sliders from a friend who bent them (thankfully just the mounting plate, the rest of them are great) who knows if it’s free, it’s for me. Surprisingly, they are basically the perfect length!
I’d like to make the outer tube be 3x1.5 tubing but budget is slim right now so that will be a later project. Functionality will be great now, that will just help the form fill the void where my factory steps were.
I was worried about getting the steps off, but about 3/4 of the bolts came out no issue! No corrosion under there which was nice to see. I can’t believe how much taller the truck looks with no steps lol.
2 of the legs were long enough I just cut about 2” off them and it was the perfect length. The front will need another 1/2 or so of material added to get it to the frame. But not bad at all!
I got a set of 5th gen 4Runner sliders from a friend who bent them (thankfully just the mounting plate, the rest of them are great) who knows if it’s free, it’s for me
. Surprisingly, they are basically the perfect length! I’d like to make the outer tube be 3x1.5 tubing but budget is slim right now so that will be a later project. Functionality will be great now, that will just help the form fill the void where my factory steps were.
I was worried about getting the steps off, but about 3/4 of the bolts came out no issue! No corrosion under there which was nice to see. I can’t believe how much taller the truck looks with no steps lol.
2 of the legs were long enough I just cut about 2” off them and it was the perfect length. The front will need another 1/2 or so of material added to get it to the frame. But not bad at all!
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- #416
Look at that ground clearance!!
This is also giving me a chance to put the plasma table to work. It’s a recent addition but it’s been needing tuning. It’s not perfect but for mounting plates from scrap material it’s working great!
I’ve got ubolts in the mail, once they arrive I’ll be able to bolt the plates to the frame and get to fitting! For now, the sliders are on pause.
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- #417
I got a chance to hit up the local metal yard for some remnants, I needed some hefty bar stock so I’ll be able to make a slider leg that will go around my exhaust pipe and I also needed material to start my transmission pan/tcase protection. I scored, they had some great stuff. Found some 1/2” and 3/8” bar stock that is going to go to slider duty, and some 0.25 wall tubing for my transmission frame.
My same slider donation friend also tossed me an old tundra TRD skid plate. 1/4” aluminum and perfectly sized. Notice how similar it’s shaped to my factory cover! It will be a great “skin” to the frame I’m planning.
Unfortunately I don’t own a tubing bender. But I’m not worried about cutting and welding for this application. I can always at gussets later. I don’t plan on resting the truck in this skid, just want a little piece of mind for my tender underbelly.
It’s got a bit over 1/4” gap to the pan and to the drive shaft, so I’m happy with that location!
My same slider donation friend also tossed me an old tundra TRD skid plate. 1/4” aluminum and perfectly sized. Notice how similar it’s shaped to my factory cover! It will be a great “skin” to the frame I’m planning.
Unfortunately I don’t own a tubing bender. But I’m not worried about cutting and welding for this application. I can always at gussets later. I don’t plan on resting the truck in this skid, just want a little piece of mind for my tender underbelly.
It’s got a bit over 1/4” gap to the pan and to the drive shaft, so I’m happy with that location!
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- #418
I also bought some angle iron at the yard because it’s so dang handy. And it immediately became handy in this case lol. There was a nice frame hole from the original trans cover that I wanted to use and a little angle iron did the trick.
Since it just needs to hold it up in place, I’m not too worried. The strength needed is force upwards which the bolt isn’t doing anything with. Worst case scenario I’ll drill and rivnut an additional larger bolt up there later.
I want to run some stringers on the side of the pan so that it’s sort is boxed in and I can worry less about the skid skin deflecting, so I started mocking and cutting. A little front over hang to help the front of the pan stay safe (and that oddly placed dip stick tube)
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- #419
stringers notched to get them mostly flush with the tube and the crossmember.
Added 2 more mounting points in the rear of the frame to hold it in place. Again, upward force will now go to the cross member.
After some welding (and yes, plenty of grinding lol) I had the frame burned in and bolting in place well!
Was able to keep a slightly upward slanted profile which I’m happy about. I should be able to get one long piece of skid plate to go from the very front, all the way past the t case. It will bolt over the cross member (so I’ll lose 1/4” of ground clearance there). After that’s up I’ll work on a brace for the t case like is made for 80 series. Happy to be making a little progress!!
Added 2 more mounting points in the rear of the frame to hold it in place. Again, upward force will now go to the cross member.
After some welding (and yes, plenty of grinding lol) I had the frame burned in and bolting in place well!
Was able to keep a slightly upward slanted profile which I’m happy about. I should be able to get one long piece of skid plate to go from the very front, all the way past the t case. It will bolt over the cross member (so I’ll lose 1/4” of ground clearance there). After that’s up I’ll work on a brace for the t case like is made for 80 series. Happy to be making a little progress!!
