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This thread REALLY makes me want to put 35's on my 73.
Ive gone back and forth about it! I love the size, I'd like them a little narrower. I was stoked to get 23MPG in my 33s, so I'll be bummed if that tanks. After a regear I think most the down sides will go away. The only remaining bummer is that full lock to the right and stuffing the tire hits my exhaust down pipe, so I am worried about that damaging my turbo housing if I'm not careful due to leverage on the pipe.
Overall I'm happy with larger tires. Just that lingering thing lol.
I’m behind on updates!
After some torching and pressing of the original tundra trd skid plate, it ended up just about the perfect shape. I’d take a little more meat on the RH side of the rear but it will still work!
I was able to use one threaded hole from the cross member, and then added 2 nutserts to the frame I made
Fabbed up a little rear brace to the crossmember, pretty happy with how that came out. Also used some scrap bar stock to give it a little more rigidity under the very bottom of the t case.
Happy with the end result and that it’s got a little bit of angle to it, it’s also about as high as I can be which is great.
My custom Ubolts finally arrived so it’s back to sliders!
Decided to be lazy and use the lift to hold them up this time lol.
Still amazed how well these line up
things are looking good for the rear legs (about perfect to avoid cross members and such). The front leg will need some custom solution since the frame goes in and up.
Thinking that barstock was going to be my solution to the 3rd leg on the RH side (exhaust clearance) I decided to make a little press brake so I can bend some. Fun evening project that hopefully will be helpful later as well!
Before I could get back to sliders, my replacement glow plugs arrived! It’s been struggling to start and super smoky/rough anytime it’s below 40 degrees it feels like.
Amazed that I could remove all of them without taking off the intake pipe!
Looks much better!
The truck was cold soaked to about 28 degrees and started instantly, no rough idle with the new plugs lol. Should have done this a long time ago!!!
Ok back to sliders. Got the rear legs burned in on both sides, then started formulating a plan for the front leg on the LH side first.
I made a 3/8 plate ubolt mount, then used 1/2” plate for some runners to the leg.
Unfortunately my skid plate mount prevents the ubolt from sliding all the way to where the leg is, so it’s a little off, but I added a lot of plate and a brace so I’m hopeful It will remain nice and rigid!!
I could have tried to cut the leg off and move things around, but I felt like it would look even more wonky than this lol. Plus this is all remnant steel so it’s cheap!
The RH side is a little more odd since the exhaust is there. I cut the leg almost all the way off, and used some 3/16 wall tubing to make the leg. I was worried about strength so I added 1/2” plate to the bend area, and as the gusset on the ubolt plate side as well as 1/4” plate on the slider side. I’m feeling pretty good about it, but it is not a looker lol.
After all this I added 1/4” side plates to the mounting plates for the rear 4 mounts to help with their rigidity, as well as some gussets to each leg. Hopefully over done rather than underdone, just want reliable armor! Next up is getting warm enough weather to raptorline it all!
had a warm spell this week so I got the new armor painted. I went with raptorliner as I was impressed with its performance on a friends cruiser body. I would have loved to get it a little smoother, but since I have kits that will be stepping on these I’m not upset about the functionality they will have with this texture. Low cost, durable, and easy to touch up were the driving force.
I also figured I’d replace my front output shaft seal as it’s been weeping for years and I had the parts already lol. Glad I didn’t, my fluid did not look nice. Been a few years and I’m honestly surprised at the condition. It’s like water got in. Or maybe the truck sat for a long time and this is all from me finally using it again. Either way it got a fluid change and hoping no extra wear in there.
Don’t worry I did actually seat it all the way
Once that was wrapped up I got the belly skid all installed! Really happy with it, and looking forward to putting it to use !
It’s been so busy I don’t even finish all the pictures of slider fitment lol. They got up great! Really happy with the turn out.
Next up was FINALLY pulling the rear diff to get the locker installed. I’ve been sitting on a new ARB for like a year haha. I originally was goi to do 3:1 t case gears, but low range in 3rd gear on fire roads is really nice and I didn’t want to lose that. So I decided the diffs were getting regeared. After calculations I went with 4.56 as it brings my rpm back to almost exactly factory with 35s. So ARB and Yukon gears for the rear it was!
ECGS sent me the wrong shims… I ordered only a piñon kit and solid spacer, the bearings I ordered from partsouq
Had to make a wrench to get me better leverage than the one I had for carrier preload
but it worked! Solid spacer, 4.56, arb locker, ready for some trails!
Next project was a tool cart. My organization was struggling and it was hurting my work. I was also waiting for an other side job so I could afford some front gears! But right after the cart was built I got a call for diff rebuild job that helped me get enough for a cruiser outfitters order!
Yellow was not my fave, but it was 50$ less than the other colors!
I had to change the label lol it’s so cool!
More bearings and gears! I was happy to be on the road to 4wd optional again
Feels like I was just doing this knuckle work… but that’s ok, should have planned ahead ha. The front is also getting a solid spacer, but I also made another plan…. My first front locker ever!
I would have loved an ARB, but I didn’t have 1k to swing on something fun, but I don’t.
I did find a TJM locker for an 8.2 diff. So the gears started turning. Becuase it was 270 shipped to my door
. I also like the actuation method of TJM, so that’s a positive to me. After checking all data I could, I determined that the ring gear location was about 1mm offset in an 8.2 vs my 8” (no problem) and it’s the same ID, but 12 holes instead of 10. So I tig’d up a few of the holes (we are talking about shear action for these bolts so I don’t need them all done) with preheat and nickel, and then had them redrilled with template I made and counter bored. I really need to get a mill so I can do this myself, but I still came up for half the cost of an ARB and it was a fun project.
Even the actuator mounting plate is the exact shape to fit perfectly lol. VERY happy with the end result, everything lined up great and had a good pattern. Since I’m part time 4wd I’m less worried about something like this, but I really do feel good about the end result and its overall strength!
I did use an ARB bulk head fitting, it is much nicer to me than a barb and rubber hose…
Last steps were adding the solenoid to the ARB solenoid (fits perfect) and adding the breather line. The solenoid did get sticky on my (wouldn’t disengage for a few min) so I disassembled and greased it and it’s working great. We had a huge snow storm and I took it out to try out double lock and everything was perfect!
I also bought some dot braided lines for a Nissan 280sx on Amazon so I could stop having to bleed my brakes everytime I need to get into the hub. Super annoying brake line design. I’m working on manual hub conversion so I’ll need this soon lol.
I was also able to get a roof rack installed (front runner low profile) which I LOVE. It ads so much more utility! I relocated my GMRS and HAM antenna from my hood to the rack, and I mounted my GMRS to the side of the glove box and put an RJ45 outlet on the dash so I have less things randomly attached everywhere ha.
Last thing was finally changing out my other door hinges, and this pretty much gets things up to date here! Love the truck, it’s a totally different animal now, and super useful
Daaaamn! Solid and strong build thread update!
Daaaamn! Solid and strong build thread update!
Thank you!!
