First FJ60 Build - 1983 Land Crusier

[ashack2004]

Awesome thanks for the info, when I installed the ARB on my dads it was very easy. Had some fun trying to install the smitybuilt winch but other than that very easy.

Battery Box:
My buddy joey and I was able to build a new battery box for the FJ today.
It is made out of Electric box hangers I think. All I know is once I cut them down to the right size and drilled the holes for the bolts it worked out awesome.

Here is some pics!

 

[ashack2004]

More Pics

 

[ashack2004]

Once all the welding was done, I decided to spray some Easy wood Rubberized coating on it. Wish I could installed today but this stuff takes 24hrs to DRY!!!

 

[ashack2004]

When I was at joey's, I was able to pull up on a lil dirt hill to take some pics!

 

[ashack2004]

I was able to get the battery box installed and it works great!

Thank you Joey for all the help!!!
Thank you Wayne for the Eastwood and new battery terminals!

 

[ashack2004]

I have questions for everyone. My alternator seems to only output about 13.6 volts to the battery at idle. Which should be good. But when I load the alternator by turning on brights, turn signal, blower motor it will drop to 12.5 volts which does not seems to be charging the batter as if the alternator is over loaded. I was wondering what is the best way to trouble shoot this issue.

1. Is there something in the wiring besides it being over 30 years old that could cause this?
2. Could I run a wire from the alt to the battery? Would this help?

I cleaned my grounds, put on new battery terminals and made sure my battery is fully charged. I have two alternators and both are doing the same thing.

I had the alternators checked and they are fine.

From here the only thing I can tell is that there is something in the wiring or something else going on that I can no pin point.

One thing I notice, which is the biggest voltage drop is when I put on the turn signals. The volt meter on the dash will bounce between 12 and 16 almost staying at 12.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[gregnash]

Mine does the exact same thing with my new reman'd Toyota Alt and VR. From what I can tell the load caused by the lights with the less than optimal wiring harness is causing the severe voltage drop. I have one of the upgrade harnesses from SLCFJ62 that I have yet to put on but that is supposed to help.

Concensus is that stock harness for lights is anemic at best and bleeds off quite a bit of voltage.

 

[ashack2004]

Gregnash, thank you for the reply. I am going to run a wire from the Battery to the Alternator to see if this will help any. I am going going to check all the connectors and make sure nothing is dirty or corroded.

I was also able to adjust my timming last night and now it is not missing at idle and is starting a lot better

I will keep you posted on this.

I also have another question.

What is the hole used for?

 

[gregnash]

No prob dude.. good little investment is to get a tube of dyelectric grease and grease your connections. This will help the connectivity and keep them cleaner.

Talk with fourruner as he makes and upgrade battery/ground cable kit for the 60s and I know he has said something about adding an independent alt connection as well. Here is his f/s thread on the cable kit.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I also have another question.

What is the hole used for?

It's used for the adjustable radiator blinds that came on cold market diesel Land Cruisers. They can be closed when it's super cold to make sure the motor stays at an optimal temp when driving down the road. The blinds simply restrict air flow to the radiator.

Diesels run cooler than gassers, so it's not necessary for a 2F, where it might be for a 3B, 2H or 12H-T.

Ever see diesel trucks with those bibs on the front grill when it gets cold out? Same concept.

 

[gregnash]

It's used for the adjustable radiator blinds that came on cold market diesel Land Cruisers. They can be closed when it's super cold to make sure the motor stays at an optimal temp when driving down the road. The blinds simply restrict air flow to the radiator.

Diesels run cooler than gassers, so it's not necessary for a 2F, where it might be for a 3B, 2H or 12H-T.

Ever see diesel trucks with those bibs on the front grill when it gets cold out? Same concept.

See i thought it was part of the 3rd world poverty package where they may not have a working starter so they could "hand crank" it to start like days of old.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

See i thought it was part of the 3rd world poverty package where they may not have a working starter so they could "hand crank" it to start like days of old.

Nope. That hole doesn't line up with the crank, not even close. I thought it was for a crank at first too. I found an image somewhere that showed how the blinds worked, but I can't find it now.

What's weird is that my 87 2F has the crank nut for a hand starter, with two protruding teeth, but there's no hole in the front crossmember for such a tool.

Cruiser trivia!

 

[ashack2004]

GLTHFJ60, thank for the information thats awesome!

Gregnash, third world package!!!! Too Funny....lol

 

[ashack2004]

Cirena and the 60

 

[ashack2004]

Was able to drive out to the beach with Cirena and my buddy Ryan, he owns the jeep you always see in my pictures.

 

[ashack2004]

I don't know if I said anything but I finally ordered my ARB front bumper and winch, which have arrived.

With the help from my dad and my buddy Wayne we started on the install to find out that there was an issue.

The lift kit I installed used the shackle reversal kit which I had to take back off to install the bumper brackets.

























My bought me some awesome rigid LED lights for the bumper. Will finish up the wiring today.

 

[MicahMan]

Nice work. I love the Clean lines of the ARB bumpers!

 

[Ridge Runner]

It's used for the adjustable radiator blinds that came on cold market diesel Land Cruisers. They can be closed when it's super cold to make sure the motor stays at an optimal temp when driving down the road. The blinds simply restrict air flow to the radiator.

Diesels run cooler than gassers, so it's not necessary for a 2F, where it might be for a 3B, 2H or 12H-T.

Ever see diesel trucks with those bibs on the front grill when it gets cold out? Same concept.

Thank you! I asked that question when I got mine and couldn't get a plausible answer. Even if it did line up with the crank, there would still be too many things in the way, so I knew it wasn't for hand cranking.

 

[PresaMax]

Beautiful 60. I'm Thinking About Putting On An LED Light Bar On My 60. Let Us Know What You Think Of Your Rigid LEDS.

 

[ashack2004]

Thanks Presa, yea I have not been able to try them out on the trails let but so far they are awesome. They come with all the wires you need and the switch. They only thing is the wires for the lights are not long enough to go from the dash to the battery and also to the bumper. My buddy Wayne who is awesome at wiring was able to solder and extend the wires so everything would work. Turned out great. Depending on where you mount them you could have issues with the length of the wires. I also really like the fact that the connectors that go to the lights are sealed just like some of the GM connectors.