Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

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Output Shaft makes a lot if sense. I've decided not to even figure out if I need a new head gasket, new head, or new block. Since I've decided SOMETHING else is going to happen! Now to stop changing my mind and just go with a plan already.
 
LOL @Hillhippy yeah I know that feeling. I was convinced that I was only ever going to do a junkyard pull myself for a TBI 350 and mate that to my 4spd for now. After tons of research I found that you could find a 4.8l VORTEC for only a few hundred more than the TBI. Then to saying screw the 4.8l I'm going for a few hundred extra over that at going 5.3l. So I know the mental dilemma very well.
 
Depending on how long I want to wait, which at some points my patience is short, will really determine between a TBI system vs. a VORTEC/Gen III engine. I can pretty easily grab a TBI 350 for less than $700 for a decent engine then mate that to a newer 4L60, which is a point of distress in and of its own, and then should the TBI ever die I would have the ability to relatively easily do a more modernized swap.

I only paid $1000 for the 5.3l Vortec and that included shipping.

Just sayin'

-Ed
 
Yeah I have been watching ebay to see what comes up because I know that is where you said you got yours Ed (@cruiser enthuiser). There are a couple that are right around $1k but with shipping or if they are below $1k the have close to 200k on them. Locally I have a truck that has engine and tranny still attached (confirming) that is a 94 TBI 5.7 with 130k on it and good compression (according to them) for $675 for the engine. If I did that and bought a used/reman'd 4l60E from somewhere then I would be into the engine/tranny for a little over a grand. That's kind of a hard deal to beat if everything is true about the engine. And since it is local I would rather take that chance giving me the ability to go after them locally if something bad where to happen and they lied or whatever.
 
When I bought mine I called the seller - a big wrecker in Michigan (or was it Minnesota?) - to ask some questions. Also asked if they were flexible on price. Without blinking the guy dropped the price $200 and when I hesitated he threw in the shipping.

I was pretty reluctant to buy sight unseen (and the motor hasn't been perfect) but it was so much cheaper than anything I had seen locally I took the chance especially since it was low miles at only 79k. There was some pucker factor for sure but it has worked out well.

FYI, my reman'd 4l60e was $1k and I shopped around a long time. Earlier model years can probably be found for less.
 
Yeah when the time comes and I have the money for the engine that will really be the determining factor. Really would like to keep it with a newer model 5.3L but know that may not be possible...

Ed (@cruiser enthuiser) I still need to take you out for a coffee/beer and see your truck. LOL Any plans tomorrow? Gonna be up in Reno in the morning to drop springs off at John's to have them flattened a bit and then do a couple other errands.
 
Also, in the mean time I am planning on buying a mechanical oil pressure gauge since mine is pretty much toast and replacements are now NLA (confirmed from @beno)!! Think a lot of guys go with mechanical to supplement the stock gauge on their engine swaps just wondering what is a good, relatively cheap gauge. Was looking for something on Amazon and looks like the Sunpro and Equus get good ratings and are not expensive at all (tubing kit costs as much as the gauge).

Any other recommendations for aftermarket gauge that will go under the dash near the shifter?
 
Also, in the mean time I am planning on buying a mechanical oil pressure gauge since mine is pretty much toast and replacements are now NLA (confirmed from @beno)!! Think a lot of guys go with mechanical to supplement the stock gauge on their engine swaps just wondering what is a good, relatively cheap gauge. Was looking for something on Amazon and looks like the Sunpro and Equus get good ratings and are not expensive at all (tubing kit costs as much as the gauge).

Any other recommendations for aftermarket gauge that will go under the dash near the shifter?


The gauge in the dash is discontinued. ;)

The sender at the engine is still available. :)
 
Yeah when the time comes and I have the money for the engine that will really be the determining factor. Really would like to keep it with a newer model 5.3L but know that may not be possible...

Ed (@cruiser enthuiser) I still need to take you out for a coffee/beer and see your truck. LOL Any plans tomorrow? Gonna be up in Reno in the morning to drop springs off at John's to have them flattened a bit and then do a couple other errands.

Typically can't get away during the day - pesky job and all. And normally would be free Thursday evenings but tonight I'm going to a function with the wife.

Let me know next time you're going to be in town though - we'll hook up soon for sure.
 
Ah no worries Ed.... Figured it was a long shot but thought I might check to see. We are up there pretty much every weekend for different errands, getting time apart from the wife and errand schedule is the hard part.

On another note, I put in my order today with Onur to get the 62 Oil Pressure gauge. Said it would ship out on Saturday so should be here sometime next week. Still plan on putting in the mechanical gauge to go along with the idiot light (gauge) just have to take a look at routing and what not. Also if I plan on tapping into one of the bolts for the oil cooler then I will probably need to replace the crush washers along with the hoses and a few other odds and ends. Of course this is more money that I am throwing at an engine that I will eventually replace.
 
Got a new toy today in the mail. Of course doing other things so gotta wait till tomorrow.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1444098382.508987.jpg

This is a 62 oil pressure gauge which is a direct drop in as the 60 gauge is NLA.
 
Notice that the notches are different between the 60/62 gauges.

Will be different.

The 62 gauge will look different than the 60 gauge when it's installed into the meter.
 
Got the new gauge in today and seems to be working normally.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1444162271.179686.jpg

Comparison with old 60 gauge on left.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1444162295.985319.jpg

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1444162306.611896.jpg
 
Finally FINALLY got the time to replace the rear springs after having them re-arched to the proper size..
For note: (I have found that below are the stock spring eye to eye lengths)
Front = 1058mm (FJ60 only)
Rear = 1160mm (FJ60 only)

Anyways, pics are pretty descriptive in there own..
All items replaced are....
- Man-a-Fre u-bolts (stock size)
- Man-a-Fre greaseable spring pins
- Man-a-Fre greaseable shackles (stock length)
- Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings
- OEM Springs with AAL re-arched with 3/4" increase

Here are before and after pics of new suspension stuff...
Before
IMG_2756 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

After
IMG_2774 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
 
............Tell the wife to call me........I'll get those sliders in the works for you............:lol::lol:

J

View attachment 1158703

LOL today was first time she had ridden in BeBe in a while let alone with the new REAR springs. Of course after the second store she says "You do realize this is now HARDER for me to get in and out of right?" I told her... "You have known all along I was going to lift it SOME. This will settle after a while and plus its only about 2" from where it was...."
Her response..."Yeah that still doesn't mean it is going to be any easier for me to get into/out-of"
My response... "Well I guess I will just have to get some sliders for you to be able to step on to get in...."
Her response... "........"
 

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