Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (4 Viewers)

[gregnash]

Well ended up just buying a damn seal puller and was literally 20 seconds of work. Got the new hub/rotor all done and they even packed the bearings for me for the price of $45. So that is press out all the old stuff then new lugs pressed into rotor and hub pressed on then wheel bearing and race packed and pressed in. Gotta love that!

Now I have a question. I don't remember pulling two small seals from the system (one being the inner axle seal) but in my kit from Georg I have the marlins and another that looks like the stock one? Did I forget something? Or did Georg forget to take the stock ones out of the kit.

And don't know why the app posted it upside down?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Looks like he left the stock seal in the "kit" and added the Marlin seal to the order..

J

 

[gregnash]

Ok thanks J... that is what I thought... Marlins going in and georg will get a package.

Confirmed via text with Georg that he accidentally left the stock inner seals in there.

 

[gregnash]

Ok getting things back together. Does this look like it is all the way in? I am not quite sure but feel like it may be. Doesn't want to go any further in.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Looks right to me G. The birf should have full range of motion in the installed position IIRC..

J

 

[gregnash]

Actually it wasn't in far enough.. when I tried to mount the spindle it was like 2" away from being able to mount.. turned the pinion while pushing in and it finally slid the rest of the way in.

Almost completely back together but I made the mistake of partially taking the hub apart and cant get the damn c-clip that holds the piece that engages the hub back on. Sliced up my fingers after messing with it for an hour + and my snap ring pliers dont open quite wide enough to get the clip completely on. So tomorrow it will be to the parts store again to find some bigger snap ring pliers with flat tips, not pointed ones. Might just say screw it and grab some replacement c-clips that have the holes in the end to make it easier on me.

 

[TallCanDan]

Actually it wasn't in far enough.. when I tried to mount the spindle it was like 2" away from being able to mount.. turned the pinion while pushing in and it finally slid the rest of the way in.

Almost completely back together but I made the mistake of partially taking the hub apart and cant get the damn c-clip that holds the piece that engages the hub back on. Sliced up my fingers after messing with it for an hour + and my snap ring pliers dont open quite wide enough to get the clip completely on. So tomorrow it will be to the parts store again to find some bigger snap ring pliers with flat tips, not pointed ones. Might just say screw it and grab some replacement c-clips that have the holes in the end to make it easier on me.

Greg, go to Napa, get their "Lockring Pliers." That's what we have is a Lockring and not a snap ring. They have the flat spots at the tip, and are knurled to grip the Lockring. Super easy once you have those pliers! Wish I was there with ya bro!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

X2 ^^ Danny.. I tried to use a set of cheap snap ring pliers on my first rebuild and cussed all the way to the auto supply and back and then a few more hours afterwards for not having the right tool for the job..

Sounds like you were off on the spline/not in the GROOVE so to speak... I remember that happening to me and thought I was bottomed, I remember the birf not having full range.

J

 

[gregnash]

Well that was just dumb..... Love that NAPA is open so early, ran down there after taking the dogs to the park, grabbed a $20 pair of lock ring pliers, 10 minutes more of fighting and cussing and it is on. Dear lord, that was just too easy, and will just start buying the right tool when I need it, seriously would have saved me probably 3hrs all together on all of this.

Grease for the hub, do I use wheelbearing grease or the same grease that I was packing the birfleid and knuckle with? The manual says MP Grease.

 

[gregnash]

Well got the passenger side completely done and put back together last night. Looks great all tidyd up and nice to have 6 functioning lugs again. This was perfect because the passenger side was the side that was leaking the most.

But went to start on the other side and one of the hub bolts that holds the face on is rounded off. Any suggestions on getting it out? I dont have an impact wrench so would it be easier to use a dremel and slot the head? And anyone know if these are still available or what to replace with from Lowes/HomeDepot/whatever?

 

[TallCanDan]

I'd say the dremel would work with a steady hand, or maybe try tapping a different size socket on the rounded bolt head? You probably are aware of the options should you have to go out and buy an extraction tool.
If you have the time, I can drop some hub dial bolts in the mail for ya tomorrow first thing. I have more than a few.

 

[gregnash]

That would be awesome Dan!!! Yeah the drivers side is not leaking so I am not that worried about it at this point in time, though I would like to get it done sooner than later just because I have the new rotor and lugs waiting. Really want to do this without having to purchase and extraction tool but if worse comes to worse I will.

 

[Slow Left]

Home Depot carries these (see pic below) - they dig into rounded heads. Don't think the sell them in metric, but I use them anyway on metric bolts for the muffler system. If you remove one of the good hub bolts and bring it with you to Home Depot, you can check and see if one of the sockets in the set will fit.

 

[gregnash]

interesting.. thanks for the suggestion SL

 

[TallCanDan]

Have you tried a sharp chisel and hammer? Tap a good groove/ gouge with part of the chisel in the counter clockwise direction. If the bolt doesn't pop while setting the chisel, once you have a good groove in the bolt head give the chisel a good smack. Warning! Be careful you don't gouge anything that's staying on the rig! I have removed plenty of hinge screws from door hinges with a 1" wide wood chisel and not touch the hinge.
Four bolts enough? I have to double check I have your address...

 

[gregnash]

Yeah that would be more than enough bolts. I have the one that is rounded and I think one other that did not want to "easily" come loose. All the others were ready to come off with a couple whacks on the ratchet handle with a deadblow.

 

[gregnash]

I am sure you guys have seen my other thread but last week on my way home from softball while on the freeway I suddenly had all my interior lights dim, brighten, then dim again along with my headlights. Suddenly everything started flickering and my stereo started going on and off. Of course, I started praying thinking my truck was possessed by the devil (flickering lights in a haunted house are a sure sign to GTFO!!!).

I ended up making it home and subsequently found that one of the fusible link wires was arcing and eventually broke completely off. However, this caused a massive melt in connectors on the one wire. Great, well Mr. T still supplies the Fusible link so I hit up Beno for the part and it was here Wednesday this week. However, the connector between the fusible link and the + battery cable was fried as well so I started hunting for a new one. This part is not an independent part but rather part of the original +battery cable so it is NLA. I ended finally finding one from SOR and had them ship out.

This then lead to me FINALLY getting around to installing most of @Fourrunner's battery cable kit. All I can say is HOLY BEEFY BATMAN!!! These cables are stout compared to the puny stock cables. (I will take pics later).

So last night I finally got her together, cleaned up all the remaining wires from my old, dead cruise control and she fired right up!!! So stoked and happy this morning to drive her again but I do definitely love riding my bike. However, apparently I either killed my stereo at some point or I have severed the power cable as it is getting nothing (yes it is plugged in) so I will have to see what is going on with that tonight. This may force me to actually get around to installing @slcfj62's ultimate harness kit now!! LOL

Wife is leaving for NYC in a couple weeks and I have furlough time I HAVE to take before the end of the month so looks like I may be able to hit the drivers side knuckle while she is gone!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I am sure you guys have seen my other thread but last week on my way home from softball while on the freeway I suddenly had all my interior lights dim, brighten, then dim again along with my headlights. Suddenly everything started flickering and my stereo started going on and off. Of course, I started praying thinking my truck was possessed by the devil (flickering lights in a haunted house are a sure sign to GTFO!!!).

I ended up making it home and subsequently found that one of the fusible link wires was arcing and eventually broke completely off. However, this caused a massive melt in connectors on the one wire. Great, well Mr. T still supplies the Fusible link so I hit up Beno for the part and it was here Wednesday this week. However, the connector between the fusible link and the + battery cable was fried as well so I started hunting for a new one. This part is not an independent part but rather part of the original +battery cable so it is NLA. I ended finally finding one from SOR and had them ship out.

This then lead to me FINALLY getting around to installing most of @Fourrunner's battery cable kit. All I can say is HOLY BEEFY BATMAN!!! These cables are stout compared to the puny stock cables. (I will take pics later).

So last night I finally got her together, cleaned up all the remaining wires from my old, dead cruise control and she fired right up!!! So stoked and happy this morning to drive her again but I do definitely love riding my bike. However, apparently I either killed my stereo at some point or I have severed the power cable as it is getting nothing (yes it is plugged in) so I will have to see what is going on with that tonight. This may force me to actually get around to installing @slcfj62's ultimate harness kit now!! LOL

Wife is leaving for NYC in a couple weeks and I have furlough time I HAVE to take before the end of the month so looks like I may be able to hit the drivers side knuckle while she is gone!

I hate electrical gremlins.. (you know where my rig is on that note..) glad you got all the parts in and on.. You should now have all the tools for the other knuckle work.. It'll be good to have that out of the way. Second one goes much faster BTW..

J

 

[gregnash]

LOL.. thanks J, I am sure that the second one will go much quicker than the first.

As for the electrical gremlins, the truck runs fine now with @Fourrunner's cable kit installed and while I was getting all this figured out I went and cut out all the extra crap from the old cruise control system. Well after tinkering some more today, apparently there was a 12v hot feed in that somewhere (the ones that I left apparently were not it somehow even though the line is directly connected to the hot wire from when I installed the stereo which really confused me) but I cut it out or killed it somehow. So since there is no "stock" 12v that I can seem to find (the original stock plug still remains) I am going to have to buck up and get to installing my kit Ultimate harness from SLCFJ62.

So that leads to a dumb question, I cannot seem to find a wire plug on the firewall on the passenger side that would allow for easier routing of such power wires to the Ultimate harness. Am I missing something somewhere or am I going to have to buy 30' of black and yellow wire to run it through the dash to the plug on the drivers side and then across the top of the firewall to the passenger side?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

G, I run most of my wires through an existing grommet in the FW. If you don't want to share or the wires are too big, go to NAPA (etc..) get a FW grommet suitable for the wires and drill a new hole with a step bit.
Hope that helps.

J