finally getting there....

[jfz80]

So i figured before this winter hits i better finish last winters project. Last december the 1F went out on the pig at URE and it sat idle for about 6 mos untill i picked up a 79 2f with blown HG from Flinny in Durham. I took it all the way down and had it cleaned, new cam bearings pressed in, all new freeze plugs and the head rebuilt. Never trust a machinist named "lightning" to be fast

Finally got it back and started assembling w/ new bearings and rings, reused the pistons, cam,crank as all were within spec. I realize now that building a 2F on a budget is kinda a joke. So many more things i wanted like the one piece cam gear and such but as it sits its way pertier and may just be worth as much as the host. IF only one of you told me that first

Toyota HG and Timing plate gasket, Felpro for the rest

Not an easy job solo in the driveway but these are the times that will make me appreciate my garage that much more right???

Im waiting on some 3FE manifolds from $out and then im ready to button it up. Prime the pump mount my pressure guage and i think its bout time to see if shell fire up.

Suggestions always welcome of course. Only issue im expecting so far is an interference w/ PS lines and the ex. manifold; i think shorter lines will solve it though. And ive read the 1F carb will be fine on the 2f; i rebuilt it last fall and it was spot on with the jets and runs great.


before..........

 

[jfz80]

and after; behold the not so big or that gay 2F

 

[jfz80]

dont forget the fun part.....

 

[Southeast Overland]

BRODIE BROWN SAYS IT AIN'T EASY BEING FOUR SHADES OF BROWN!

Nice work on the 2F!

 

[BELMONT148]

Great job, congratulations on the new heart.

You got a spare 4 speed Clutch Fork and a 4 speed PTO gear left over from that swap? In desperate need so I can get my truck running and move it closer to you guys in the Upstate.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[jfz80]

Sorry Jeremy, no left overs or they'd be yours.

I bout soiled my shorts when i saw your motor go up for sale. If i werent as far along as i was i'd been heading your way. I got that in it for sure and its still not the post 85 you can run the 3f heads on.

Oh well, i just hope she runs well. The thing that scares me the most is I did all this

might pm mdemeglio to see if hes got any clutch parts

 

[Carp]

Sweet! Can't wait to hear that thing run.

 

[jfz80]

you and me both.... the 3fe manifolds were my point to splurge on and will get a new exhaust too.


Has to sound better than before !!!!

 

[Trollhole]

Where is your oil cooler? Can't tell from the pic if you have a water pump that has the oil cooler line ported or not.

You took the distributor mount off. Make sure you get it back lined up or it could eat your cam could eat your dizzy. Bolts will also leak if they are not sealed well.

I might be wrong but you might want to check and see if that fan clutch setup is going to fit with the 55 radiator. I think they might try and share the same space.

Glad to see your using the 60 motor mount for the AC setup. Good idea if you ever want to add A/C.

Looks good. You will be fine with that carb. If you ever want something new you know where to get one.

Glad to see your going the 3fe manifold route. Not many people know about that one.

I like the color. Steenh will love the color. Go Dawgs!

Will be good to see the beast back on the road.

If you need anything give me a hollar.

 

[Trollhole]

Okay a few more questions. I love puzzles.

Cannot be a 79.

It doesn't have an oil cooler that started in 77 and went throughout the rest of the 2f's production
It has the press on oil fill cap, ended in 78 and went to the screw on cap in 79
It doesn't have the power steering pump mounting holes in the head. Started in 79.

Cannot see the pistons. Are they domed?

If so then you have 75-76 2f.

What does the serial number beside the dizzy say?

 

[jfz80]

its all just a giant puzzle .... with heavy pieces.

OK dont look at the pic of the motor in the trailer, just realized that is the 77 i was going to use. Ended up parting ways with it and bought the 79; i just didnt have any before shots. All other pics are accurate. Marshall, your too good to pull that over on obviously

The oil cooler must be the finned box on the driver side lower half of block. Was not on the block when i picked it up so i guess i need one of those. It was however on the 77 i sold ...doh.

alum valve cover w/ screw on cap pistons are domed

serial number 2F 164853

any hints on lining up the dizzy mount? it came off when removing the distributor. I havent looked yet so it may explain itself, like split at the bottom and clamp parallel to block.

I think your right about the fan clutch. Im trying to remember how the 1F was set up. I think it was just a spacer off the pulley, no clutch. The PO had it wrong at some point, there is no shroud and came w/ multiple chewed up fans and a rad. when i got it.

like puzzles? then you should be able to figure out which of these gaskets i have left over after its buttoned up I know the water pump gasket but the other 3 im not sure about :whoops:

I think one is for the dizzy (cork/paper) and the round rubber one im not sure about. Probably just the crank seal Sure would be nice if gasket sets came labeled.

these pics help on the water pump to tell if its ported? i might have grabbed the 77 water pump b/c it was cleaner, made sure to get the later thermostat housing as it has a threaded port and the earlier ones did not.

 

[Southeast Overland]

My rebuilt 2F was an 83 that I dropped into my Pig. I used a water pump without a fan clutch to clear the radiator...want pics? ACC ordered the pump for me.

 

[Trollhole]

its all just a giant puzzle .... with heavy pieces.

OK dont look at the pic of the motor in the trailer, just realized that is the 77 i was going to use. Ended up parting ways with it and bought the 79; i just didnt have any before shots. All other pics are accurate. Marshall, your too good to pull that over on obviously



You sure about that cause I've got some real irony in store for you.


The oil cooler must be the finned box on the driver side lower half of block. Was not on the block when i picked it up so i guess i need one of those. It was however on the 77 i sold ...doh. No drivers side finned box is what I refer to as the nuclear reactor. It was part of the emissions system and a big pile of crap. That rusted out, leaked and seized the bolts holding it to the engine. Which when upon removing could crak the mounting ears off the block. Like yours is.

Oil cooler is an intergral part that has the oil filter cast as part of it. It sits below the dizzy.

alum valve cover w/ screw on cap pistons are domed Ironically that is the only thing that is 79 on that motor the valve cover.

serial number 2F 164853 As suspected you have a 77 2f in fact you have a 77 2f that was made in May of that year. So basically this motor is the same as the other 2f you sold.


any hints on lining up the dizzy mount? it came off when removing the distributor. I havent looked yet so it may explain itself, like split at the bottom and clamp parallel to block. Not talking about the dizzy bracket that sits on top of the block. If you look below the dizzy hole in the block you will see the end of two bolts sticking out. Behind these two bolts on the inside of the block is the block that helps hold the dizzy in alignment. It needs to be straight. AT this point I wouldn't worry about it.

I think your right about the fan clutch. Im trying to remember how the 1F was set up. I think it was just a spacer off the pulley, no clutch. The PO had it wrong at some point, there is no shroud and came w/ multiple chewed up fans and a rad. when i got it. Would be better to test fit the radiator and see now then wait and find out after everything else is in. I'd say you need a min of an inch.

like puzzles? then you should be able to figure out which of these gaskets i have left over after its buttoned up I know the water pump gasket but the other 3 im not sure about :whoops:

Top left- thermostat housing gasket. Between the two halves.
Top right- gasket that goes between the metal plate on the back of the water pump and the cast aluminum housing. Don't even mess with replacing that gasket.

Bottom left Seal that goes on top of the thermostat. Don't leave it out. If you do the thremostat won't seal correctly.
Bottom right no clue.
I think one is for the dizzy (cork/paper) and the round rubber one im not sure about. Probably just the crank seal Sure would be nice if gasket sets came labeled.

these pics help on the water pump to tell if its ported? i might have grabbed the 77 water pump b/c it was cleaner, made sure to get the later thermostat housing as it has a threaded port and the earlier ones did not.

It's not ported and since you don't have an oil cooler anyway it's not needed. Water pump will be just fine for what you have.

So when are you going to crank it up?

 

[$out]

shipped the manifolds on tues. jason.....

 

[jfz80]

whoo hoo and they showed up w/ a BANG. USPS truck got slammed as he stopped to drop them off by the three trailing cars. So from 3:30 to 6 there was no leaving the house yesterday. Gotta love livin on the highway. I need to source one flange and ill be ready to rock.

 

[jfz80]

little bit closer .... but still a strong contender for slowest wrench of 09 award.

Thanks to marshall I have in my possession the elusive 75 water pump pulley. Thanks again dude

Now just need a day of weather and work cooperating. I have an early metal fan but would like to replace it with the stock plastic one.

 

[jfz80]

still working but getting closer

Ha Ha..... i gotta laugh as I read through this thread and count the times I've said "almost there" "just need this" "ok need that too" etc etc.

So there were quite a few differences b/w the F and 2F I had not read about. Plus, I believe one of the PO's got "non traditional" with the heater hose routing. Thanks to Jon I got the plumbing figured out, now its time for the electrical..

Im missing my folder of pics of pre tear down. Again Jon helped me with the vacuum lines, plus deleting the smog equip. Now im trying to remember what order the wiring went b/w the battery, starter, coil, alt, and dizzy. Plus the fun part is ive changed coils to one that I believe has a resistor (dont take my terminoligy there to serious ) I had previously converted the stock alt to a GM ambulance unit and at the time gone to the one wire setup.

I got some searching and reading to do before being confident about dropping the dizzy in right anyways but if you have any tips to the wiring or dizzy setup (links too) I'd appreciate it.

enjoy
Attached Images

 

[jfz80]

This is the best shot I got but let me know if another would help.

So from the schematics it looks like this is how it would go.

Direct power from battery to starter.
The wiring harness comes from fire wall and splits out to go to the starter (ignition circuit i believe)
off the piggy back can on starter there are two terminals.

+Looking at my old coil, it seems the dead end wire in pic (yellow) goes to the positive terminal on coil.
+I think the other terminal lead goes to the resistor clamped onto the coil as shown?
+On the negative terminal on the coil, does the one wire lead to the terminal on the distributor as shown?
+then lastly I believe another wire runs from the negative on coil, to the carb selenoid?

what you guys think?

 

[jfz80]

the elusive 75 deep dish pulley and associated blades of death

Thanks again Marshall

 

[Trollhole]

Looks good. You need to check the voltage on those two wires. One will have a constant 12v with ignition switch on. The other will only have 12 while the starter is turning. That wire will go straight to the coil. This way you get a full 12v when starting. You don't need a full 12v when the engine is running otherwise you will burn out your points quicker.

Speaking of points. That looks like a vacuum retard dizzy. If so it's a piece of crap. You need to find a Vac advance dizzy. Though it looks like your carb isn't ported for vac advance.


You should have a 12v ignition switched wire that comes out of the firewall and goes to your carbs idle solenoid. Don't use any 12v source coming from the coil. Not a good idea.