Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks. Great combo, the S and a 40...
Fiberglass Fan Shroud
- Thread starter Rockets2000
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Looking good mate. Glad I could inspire you to have a go.
Should look sweet when it's finished!
Should look sweet when it's finished!
PVA can be used to make bags (or even polyethylene for that matte... Although, polyethylene dosen't soften and stretch when you wet it with water). You can then put your fiberglass layup inside the bag, and then use a vacuum source to draw the resin through the layup. The end result can be a void free, fiberglass Lamination that isn't exposed to the air, and sets up 100%. You can use a piece of rope or string to work the resin through the layers. I've worked mostly with semi rigid acrylic resin with fiberglass, Dacron, and Carbon fiber layups. I recomend using Fiberglass over Carbon fiber because it is safer to work with, less hazardous, and the end result has more flex and give. I'd recomend a layup of a couple of thin layers of fiberglass, a layer of Dacron felt(or two), and then two more layers of fiberglass for maximum strength, and no excess weight.
Type in "Prosthetic Lamination" into YouTube, and you'll see how it's done... It's a specialized art, but I've even seen custom race bikes done this way...
If a picture is worth 1000 words, how many are a video worth? The videos will make it much clearer than I ever can...
Very cool what you're doing, should work out well.
One last thought... A shop vac can be used as the vacuum source, if you don't happen to have a vacuum pump around.
Type in "Prosthetic Lamination" into YouTube, and you'll see how it's done... It's a specialized art, but I've even seen custom race bikes done this way...
If a picture is worth 1000 words, how many are a video worth? The videos will make it much clearer than I ever can...
Very cool what you're doing, should work out well.
One last thought... A shop vac can be used as the vacuum source, if you don't happen to have a vacuum pump around.
Last edited:
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #24
I totally agree that prosthetic lamination is a far superior method to my feeble exercise, but I am simply not prepared to start my fiberglassing experience with multiple materials and making bags. Maybe after I get my feet wet and want to play around with it. I'm just trying to make a functional air duct for now. Thanks for the tip though!PVA can be used to make bags (or even polyethylene for that matte... Although, polyethylene dosen't soften and stretch when you wet it with water). You can then put your fiberglass layup inside the bag, and then use a vacuum source to draw the resin through the layup. The end result can be a void free, fiberglass Lamination that isn't exposed to the air, and sets up 100%. You can use a piece of rope or string to work the resin through the layers. I've worked mostly with semi rigid acrylic resin with fiberglass, Dacron, and Carbon fiber layups. I recomend using Fiberglass over Carbon fiber because it is safer to work with, less hazardous, and the end result has more flex and give. I'd recomend a layup of a couple of thin layers of fiberglass, a layer of Dacron felt(or two), and then two more layers of fiberglass for maximum strength, and no excess weight.
Type in "Prosthetic Lamination" into YouTube, and you'll see how it's done... It's a specialized art, but I've even seen custom race bikes done this way...
If a picture is worth 1000 words, how many are a video worth? The videos will make it much clearer than I ever can...
Very cool what you're doing, should work out well.
One last thought... A shop vac can be used as the vacuum source, if you don't happen to have a vacuum pump around.
Air Removal
I was thinking a very simplified version... throw it in a large contractor garbage bag, and then used a shop vac to remove the excess air.
I was thinking a very simplified version... throw it in a large contractor garbage bag, and then used a shop vac to remove the excess air.
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #26
So how do you remove the bag from the set-up resin? You need some kind of release material or the sucked-down bag will stick to the work, right?
Fiberglass resin won't stick to PVA and most other plastics... you shouldn't need any release agent, however I'd do a small test before using it on your project.
In general, you'd need to scuff up plastic and drill holes through it to create a mechanical bond with fiberglass.
With the PVA used in prosthetics, no release agent is used. Depending on which side of the PVA is used, you end up with either a satin or high gloss on the finished surface.
Did a search and confirmed, "Due to the chemical properties of FG it doesn't stick to polyethylene...aka garbage bags".
From...http://www.jdmrides.ca/forum/learne...tricks-and-get-supplies-t92805.html?p=1348729
In general, you'd need to scuff up plastic and drill holes through it to create a mechanical bond with fiberglass.
With the PVA used in prosthetics, no release agent is used. Depending on which side of the PVA is used, you end up with either a satin or high gloss on the finished surface.
Did a search and confirmed, "Due to the chemical properties of FG it doesn't stick to polyethylene...aka garbage bags".
From...http://www.jdmrides.ca/forum/learne...tricks-and-get-supplies-t92805.html?p=1348729
Last edited:
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #28
Funny, it sticks to everything else....
That is worth a try. Maybe I'll fiddle with it this weekend if I get a chance. Thanks for the tip.
That is worth a try. Maybe I'll fiddle with it this weekend if I get a chance. Thanks for the tip.
Sounds god, let us know how it works out.
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #30
I finally got a complete layer of glass laid down over the weekend so I have something stable to work with for trimming and additional fiberglass. I got the fan disc cut out and the excess material on the sides trimmed up. It's starting to look like a fan shroud!
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #31
The initial fit check is good. I have a section of the fan arc to trim for additional clearance, but I'm very happy with the blade depth, plane, and fitment in general. The upper left half of the arc clears by about 3/8", while the lower right has almost an inch. I may have mis-marked it for the mold or maybe the plywood disc shifted while stretching the speaker cloth. Either way, once I get it evened up I'm sure it won't affect the cooling enough to worry about.
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #32
I finally finished the fan shroud and could not be happier! I ended up putting only two layers of polyester mat down - one on the inside and one on the outside of the spandex substrate. It is incredibly strong, like I think I could stand on it. Spray painted it black, installed, and tested it. I ran at 2500 rpm for 10 min in the garage with a max temp of 192F. Then I idled for 10 min and it went down to 180F. Ambient temp is about 70F. WOOHOO!!!!
I also built myself a little magnetized shelf for tools. It's not pretty, but it will catch an errant socket or screw before it gets shot out by the fan.
I also built myself a little magnetized shelf for tools. It's not pretty, but it will catch an errant socket or screw before it gets shot out by the fan.
I really like the way it turned out. I guess I've never thought about fiberglass much are the components easily sourced? If you don't mind what was a ball park figure for this project just so I can compare it to building it out of aluminium or something similar
This falls into the "Because God knows we have made everything else" category.
Great work.
Great work.
Rockets2000
Space Cadet
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks. I probably should have spent more time sanding it smooth with a nicer finish, but I figure it will just get dusty and muddy like everything else. You can source all of the materials at Lowe's or HD. I happen to live in an area where there are lots of boat shops and marinas, so I went to West Marine. It may be a little pricer, but I know I got high quality resin and material. I would say the whole thing cost me a little over $100 - maybe closer to $150 including all the little things like slotted stock, magnets, brushes, and sanding pads.
