Builds FerrisBueller's 2018 LC Build - "Moby" (4 Viewers)

[unclemat]

Re spare tire hoist position I think the relocation angles it more than stock position. This is going by the picture from Slee's rear aluminum rear bumper install manual (which I need yet to install). Which will complicate matters because Slee replaces stock hoist brakets with custom ones used to reinforce bumper mounting.

And eyeballing overall the lowering looks like 1" inch max in front and less in the rear. Not horrible.

 

[grinchy]

I had thrown my hoist out, and the one I traded for didn’t come with the side brackets. I made my own out of aluminum angle. You could probably do similar to work around whatever Slee did on the rear bumper.
Look at your frame and you can see the holes where the brackets will attach lower.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I just finished a 2,784 mile roundtrip, and the subtank and main tank had no problems filling up all the way at every gas station, regardless of how full or empty the gas tank was. I had been having this success for several weeks now, but didn't want to (finally) claim full victory until after I had tested it on this trip.

In my case, the final modification that fixed this the rest of the way is related to the main tank's fuel pump. When I had originally purchased all the parts to install the factory subtank, there were two fuel pumps to choose from that had the subtank siphon mechanism. The options were:

1. The pump that @grinchy had used (that is a drop-in replacement with a functioning port for the siphon tube), which was out of stock, or
2. A pump (also drop-in with the siphon port) that also included an extra vapor vent port that is used in some parts of the world that have different fuel vapor regulations, and this pump was in stock.

So naturally I had chosen option 2 since it was the only one in stock. Here's a photo of what the top of that pump looks like, with me pointing to the extra vapor vent that would be unused in my installation (and thus why I had capped it off in this photo).

Well, several weeks ago that allegedly fuel-rate rubber cap had deteriorated to the point that it cracked open and allows fuel to spray out (after only 2 years of use).

At that point I decided to remove the rubber cap and replace it with fuel hose that would vent back to one of the unused vent ports on the subtank. Before this happened, I had started to suspect that air gets trapped in various places in the main tank during fill-up, and that could cause sudden burps of air or uneven backpressure that causes it to click off prematurely when filling up.

Even before installing the subtank a few years ago, I would occasionally visit a gas station that for some reason would not be able to fill up my tank without clicking off constantly. Then, of course, after installing the subtank, it had become impossible for the main tank to fill up completely when it was starting out empty. Adding this hose from the pump's extra vent port to the subtank's extra vent port appears to have completely solved this problem. I suspect that air likely get trapped somewhere behind the various baffles the main tank has inside it.

 

[mobi-arc]

I had the same experience in my 100-series with respect to not being able to fill the tanks with fuel with trapped pressurized air. Fix was to loosen the gas-cap a little to allow air to escape. Was never an issue unless I was driving through Nevada/Utah in the summer. With high temperatures and blister-hot tarmac, the steel long range tank gets hot and creates more fuel vapor than the evap system was designed for.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I had the same experience in my 100-series with respect to not being able to fill the tanks with fuel with trapped pressurized air. Fix was to loosen the gas-cap a little to allow air to escape. Was never an issue unless I was driving through Nevada/Utah in the summer. With high temperatures and blister-hot tarmac, the steel long range tank gets hot and creates more fuel vapor than the evap system was designed for.

Yeah, it's interesting the vapor system's shortcomings over multiple generations of Land Cruiser. While I also get the vapor pressure buildup problem (i.e., "boiling fuel" problem), I think this trapped air makes that boiling fuel situation worse. I suspect that the trapped air is what ends up pushing fuel out of people's fuel caps; whereas if the trapped air could get back to the fill neck, then only air would hiss out of the cap (and no fuel).

I had this happen after my Broken Arrow run last week. We were clearly smelling fuel (from the vapor filter vent, not from the gas cap) right when we completed the trail. We immediately drove back from Sedona to Flagstaff without waiting for the tank to cool down. That drive is a huge altitude gain over incredibly hot asphalt. When we got to Flagstaff the gas cap was hissing loud and fast. No gas pouring out, though, like I've seen once or twice before. I can't rule out that gas spilling out won't happen again sometime, but it's never hissed this aggressively either, without dumping out fuel.

 

[mobi-arc]

My sense is it's an issue that's self induced: the evap system wasn't designed for an extra 40 gallons of fuel vapors. In markets where OEM aux tanks are fitted, the evap system accounts for that, but in the US market, the expectation is 20 gallons of fuel onboard and the charcoal cannister/evap system is scaled accordingly. I love the idea of adding an aux tank to my 2021 like my 1998, but there are tradeoffs to contend with.