Builds FerrisBueller's 2018 LC Build - "Moby" (1 Viewer)

[FerrisBueller]

I went back to the local gas station first thing in the morning, and sure enough that few minutes of driving was enough siphoning to get the main tank back to full. Topped off the subtank, which took another 9 gallons.

Got all the way to Muleshoe (more than 400 miles) before deciding to fill up.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I finally trimmed the rear mud flaps. It looks great now, don't know why I waited so long

 

[turbo8]

I finally trimmed the rear mud flaps. It looks great now, don't know why I waited so long

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Looks way better! Did you ever try the bumper filler pieces?

 

[FerrisBueller]

Looks way better! Did you ever try the bumper filler pieces?

Good timing asking about them! After I cut the mud flaps, I was considering the gap. So I prepped and painted the filler pieces. It will take a couple days to fully dry. Those pieces and the DuroBump front bump stops that have also been hanging out in the garage are next on my list.

 

[Casual Cruiser]

Cardboard mock-up of the charcoal canister. The extra flaps on one end show how much extra space is needed for the connections on that end.

Here are the places it definitely will not fit:

Hood won't close:
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@lx200inAR I tried your idea of putting it where the resonator is. It would totally work there, and the side-exit exhaust could turn and immediately end before the tire and work fine, giving lots of room. This is super tempting. There is a problem, though.

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The main problem with this approach is that the spare tire support bracket is in the way and would push the charcoal canister down too far. Think hitting your resonator on rocks is bad? Try hitting your canister on rocks. Still, I'm tempted to try to make it work somehow since all the connections are already back there.

This is how far the tire bracket would push down the canister (I've marked the bracket mounting holes), basically so the frame rail would no longer protect it.

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I see two possible places in the engine bay. The first is on its side in front of the power steering reservoir, which would have to be relocated backwards an inch or so (I think that's what @grinchy did). The other is on top of the main fuse box, perpendicular to it. It appears to fully clear the hood when closed.

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I have a quick question, if you were to put in a one and a half inch body lift would this change being able to fit the charcoal canister in the back?

 

[FerrisBueller]

I have a quick question, if you were to put in a one and a half inch body lift would this change being able to fit the charcoal canister in the back?

Nope. As you can see in this photo of the bracket that is used to install the tank, the subtank is secured to the body, not the frame. So a body lift won't affect the spacing.

 

[Casual Cruiser]

Nope. As you can see in this photo of the bracket that is used to install the tank, the subtank is secured to the body, not the frame. So a body lift won't affect the spacing.

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I gotcha on that. That gets me to thinking. If the sub tank moves up 1 1/2” with a body lift then the spare tire could go up half an inch rather than needing to be lowered an inch with the factory sub tank setup. Also, would the charcoal filter, be able to fit in the side wing behind the tire easier if the body was up an inch and a half? Would that create some more options rather than putting it under the hood? I know you mentioned the fit was tight with your bumper set up. I’m just thinking with the body lift that might create enough space for the charcoal canister to fit behind the rear wheel. What are your thoughts?

 

[FerrisBueller]

I gotcha on that. That gets me to thinking. If the sub tank moves up 1 1/2” with a body lift then the spare tire could go up half an inch rather than needing to be lowered an inch with the factory sub tank setup. Also, would the charcoal filter, be able to fit in the side wing behind the tire easier if the body was up an inch and a half? Would that create some more options rather than putting it under the hood? I know you mentioned the fit was tight with your bumper set up. I’m just thinking with the body lift that might create enough space for the charcoal canister to fit behind the rear wheel. What are your thoughts?

I like your idea. Having a 1 1/2" body lift would help alleviate a lot of issues in general. It would provide a lot more routing space between the body and the frame rails + crossmember for the hoses (that space is extremely cramped). It would also allow, as you point out, having the spare tire remain in its current position, which avoids having to mash up the metal guide bracket for the spare tire lowering winch mechanism (the holes don't line up perfectly when the spare tire goes up or down, even with the "correct" replacement guide). And finally, as you point out, it would give a lot more room in the rear wing behind the tire (for LC, not so much for LX) - and with an OEM bumper I think this would give enough space for mounting the canister there and have a reasonable bend radius for the hoses to/from it (and with the extra clearance for routing hoses, I don't think there would be any problems getting those hoses through that area). Note that if you put the canister in the wing behind the wheel, then the small filter box can actually attach to the same bolt location that is present for the upper filler neck mounting location (this is originally where I had planned to put mine, you would just have to straighten out the filter's 90-degree bracket).

 

[FerrisBueller]

I gotta catch up to the subtank install by @FerrisBueller what happened there champ?

Ha, you have quite the timing with that question. I've gone nearly a year with no problems ... And then yesterday I got my first check engine light. The codes were just saying the vapor flow was incorrect (i.e., related to the charcoal canister). I already know the fix that will work (it's the same fix that will cure most of the small quirks all at once).

I'm just not super motivated, since using these barbed hose fittings means that disconnecting them is destructive to the hoses. I would redo most of the hoses + fittings of I can find non-barb fittings.

False alarm. The evap code ended up being that my wife hadn't screwed in the gas cap (like at all, it was just sitting there loose in its place)

ACGC
(Always Check the Gas Cap)

Still, I have today and tomorrow off, so I'm going to try to fix the filter neck vent problem that stops the main tank from filling once the subtank is full.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I'm going to put a T fitting here so that the main tank can vent straight to the filler neck at the same time as the subtank, instead of the original way where the main tank vents serially to the subtank which then vents to the neck.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Success! Put in the T fitting so each tank can vent independently when filling up. Then I immediately went and filled up and both tanks topped up no problem. I'll wait a few more fill ups before I declare it 100% fixed.

 

[grinchy]

Success! Put in the T fitting so each tank can vent independently when filling up. Them I immediately went and filled up and both tanks topped up no problem. I'll wait a few more fill ups before I declare it 100% fixed.

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Nice!

 

[AnyMal]

Success! Put in the T fitting so each tank can vent independently when filling up. Them I immediately went and filled up and both tanks topped up no problem. I'll wait a few more fill ups before I declare it 100% fixed.

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man i love a mud member who actually puts in work. thank you