Fender trimming and..... (1 Viewer)

[r2m]

Has anybody out there done any/some/all of the these:
- trimmed their fenders for larger tires.
- pulled them out to be able to stuff larger tires without having to use longer bump stops. This is done much like the little prerunner trucks do with their rear fenders.
- purchased off road fender flares. Either US or outside the US, like Japan. And if so, did you trim your fenders up?
- are there any prerunner style bulged-out front fender replacements?

Basically, I'm looking at probably doing a Slee 2.5" with a spacer for a total of about 3.5" of lift. I'd like to run 36" or 37" tires, again probably Interco SSR radials.

If I could find the right flare, I could use slightly offset rims, trim the fenders up to the attaching point of the flare, and be able to go lock to lock on a full stuff.

Anybody, including MOT have any info on any of this? Or am I in a dream state, in which case, somebody pinch me!

 

[Bighead]

Sounds like you want all the same mods the long-travel Tacoma guys use.

Still plan on using stock axles?

 

[r2m]

Sounds like you want all the same mods the long-travel Tacoma guys use.

Still plan on using stock axles?

If there were oversized fenders available, I'd use the longer axles and get more front travel. But, there aren't any long axle kits for the uzj100's but if one could find larger fenders, one could mount some wheels with less back spacing and larger tires with the 3.5" total lift.

 

[2000UZJ]

Order those attic truck flares and there you go....

 

[1loudLX]

...I might have some in the basement.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

total of about 3.5" of lift.

Not possible on the front.

 

[bamachem]

Has anybody out there done any/some/all of the these:
- trimmed their fenders for larger tires.
- pulled them out to be able to stuff larger tires without having to use longer bump stops. This is done much like the little prerunner trucks do with their rear fenders.
- purchased off road fender flares. Either US or outside the US, like Japan. And if so, did you trim your fenders up?
- are there any prerunner style bulged-out front fender replacements?

Basically, I'm looking at probably doing a Slee 2.5" with a spacer for a total of about 3.5" of lift. I'd like to run 36" or 37" tires, again probably Interco SSR radials.

If I could find the right flare, I could use slightly offset rims, trim the fenders up to the attaching point of the flare, and be able to go lock to lock on a full stuff.

Anybody, including MOT have any info on any of this? Or am I in a dream state, in which case, somebody pinch me!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/194513-arctic-truck-100-series.html

That's as close as you're going to get. You won't get 3.5" out of the suspension, but you can do a couple inches of body lift for the rest.

 

[r2m]

I am diametrically opposed to body lifts! The last thing I want to do is raise my CG without getting anything other than tire clearance in return.

I've rolled two vehicles, one was on accout of a high center of gravity. I'd rather start gouging out fenders!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I am diametrically opposed to body lifts!

ME TOO...and for a TON of other reasons.

 

[2000UZJ]

Hey look, it's the fuzz!

fender trimming and...fender trimming and.....installing chrome rims

 

[bamachem]

I am diametrically opposed to body lifts! The last thing I want to do is raise my CG without getting anything other than tire clearance in return.

I've rolled two vehicles, one was on accout of a high center of gravity. I'd rather start gouging out fenders!

And what does doing a suspension lift on an IFS rig do after you add several inches of tire diameter? You lose droop, but gain very little upwards travel, and quite possibly zero, upon the compression of the suspension. The only thing it allows is *tire clearance* and the use of stiffer springs when you add weight.

If you're opposed to a body lift, then you can forget running 37/38's on an IFS Toyota. Save up your nickels for a SAS or get another platform if you plan on running big wide tires w/o a body lift.

Education time:

Using a 2" suspension lift in combination with a 2" body lift does NOT raise the center of gravity more than 4" of suspension lift! Think about it. What does the frame/engine/drivetrain/axles weigh in comparison to the body and interior? 2X? 3X? Somewhere in that neighborhood...

Now, take the weight and multiply by the distance SQUARED for the torsional effect.

To put into algebraic terms, let's say X is 1000-lbs. Frame/drivetrain, etc is 4X, body is 2X. Relatively speaking, use 20" as the center of mass for the Frame/Drivetrain and 30" for the height/COM of the body/interior.

For a STOCK TRUCK, the COG number is:

4X(20^2) + 2X(30^2) = 1600X + 1800X = 3400X

2" suspension and 2" body lift, plus 2" additional tire lift (4" overall diameter) the equation is:

4X(24^2) + 2X(36^2) = 2304X + 2592X = 4896X

But for a 4" suspension ONLY lift, plus 2" additional tire lift (4" overall diameter) the equation is:

4X(26^2) + 2X(36^2) = 2704X + 2592X = 5296X

As you can see, the tipping factor is nearly 10% higher if you do a suspension-only lift compared to splitting the lift among suspension and body mounts. This is because the suspension-only lift applies all 6" of increased height to nearly every ounce of mass that comprises the truck. However, if a body lift is used for some of the effect, then only 4" is applied to the heaviest part, and the remaining 2" of lift is applied to the much-lighter body.

In other words, if you rolled a truck that had a body lift, it wasn't JUST because of the body lift, but more due to poor driving, going too fast for the conditions/terrain, the soft suspension (probably stock), etc. If you do a body lift on a heavy truck, you really need springs with a higher rate in order to lessen body roll. If your goal is to have 37" tires on a UZJ with little to no lift (2.5" or less), then you need to invest in a sawsall, a torch, and get a beater because the results are NOT going to be pretty.

When you combine a body lift with quality springs whose rates are properly matched to the weight and application, then you can get excellent results.

 

[r2m]

Very eloquently laid out. Thank you for the pointed lesson of CG.
I am actually very well aware of the “cost” of raising a vehicle in regard of suspension vs. body lift. And I truly appreciate the time and effort of your example.

I guess to verbalize my issues with body lifts are several fold. First I hate the way they look if the are too high. I think it looks stupid to see several inches of frame with the body all jacked up. I think of what a lot of people do to those Hummer H2’s. They jack ‘em all up and they still have only about 7 or 8 inches of ground clearance. Second, is that if I have to lift a vehicle, I at least want to get more ground clearance to be able to go over bigger things.

Regarding my roll over’s. The first was a brand new stock (6 month old) Subaru back in ’86. My wife and I were pushed into a curb at abut 45 mph at an angle from another car. Needless to say, their fault. The second was 4 years ago two days before climbing Mt Whitney. I spent the night acclimatizing at Portal and was coming down to Lone Pine to meet up with my wife and daughter for breakfast (they were slumming it in a motel whilst I was enjoying a night out under the stars). I driving through the Alabama hills with my expo F350, I wasn’t paying too close attention, and went wide on a sweeping left hander. My right rear wheel went off into the shoulder (which was like soft beach sand) and pitched my skidding sideways just before I went into three quarter roll. Two things in retrospect that could have kept me from rolling; one is too much weight on top e.g. spare tire, HiLift, ammo boxes with recovery gear, etc. The second was that I had Rancho 9000 shocks with on board compressor and remote adjustment. I had the shocks on the softest setting, which helped with the moment of inertia axially.
Anyways, God is good, I only got a scratch on my left hand, climbed Whitney in 17.5 hrs straight (2:15am to 7:45pm) and 4 years later got my own hundy!

 

[bamachem]

Good to hear that you came out of both without injury.

Didn't mean to come across as an ass, in case I did. If so, my apologies.

On the weight up top, that's a KEY factor in considering the tipping factor of a rig. When you place 100-lbs on the roof of a truck (assume a height of 86" or 7-feet) when compared to being at the frame height of 20", then the mass can have a HUGE effect on vehicle stability.

Spare and Jack at frame = 20*20*100 = 40,000
Sprare and Jack on Roof = 86*86*100 = 739,600

WTF???? That's a difference of more than 1800%!

Weight matters, but placement of the weight matters MORE.

Best of luck with your search!

 

[wildsmith]

I run 36"x12.5" Simex on OEM 16" alloys (so stock spacing) and at full lock they rub the frame, upper suspension arm and the anti-roll bar. I have trimmed the pinch weld behind the wheel and flattened it and clearance is minimal. Spacers to fix the rubbing will move the tyre closer to that joint ? My next move would be to cut the whole corner off and put a flat plate across to be able to use spacers and start thinking about 37x12.5 but I also have a 40mm body lift giving me a little more room there. Besides tyre clearance, the BL let me lift front and rear bumpers 40mm so much better approach / departure angles and lifts the fuel tank which was getting pretty battered and sliders raised so somewhat improved break over angle. A pure suspension lift would be better but then driveability might be getting to the point you might as well put a SFA under there

 

[r2m]

wildsmith, I wanna see some photos with those 36er's!! Do you have any to post? Preferably nice side shots on level ground to get the full effect.

 

[wildsmith]

Don't know if I have flat ground side on pics, a quick scan found these:

I'll see what else I've got.

 

[farinvail]

That may be the best looking 100 I've ever seen. Well built without all the silly extra stuff.

 

[1loudLX]

That may be the best looking 100 I've ever seen. Well built without all the silly extra stuff.

yeah, i really like that one....too bad the steering wheel is on the wrong side.

 

[farinvail]

What are you talking about it looks on the right side to me?

 

[1loudLX]

Your wife has brain washed you.