That may be the best looking 100 I've ever seen. Well built without all the silly extra stuff.
Agreed. Great looking rig. Almost makes me want to consider a body lift then have Mike at BIOR make the bumpers to fit up higher.
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That may be the best looking 100 I've ever seen. Well built without all the silly extra stuff.
r2m said:One last thing, what kind of snorkel is that? I like the lower profile than the Safari ones.
Awesome looking rig wildsmith!
Ok, ok, I’m starting to be a believer on body lifts, little ones though......
If only the body lift manufacturers paid enough attention to the 100 series, maybe there would be an aftermarket body lift for the hundy by now...but oh well atleast OME gives a 2-3" suspension lift
Get a sheet of 1" or 1.5" thick HDPE or UHMW and a 2" to 2.5" diameter hole saw. Or, just buy a pack of Sher-wood hockey pucks. Yes, I said HOCKEY PUCKS - extremely tough and durable, and just the right size... You'll need to stop by a fastener shop and get some longer body mount bolts, but that's easy too.
Loosen the steering shaft bolt, then loosen all the body mount bolts on the body. Take the nuts off the driver side, put a 2X4 on a shop jack, and lift the body up about 3". Insert pucks, new bolts, and lower down. Put nuts loosely on new bolts, then do the other side. When done, tighten all nuts/bolts on the body and tighten up steering shaft bolt.
You might have to adjust the shift linkage, but that's it.
Yes, it's THAT easy.
PM Spressomon... He sells the body lift pucks you need and they come with instructions... His pucks add 12mm of lift IIRC...
The tyres are 12.5" wide, Simex Extreme Trekkers. Snorkel is TJM Airtec like 2000UZJ said. The rack is some home made tubing wrapped around Rhino bars and feet.
I did update the BL thread with this but when I got round to lowering the radiator it was pretty easy so a > 16mm body lift can be done without hacking the fan shroud if you want. Having the bottom of the shroud missing has been very useful for getting the fan off and cleaning out the radiator fins when full of mud thoughI plan to rebuild mine with some thin aluminium plate that I can take off again when needed to maintain that access.
The shifter is an easy adjustment but the steering column does need spacing from about 16mm upwards IMO.
It's just another puck with different holes so very easy to make. I thought I put dimensions of mine and hole PCD in the BL thread, I'll go look for it now.If only we could get a picture of how your spacer looks like for the steering columnjk...was the steering spacer easy to make?
It's just another puck with different holes so very easy to make. I thought I put dimensions of mine and hole PCD in the BL thread, I'll go look for it now.
the swivel recovery points are something I picked up at a show a long time ago and can't remember who made them now sorry![]()
The steering spacer I used is 2 3/4" diameter, 23mm thick, 4 10mm holes on a 53mm PCD.