Feeling every crack with my AHC (1 Viewer)

[128keaton]

I had very harsh ride and a lazy AHC that was holding the truck up fine but was slow in raising and lowering it. Flushing the fluid and cranking the torsion bars helped with the raising and lowering but ride remained harsh. Since I noticed some rust on the AHC lines (nothing was leaking anywhere) and since I had only 5 graduations from low to high, I decided to strip off AHC and put used LC torsion bars, OME rear springs and brand new Toyota shocks ($200 for all 4 shocks!). The shocks cushions (on the top of the shock) and bushings (in the 'eye' of the shocks) were still in once piece but were rock hard. This also gave me about 1.75" lift (almost like riding in High setting with AHC)

After all that my truck started soaking large bumps very well, but the small cracks, bridge joints etc would still not be absorbed. I replaced all 4 front ball joints this week and that ended up making the ride much better. My truck is 20 years old and by all accounts the ball joints were factory original. Once out, the play in the ball joints was scary!

I still feel some imperfections in the road but they don't make the change in my cup holder jingle and don't wake up my babies in the back seat!

I'll have to think about swapping the suspension over to a Land Cruiser setup. It would bother me to no end seeing the unused AHC indicator on the dashboard.

Plus, I get to rag on my cousin's non functional Land Rover air ride suspension

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I'll have to think about swapping the suspension over to a Land Cruiser setup. It would bother me to no end seeing the unused AHC indicator on the dashboard.

Plus, I get to rag on my cousin's non functional Land Rover air ride suspension

Sacrifices we all make!

 

[128keaton]

Sacrifices we all make!

Haha you're not wrong. Definitely an option to look at. My only concern is sourcing the Tbars and coils used. Have not found any in junkyards or really even any within 400 miles on car-part.

 

[Qtonic]

I replaced all 4 front ball joints this week and that ended up making the ride much better. My truck is 20 years old and by all accounts the ball joints were factory original. Once out, the play in the ball joints was scary!

How was the swap process? Did you do it yourself? Remove arms or in place, etc?

Still got mine sitting on the shelf, waiting for some time after I finish my starter.

 

[TXLX100]

Haha you're not wrong. Definitely an option to look at. My only concern is sourcing the Tbars and coils used. Have not found any in junkyards or really even any within 400 miles on car-part.

I'd buy brand new rear coils. Anything used OEM will be 10 years old at least and degraded. Factory is a good option, or tons of soft aftermarket options

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Haha you're not wrong. Definitely an option to look at. My only concern is sourcing the Tbars and coils used. Have not found any in junkyards or really even any within 400 miles on car-part.

Post a wanted ad on classifieds here. Remember to get the parts that go on either side of the torsion bars. Mine were rusted solid to the torsion bars and since I had replacement ones, I just cut them off. Also, get steel washers that go on either side of the two cushions that go on the top of the shocks. They are 4 per corner (16 in total). Factory shocks have only the cushions but no washers and those washers by themselves are about $100 new!!

And get new rear springs. Old Man Emu (OME) has a few different options for about $175 for the pair. It is just not worth buying used OEM springs. But if you insist to buy used OEM springs, buy mine for $85 including shipping

 

[ClassyJalopy]

How was the swap process? Did you do it yourself? Remove arms or in place, etc?

Still got mine sitting on the shelf, waiting for some time after I finish my starter.

It was the worst job I had to do so far. Mostly because everything was rusted solid. If I had to this again, I would definitely cut holes in the rear cargo area floor to make reaching to the rear shocks easier. I had replacement parts for everything so I liberally used the cut off wheel on 4 1/2" grinder.

My thoughts at the time of job: What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

 

[Qtonic]

It was the worst job I had to do so far. Mostly because everything was rusted solid. If I had to this again, I would definitely cut holes in the rear cargo area floor to make reaching to the rear shocks easier. I had replacement parts for everything so I liberally used the cut off wheel on 4 1/2" grinder.

My thoughts at the time of job: What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

Ugh, That looks rough! I meant the ball joints, though. Seeing the other stuff I'm guessing they were also rusted. But how did you do it? Any advice before I start?

 

[128keaton]

Man, I feel lucky buying a southern truck then. Jeeze y'all, that sucks!

Good point with the used springs. OME's options look solid.
I guess it comes down to the Tbars if going to LC suspension.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Ugh, That looks rough! I meant the ball joints, though. Seeing the other stuff I'm guessing they were also rusted. But how did you do it? Any advice before I start?

Oh, the ball joints weren't half as bad. For the top ones I had to take the boots off to get enough purchase to pull the c-clips off. Rented a ball joint pressing tool from OReilly's and there was barely enough room to press out the upper ball joints in situ.

Lower ones took some persuasion to even separate the knuckle from LCA. Put a puller (again rented) on it and tighten it as much as I could, and then give it some righteous smacks with a BFG. Pressing out the lower ball joints wasn't too bad.

 

[128keaton]

Sounds like barring spheres, I could find some decent prices on some parts to replace the AHC. Quick question, if I went with LC suspension and kept everything in place for the AHC, could I go back at some point? I'd remove, cap, and save the fluid rams. I'd probably keep everything else in place as it doesn't bother me.

 

[95Fantasma80]

Sounds like barring spheres, I could find some decent prices on some parts to replace the AHC. Quick question, if I went with LC suspension and kept everything in place for the AHC, could I go back at some point? I'd remove, cap, and save the fluid rams. I'd probably keep everything else in place as it doesn't bother me.

If you decide to keep AHC which is a great system, you should get tech stream to confirm pressures, replace AHC fluid, adjust torsion bars to get front pressure correct, new rear springs.

that's likely under $400 if you DIY

I've done all these minus rear springs and I'm 100% convinced the cracks vibrating through cabin are coming from those needing to be replaced as i drive i feel like the cracks only come from rear and my rear pressures are oit of spec.. of course it could just be ruptured spheres in your case... but eventually new spheres are in order, 15+ years is pretty great longevity.

I'll report back in a few weeks if that did it for me.

Next step is accumalators at $840 - 15% from below link when the next ebay coupon comes out and i confirm the rear springs didn't get me over my comfort threshold.

GENUINE LEXUS LX470 FRONT REAR SUSPENSION ACCUMULATORS SET OF 4 1998~2007 | eBay

 

[128keaton]

If you decide to keep AHC which is a great system, you should get tech stream to confirm pressures, replace AHC fluid, adjust torsion bars to get front pressure correct, new rear springs.

that's likely under $400 if you DIY

I've done all these minus rear springs and I'm 100% convinced the cracks vibrating through cabin are coming from those needing to be replaced as i drive i feel like the cracks only come from rear... of course it could just be ruptured spheres in your case... but eventually new spheres are in order, 15+ years is pretty great longevity.

I'll report back in a few weeks if that did it for me.

Next step is accumalators at $840 - 15% from below link when the next ebay coupon comes out and i confirm the rear springs didn't get me over my confort threshold.

GENUINE LEXUS LX470 FRONT REAR SUSPENSION ACCUMULATORS SET OF 4 1998~2007 | eBay

I have done everything (flush, adjusting front pressures, etc) aside from rear springs and new accumulators. Pretty excited to tear into the new system armed with some accumulators, if I can get some in good shape.

I think my fluid was contaminated with PS fluid, causing the spheres to degrade.

 

[Qtonic]

I got some new oem accumulators. I haven't tested extensively since other work is being done, but initially it was not night-and-day with regard to the road cracks. I've got all the other parts yet to be installed (upper and lower CA bushings and ball joints, sway and link bushings, diff mounts). I'm still hoping for a magic carpet ride by the time I'm done.

Edit: One thing I haven't bought for this one are the various shock cushions. I'm not thrilled about the idea of opening up the system again after installing the accumulators, but it's a thought for anyone considering going down this path. FYI, this may not be much of an option if your rig has corrosion like my 07 does. In that case I had to replace those cushions because one totally failed and I had no choice but to cut the whole shock off. That top nut wasn't going anywhere.

 

[128keaton]

I got some new oem accumulators. I haven't tested extensively since other work is being done, but initially it was not night-and-day with regard to the road cracks. I've got all the other parts yet to be installed (upper and lower CA bushings and ball joints, sway and link bushings, diff mounts). I'm still hoping for a magic carpet ride by the time I'm done.

Yeah I'm semi worried I'm opening up a maintenance catchup can of worms. Thanks for this info

 

[Qtonic]

True, but if it needs to be done, then it needs to be done. If you swap suspension but still need the ball joints or bushings, etc, then I think you'll still be disappointed.

Some guesses: Your accumulators are worn but not ruptured. My 98 215k were not. Unfortunately I did not do a grad test since I knew I was going to replace anyway.

Though it sucks, it's possible you have both accumulators and other parts to worry about at the same time like I seem to. If I were you, I'd jack up a wheel and look for excess play at various parts with a pry bar. If you find for sure that ball joints or whatever need attention, then maybe start there if you can't do everything at once. That way you service things that need to be done regardless of your future suspension choice.

Regarding AHC though, I think there has never been a better time to have it, especially on a rig without much corrosion. @PADDO and others have disseminated a ton of info that even good dealers don't know, now others can help pass it along. Prices on components have come way down thanks to the Japan seller and ebay discount, among others. You get a lift on command and a better ride regardless. There are options to help carry more weight if eventually needed.

I understand needing to prioritize, but there are costs associated with any path forward on a 20 year rig. I vote keep it while trying to be smart about the parts that will do the most good immediately, which you seem to be doing. But I'm in the same boat, so can't say for sure. If you want to wait a week or two, I can report how much the replaced rubber bits make.

 

[LXstatic]

Dude, get these...For Sale - AHC PARTS - Accumulators

 

[LXstatic]

Dude, get these...
For Sale - AHC PARTS - Accumulators

 

[PADDO]

I have given away sets of newer accumulators that returned 9 graduations for free as, as far as I’m concerned, at that point they are approaching the end of their service life and are only worth something to someone who has flat or blown dampers (4-7 grads). Worthless to me. I’d encourage anyone contemplating buying takeoff dampers to establish their age and how many graduations they returned in the L to H check prior to removal. You’d also want to establish the base AHC system knowledge of the seller and their attitude towards maintenance and fluid changes. You really don’t have an idea of the state of their remaining charge until fitted and you may well be replacing semi worn out with completely worn out.

 

[128keaton]

Dude, get these...
For Sale - AHC PARTS - Accumulators

I'm unable to afford those quite this second, moving into a new house at the end of January.
A bit worried about dropping $400 on used accumulators with ~40k less miles than my own. I'll keep my eyes peeled on the classifieds, thanks!