Builds Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE

[2fpower]

Not sure on ID yet. Need to acquire the Tacoma neck still... need to figure out year of truck bed to get that. Figure it is a 95-00, but not sure.
if that is right, then Spectra Premium FN916 is the one I need.

 

[StucknKS]

Not sure if this helps but according to this a 95 to 04 are roughly the same.

20 Years of the Toyota Tacoma and Beyond: A Look Through the Years

And glancing through CL I didn't see a noticeable difference in tail lights.

 

[StucknKS]

Not sure if this helps but according to this a 95 to 04 are roughly the same.

20 Years of the Toyota Tacoma and Beyond: A Look Through the Years

And glancing through CL I didn't see a noticeable difference in tail lights.

And after looking more I see that there are different part numbers for 1995-2000 and 2001-2004.

 

[2fpower]

And after looking more I see that there are different part numbers for 1995-2000 and 2001-2004.

yep, they look very different...

 

[2fpower]

Got all the slider mounting points fabricated and mounted up. Looks like there's a good leak in the rear of the transfer case, so cleaned it up and got the parts to put a new seal in. Easier to do now before I put the center skid plate in.

 

[2fpower]

Finished the foam installation of the sound deadening In the cab. And in doors we installed really thick rubber sound deadening mat.

 

[2fpower]

Well what are interesting weekend. I had secured approval from the Mrs. to spend most of the time in the garage over the weekend. Had some big goals. Well, then mother nature showed up and took the power out on Friday evening storm. Sitting here on Monday morning still without power. So work in the shop was handtools only and only when the sun was shining. I do have a generator but it won't run the air compressor or welder. That at least gave me some extra lighting. The good news is that we got the car running! Started right up and took a drive around the yard. No brakes yet of course, so that made it a little more interesting. Started putting together the new front axle too. Hopefully get that in next few days. Also, put the transfer case tail housing bearings and seals replaced and back togethe. Josh was able to get the tuffy box in, the rear glass installed, sound deadening finished, carpet in, winch plasti -dipped, and a number of other things.

 

[2fpower]

I just want to post this up as it may help people that want to Tuffy box install. The bad thing with the Tuffy box is that it's so long that your middle seats will not flip forward. In the ute situation the roll cage was hitting the door so I had to move the Tuffy forward. I found that was able to gain almost an inch by adapting the cupholder . Just bending it sharper on the rear side, and inverting the angle that lines up with the center console on the front side.

 

[2fpower]

one bit of bad news is that when we drove the rig, we confirmed that the AC did not work. Will order some new parts and hopefully get it working.

 

[2fpower]

Got the front axle rebuild done, all new bearings, seals, brake lines, rotors, hundred series pads .

oh, and fender flares on too....

 

[Grant Woodbridge]

Awesome build. Thanks for sharing.

 

[2fpower]

for reference brake soft lines added for lift:

h380535 rear
h380233 left front
h621096 right front

 

[2fpower]

Want to get a plan on the wiring for the rear window on the sequoia. Basically, the computer on the sequoia is too difficult to figure out, so I am going to just hard wire it to a switch.... I found this when looking at how to do a 4runner rear window in similar wiring.


If repairing the relay is too daunting a task, or you have tried and it did not work, another option is to eliminate the relay altogether. To do this, simply wire the motor to a switch. You need to use a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch. This type of switch will have a center off position and two momentary on positions to either side (On-Off-On). Wire the two common terminals to the rear window motor and then connect one side to power-ground and the other side to ground-power. This way in one position the motor terminals have power-ground and the motor runs one direction. In the other switch position, the motor polarity will be reversed (ground-power) and will run the other direction. Note, in doing this, you are bypassing all the safety interlocks, so YOU will have to be operate the window safely.

So, the question I have does anyone know if the antenna switch for our 80's would work for this, and does anyone have a pinout wiring diagram?

@Coolerman

 

[StucknKS]

This is for wiring for the antenna switch for a locker but gives the basic information.

 

[StucknKS]

I also used this info when I had my rear locker hooked up with the antenna switch.

Here is the thread that I found the info.

antennae switch

 

[2fpower]

The confusing part to me is that I only have two wires at the motor for the window. Well, I should say that is what I think I have, there are other wires, but I thought they were for other purposes. To go up you wire postive to wire 1 and negative to wire 2. To go down, you swap them.

So for wiring, I need to have a double pole momentary switch or a relay setup to do that. On the winch diagram and the lockers, it looks like separate wires for separate operations. Am I reading this wrong?

 

[2fpower]

could it be so easy that just the dpdt switch would do everything for me?

 

[StucknKS]

could it be so easy that just the dpdt switch would do everything for me?
View attachment 1482855

I'm guessing it just depends on how much power the switch is rated for. I know that is why I used relays for the locker but obviously the locker should require more power than the window.

 

[StucknKS]

This is for wiring for the antenna switch for a locker but gives the basic information.

View attachment 1482767

And just noting that I said locker but the diagram is actually for a winch. I basically just used the same schematic for the locker.

 

[2fpower]

hmmmm.. good point on the power needs. not sure what the draw is on a window motor.