Builds Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE (5 Viewers)

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Here is the question I have for @jcardona1 or @MODist @FJZilla or anyone that has done the rear wheel clearance modification on an 80.

If you had a blank slate, knowing that someday 37's would be used, how big of a wheel well would you make? Wider/taller, what would you want?

I'm pretty happy with the way I cut my rear fenders. The lip of the fender is flush with the top of the wheel wheel. And the amount I cut is the maximum you could cut without going into the door opening. I think my rear fenders will allow for a decent amount of up-travel. I would prefer to have more down travel out of the rear suspension than up-travel into the fenders to be honest. The stock 4 link doesn't allow for much movement once you 3-link the front.
 
I think what @jcardona1 is really saying is that you need to 3-link this front and rear and do Hellfire Knuckles and an axle truss system while you still have it all apart............
 
I think what @jcardona1 is really saying is that you need to 3-link this front and rear and do Hellfire Knuckles and an axle truss system while you still have it all apart............

Waiting for the corporate sponsorship…… Please send us free parts. Insert shameless plug here.
 
The rear wheel wells accept 37s pretty easily once you remove the lip around the fender. Even if a tire rubs its usually at the top of the fender or inside on the body. If you wanted to lengthen the opening an inch or two it couldn't hurt, but probably isn't necessary for 37s unless you are trying to do it with very little lift.
 
The rear wheel wells accept 37s pretty easily once you remove the lip around the fender. Even if a tire rubs its usually at the top of the fender or inside on the body. If you wanted to lengthen the opening an inch or two it couldn't hurt, but probably isn't necessary for 37s unless you are trying to do it with very little lift.

Sounds like what I was thinking, it would be a whole lot less work to add 3 inches at the door jam, instead of cut the entire lip area off to gain that much room.

Figure I will add similar space to the wheelwell too while I am at it.
 
Pulled out the exhaust, ebrake cable, driveline. Still need to pull the rear brake lines and then... (drum roll please) time to start cutting the frame....


Stay tuned.
 
Step one was to level out the frame. Decided to level side to side and front to back. Side to side was easy, front and back I had to assume one part was level. made the assumption the center part of the frame is straight under the driver and passenger area. The reason I did this four way level - against what I originally planned - was that I realized the rear most part of the frame was angling up ( when I originally just leveled side to side and front to back) so if I were to Cut the frame and move it back 9 inches it need to be higher to be at the same plane. Then I wielded some drops on the very rear most of the frame for a reference point.
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Next was to cut out the rear LCA mounts. The frame extension center point is right under the middle of these. Before cutting them off I drilled two reference holes through the LCA and the frame so I can get them back in the exact same position. The Mount will also act like a fish plate for the new frame joint
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I think I passed the point of no return.
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Here's how I did the frame cut.
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By the end of the day had all of the inner structure installed, all of the plug holes cut and everything ready for welding.
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Some quick notes here, if I do this again I would have pulled the exhaust , Driveshaft, emergency brake cable out much sooner much easier to work without them there.
 
Some quick notes here, if I do this again I would have pulled the exhaust , Driveshaft, emergency brake cable out much sooner much easier to work without them there.
Something tells me you will definitely do this again...
 
Made some metal hot last night.
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Glad u got a bigger welder now? I hardly ever get to turn mine up
 
Glad u got a bigger welder now? I hardly ever get to turn mine up

Miller 210 still. Yeah, hottest I typically run is level 5 heat. Nick turned it up to max of 7 and made it look easy! I have learned when a pro can make something look easy, there is a level of skill involoved that is not easy to attain.
 
This is lookin sick! Looks like everything got burned in nice and hot! Weld's pass my CWI inspection, from afar, minus the spatter buy a wire wheel takes care of all that! Lol can't wait to see this beast done!
 
Burnt in the replacement frame sections. Really just a cover for the structural inner sleeve. Started with the inner skin and was able to weld it on all four sides and then put on the outer skin welding it again on all four sides.

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