Fast clicking - no start...diagnosis? (2 Viewers)

[Kurosawa]

Update - now solved, time for a new starting battery!

Hey everyone, I could use some input. 81,000 miles and fast clicking but no start when pressing the ignition button. This is after three months of garage storage on a tender so the battery is strong, lights bright ect. Am I looking at the same starter issue others have had, or should I look elsewhere first, like a relay? This seems especially soon for a failed starter after viewing dozens of threads on those...any ideas or am I destined to lay under my vehicle for 7-8 hours like many before me?

 

[TheIcemanCometh]

I would start with the battery. Even on tender and lights coming on there may not be enough for the starter. I would try to either jump it or take the battery to parts shop and have them test it.

 

[GrouchyTech]

Give it a jump

 

[Fj80oregon]

I had a tender on a truck also and same scenario, tested voltage with a multimeter and was low. I think if your connection isn’t solid the tenders can default or do some wonky stuff.

 

[Heckraiser]

Battery. When the starter goes out, it won't do squat, you won't even get the clicks.

 

[Adrenaline6]

Yup...fast clicking on start is a tell tale for not enough juice from the battery.

 

[Kurosawa]

You all were correct, once it got a full jolt from my NOCO jumper it started right up.

The NOCO need to be charged itself or I might have tried it immediately but in the meantime I was questioning the bright headlights and went down a different path than I typically would beginning to worry it was the solenoid or relay. I guess once disconnected from the battery tender the starting battery lost voltage very quickly.

Thanks guys, glad it was an easy solve!

 

[GrouchyTech]

You all were correct, once it got a full jolt from my NOCO jumper it started right up.

The NOCO need to be charged itself or I might have tried it immediately but in the meantime I was questioning the bright headlights and went down a different path than I typically would beginning to worry it was the solenoid or relay. I guess once disconnected from the battery tender the starting battery lost voltage very quickly.

Thanks guys, glad it was an easy solve!

Your LEDs headlights will appear to be “normal bright” even with low battery voltage.

 

[kcjaz]

Get a battery tester. I carry small Topdon testers (cheap but work well) with all my Nocos.

https://a.co/d/1kD9huM

 

[Kurosawa]

Get a battery tester. I carry small Topdon testers (cheap but work well) with all my Nocos.

https://a.co/d/1kD9huM

Yes, a load tester would have called this out immediately. I just pulled it off the charger again and checked the voltage 12.74 then checked as I attempted to start dropped to less than 8 volts. Thanks for the link, handy thing to have for sure.

 

[LTSR]

Yes, a load tester would have called this out immediately. I just pulled it off the charger again and checked the voltage 12.74 then checked as I attempted to start dropped to less than 8 volts. Thanks for the link, handy thing to have for sure.

My original Panasonic 12v recently gave up and I had the exact same symptoms as you. I purchased a new battery a few days ago, 27F from Costco. You're probably going to run into this as well, my rear cross traffic alert wasn't working. I'll save you some time: Reverse camera wheel turn guide lines error - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/reverse-camera-wheel-turn-guide-lines-error.1120986/